beauregaardhooligan

Well, I took a 2nd look. Turbone, you probably saved me a bunch of headache! There is oil all around the turbo on the intake side. When I asked the guy where all the oil came from, he denied there was any oil! Like I don't have any eyes in my head. As I started to undo the aif-filter box, he stopped me and said there were fragile parts in there and he wouldn't let me open it. duh I told him never mind and walked away. Too bad, it was a cute little bugger!

Well, I took it for a spin and it runs really well. The guy runs a parts store so he couldn't be gone long and we didn't go far, but there was no smoke or hesitation at all. Seemed to pull well. I saw 60 in 3rd with no trouble. When we got back, I let it idle for awhile, and the temp stayed just below 1/2 way. The ECS light was on the whole time, what is that, emission control system? Would the muffler being gone make it be on? It *does* have the Electronic Height Control, but it appears to be disconnected. I searched, but couldn't find much about it. How is it supposed to work? The clutch has a lot of travel, but didn't slip. The adjustment nut seemed to have some left, showed just under 2 inches of rod used. Thanks again, ya'll!

I really appreciate the responses, fellas! As I have zip experience with turbos, they are what concerns me the most. Are there any fer-shure dead give-aways of a problem with the turbo? I'm always hearing about them running hot and burning the turbo bearings.

...4dr, 5spd with the selector on top of the shift knob. Straight body with no dings or obvious rust. Moon roof, digi-dash, p/w, etc. 152K for $1495. Is that a fair price? I heard it run, sounded good, no smoke. Haven't driven it yet, I need to find out more about these, what to look out for and so forth. Would that be the viscous center dif? I didn't see a locking switch. There was some oil on the top of the motor, but nothing dripping underneath. Needs an exhaust pipe at least from the rear axles back, is that where the muffler goes? All opinions and advice gratefully accepted.

jjbboonnee, Welcome to the board! Don't wate any more time or money on an almost 20 year old radiator, just get a new one. It'll save you much heartache down the trail. Especially where your planning to go. Do flush the engine and heater core thoroughly before installing the new radiator. I recommend a *T* type connection in the heater hose that allows you to connect a garden hose to the system. This will allow a positive flush. Also, when flushing, take the lower radiator hose loose to drain the system. The little drain petcocks are too restrictive and can retain crud. I also prefer the heavy-duty flush that you put in and run for 3-6 hours as opposed to the 15-20 min solutions. Sounds like a fun trip, keep us informed!

Rain-X works wonders.

One of the 1st things I learned about our Subarus is how picky they are about their fuel filters. Replace it right away just to be sure. It really sounds like an ignition timing issue to me, though. Give it as much advance as it'll take without pinging under load. Oh, yeah. Welcome to the board!

Mechanically speaking, all that can be fixed or replaced. Rust is what you gotta look for, especially on the sub-frames where the front-end attaches. That is the weak spot and once it goes, it'll never be the same without spending more than it's worth. Oh, yeah. Welcome to the board!

Ya'll, I'm ashamed. I know better, and I feel badly. Please forgive me. General Disorder, I apologize. Let's call a cease-fire. The shadow is correct. We need to stick together and share our knowledge. shadow, Thanks for the shot of sanity. I had a bad week, but that's no excuse, just a reason. C150L, sorry for trampling on your post. Let's return to the subject. Will you tell us how you intend to provide 2 discrete sparks per cylinder?

My Mozilla Firefox opened it in a new window without a size problem, just incredibly slow to load on dial-up.

I sit corrected, Thanks, AKIRA!

corporal chaos, I've had it with your pompousness, and won't try to reason with you again. You're not the only one who went to school, and implying that I did'nt is incredibly arrogant *and* an insult. One of the moderators should spank you. Unless you have some real, hands-on experience in the matter you're just blowing hot air. You, sir, may stick it where the light doesn't shine and STFU. I believe in what I can show to be true, and this lunch wasn't free. It cost me $30. I stand by my statements because I can demonstrate them, but I won't waste my time on ludites anymore.

Thanks, Adam! I was wondering! If it *is* the Justy, avoid the automatics like the plague.

Thanks! No offense intended.

What do you want for the spare dual intake, carbs, and heads? Are the heads push-rod or hydraulic? Did your Brat come with the 5 speed Hi-Lo trany, or did you put it in? ByTheWay, they would be "Japanees" dealers.

Weellll, since it's *magic,* sure, that'll do it! lol Seriously, if you can provide two completely independent sparks, it surely will create more power. I doubt it would be cost-effective, though. shadow, since I was the 1st one to mention spark plug gap, it's fairly obvious your statements were aimed at my comments, but Thanks, I appreciate your concern. When I 1st put the Accel on FERTHER, I kept the stock gap of .035 and still noticed an improvement right away. The next time I put in new plugs I opened them up to .045 and enjoyed even more improvement. As a matter of fact, I *did* think more gap would be better, so I tried .055 in my cast iron /6, but it actually made FURTHER lose power . I set the gap back to .045 and all is well. For the record, based on my real-world experience, I believe that an Accel(or any other high output coil) installed on a new condition motor of the same vintage *will* show measurable improvement. No *magic* involved.

Shadow, have you tried a higher voltage coil? My stock coils were in good shape and not misfiring. I do see the benefits I describe, nor are there holes in my pistons. If higher voltage coils don't work better, then why are all new cars using them?

I disagree with the general, more spark will provide more power by burning the fuel more completely. Two separate systems would be overkill, though, not to mention expensive. A stock system can only take so much. Double high energy systems would probably burn up the plug electrodes or wires. I highly recommend the Accel SuperStock coil if you have electronic ignition, but some people have been reporting failures lately. I've had them on both my cars for years and have not had a single problem. There is an immediate increase in ease of starting, off-idle acceleration, top-end grunt, and mpgs. You have to open up the spark-plug gap to take advantage of the hotter spark. I run .045.

Wow, that was fast! 'Preciate it!

What's this modification about? I did a search but came up empty-handed. I'm still looking for cheaper trany mounts.

I have had the chrome coil in FERTHER in the stock position for at least 5 years and it hasn't missed a beat. Regular wires and NGKs. There was an immediate improvement in starting, off-idle acceleration, top end grunt, and mpgs. There was no *miss* before. The hotter spark *does* provide more complete combustion, which is inhibited by compression. The spark plug gap *must* be opened for the full effect. I run .045. If it wasn't better, why are all new cars now using higher output coils? The only thing to watch out for is older points type ignitions usually can't handle them. Best bang-for-buck I ever bolted in. I'll never go back to a stock coil, except to prove the point. Bring your G-tec and stopwatch. We can both measure the results. I've been running one on FURTHER also for 4 years now with the same excellent results. Russ, I suspect you just got a bad one. Maybe the quality control isn't what it used to be.

FERTHER, Because at 260K it just keeps going. Or, because when I'm climbing that 7% Saluda grade at 4k in 3rd I keep patting the dash and saying, "Just a little ferther, baby, just a little ferther!" PS, I like the new look!

Ruggage, there is some kind of sensor at the coil that shuts the fuel pump off if the engine doesn't keep running after initial start-up. Keeps the fuel pump from over-pressurizing the system. That's about all I know, sorry.

Well, *my* craftsman punch pushes it out enough that you don't need pliers to get it out. I have re-used pins when putting on used axles and they worked fine. I have also had new remans that didn't come with a pin. Not to mention boogering up the new one trying to put it in the wrong side. (dohp!) Although, it's not recommended, I have even put thousands of miles on a nail that I had to use(after bending the ends over) because the pin went flying before I got the craftsman punch. It's also nice not to have to go looking for the pin after removing it.

The Sears Craftsman is the perfect length to push the pin through and still keep it just in the hole so it doesn't go flying off.