Mykeys Toy

I know It is a bad time to suggest this but Rob (Turbone) may have one. You might aslo check with Qman, thought I have know idea what his work schedule is.

if you can wait I know there a few locals that may have one dont buy electronics because if that isnt the problem you can treturn them.

I will venture a guess at either the coil or the goodies inside the disty are toast. I have no spares to lend you to check otherwise I'd hook you up.

I am on vacation for the week so I am trying to get as much done on my Brat as possible. I need to get bushings ( control arm, Radius rod, strut bar etc. I want it all so I can have an almost new car feel ) and such b4 I worry about the struts and am having trouble locating any let alone locally. Oh...I bought an engine last fall from MTNsubaru and finally got it in last weekend. Finished plugging everthing in yesterday. Borrowed a coil from my hatch and fired it up after sitting for 6 years. Started right away with a little gas down the carb.. But without the Y pipe it sounds like a bloody loud tractor. I will deal with the accelerator pump later(its shot) Mike

Excellent write up. I had been working on rewiring my headlights and few other things for a few days (when time allowed), trying to figure out what needed to be changed for a ground trigger. I got the idea from Danielsterns about halfway down the page there is a nice diagram. http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html Mike

For those that need it here is a link it also gives very basic driving directions. http://www.co.grays-harbor.wa.us/info/ORV/index.asp Mike

I just saw you the other day and mentioned none of it.. you got me.

Hmmm. I think I can. Will have to wait and see. Thank you gentlemen for the work involved for putting up another show. Mike

The GM conversion is reaaly simple. The only two things that make it easier are a drill press and a die grinder. Just a couple pics http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=191 Mike

You will need to cut into the console for a din to fit otherwise you are stuck with a tape deck..The alternative is to get one of the decks made for old cars they have a lot of options and can add a disc changer as well. the draw back is that they are pricey.

Thanks fellas. I will have to see about getting in touch with you or Rob after the weekend I have to work through it anyway. Have a great Turkey day if I don't make it back on the board. Mike

First off engine and tranny from 86 hatch are stock. If I am trying to get a flywheel to swap in for minimal downtime. Which one(s) should I be looking at. There seems to be a difference between early EA81 and later models for clutch size. Do I need an exact match or does it matter? Will an EA82 flywheel/clutch fit without using a 5speed dual range? Mike

Some different ideas I got from a car audio board. 1) http://www.b-quiet.com/ 2) http://www.fatmat.com/Rattle%20Trap/index.htm 3) http://quietsolution.stores.yahoo.net/testsection.html The only problem with this one is that he doesn't always have it on ebay. 4) http://feedback.ebay.com/ws1/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback&userid=raam&iid=5714336757&frm=284

I think you need to repaint the hatch so it doesn't get jealous being the only one not in the pics.

I don't have JL or Infinity but I do know where you can get a pair of barely used and good condition MB Quart subs in small sealed boxes. and an amp or two. I would say they are between the Infinity and JL in volume and clarity. You might also look into Image Dynamics. The ID and IDQs are both good subs. They are designed to for small sealed as in .4-.75 cubic feet. IMHO they are better in SQ than JL and stilll get plenty loud for around $100-130 each.Ebay is good for those though.

My dad's old 81 and my 86 hatch both had 4 1/2" speakers in the back. Dropped right in no mods.

Looking good so far Brian.

All the alt needs to fit is a piece of metal about 2 1/2 by 2 1/2" and two holes. The tricky part is placing the piece under the original alt bracket and lining everything up for the holes. With a little help it was about a 15 minute project.

Just a bump.

This belongs to a co-worker. He says it starts and idles but when the gas is applied the timing jumps and it dies. He said the timing belts were replaced ans well as the disty. What can cause this particular issue? I can't seem to get him on here he thinks we have to be suby freaks to go to a suby board for info and help.. I suppose that is part true.

You get what you pay for with sound deadening. On the other hand when you go to apply it most caraudio guy will use at least two layers. That will cost you at least $200 with Dynamat. This is what I use http://www.fatmat.com/fatmat/bulk/100ft.htm It comes out to like 125 shipped.

The wait is over. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=191

Sorry guys I dropped the ball. I will try to get the pic up anyway for the ones that don't have a mysterious (fixed itself) noise.

Oil pressure guage?

There is a resistor nesxt to the coil that if removed or goes bad will cause that kind of interference. It has one small black wire and the screw that grounds it.