beauregaardhooligan

It's been awhile since I rebuilt my $Hitachi, but I seem to recall there were 2 separate adjustments to the float level. IIRC there are two places to bend the tab that touches the float needle.

rkmastiff, 1st thing, change your fuel filters. Check for fuel pressure by cranking while one line is disconnected. Be careful!

I don't see anything in his post about what the burning smell smells like. Could be gear oil getting hot and coming out the dipstick? This has happened to me after vigorous 4 wheeling. A hot clutch will smell like brakes.

Myles, you forgot the Justy's in-line 3 cylinder transverse mounted motor.

Welcome home! How much for the RX, does it run, and where is it?

Be sure to keep an eye on the coolant level.

I think all of us would be interested in *any* 14" or 15" wheels that have the 4 bolt pattern. More pix, please! I should imagine the shipping would be pretty stiff, though.

The curve of the distributor does change the ignition timing while the motor is running, but you can also change the timing setting to run different octanes of gas. The Accel coil will add some grunt, but you need to open the spark plug gap to take advantage of the hotter spark. I run .050. A good set of stock wires will be fine. Subarus seem to prefer NGK plugs, I feel platinum and multi-gap plugs are a waste of money for a stock motor.

I would like to take this opportunity to remind everyone that anti-freeze is extremely toxic to our furred friends. Dogs especially, but cats also like the sweet taste and will lick it up off the ground, so *be sure* to wash any puddles away. It causes their kidneys to shut down and they die a long, painful death. .

The 1st Ed is correct about only using genuine Subaru thermostats, and about not wasting your time/money on flushing an old radiator.

Sorry, McBrat. I just love a good argu, uh, discussion. Did you get the injector tightened? I don't have a turbo, but I thought they only boost when you are accelerating. Shouldn't the mpgs be about the same as a n/a motor if you keep your foot out of it? (Yeah, right, like that's gonna happen!) How hard is the turbo working at a steady 75mph? I was under the assumption that a turbo would improve economy under normal driving conditions. What octane do you run? Any pinging under heavy load? Do you have the Accel coil?

Define it and label it however you want. Put whatever additive in it you want. Bring me your "High" octane and your "Low" octane and I will show you with my car which one runs better. You may save some money with the lower octane, but the performance of the higher rated juice offsets the added cost. It's worth it to me to run a little faster and pull a little harder. Book larnin' is a great thing, but it don't beat practical experience. Have you tried both in your car, with the timing adjusted accordingly? I have. Oh, yeah, external combustion would be called a "fire." A steam engine is an example of an external combustion engine. BTW, ya'll, I would strongly advise against grabbing the garden hose and "running a constant stream of water" into your motor. GDsan, can you define "hydrolock" for us?

Perhaps I wasn't being clear, but being articulate doesn't make you correct. My point about octane is, it makes no difference what is used make it a higher octane, it is still a higher octane. Also the system by which you rate it doesn't matter. 32 degrees fahrenheit is the same thing as 0 degrees celsius. Call it what you want, it's still the temperature at which water freezes. I'm not going to call you on your ludicrous claim of 99.9% of all info being written down, that has nothing to do with our discussion. I make my claims on experiences I can reproduce. Don't take your ball and go home. Lets talk this out like gentlemen.

"I want scientific proof - not demostrations" A demonstration *is* scientific proof, bring a stopwatch. "- write a paper and submit it to a journal" Don't believe everything you read. I can write down anything I want, that doesn't make it true. "- how many degrees do you have in physics and chemistry? mechanical engineering perhaps? These are the people I will believe. Maybe you and all the guys who get 100+ MPG from their special carburetors can get together and come up with some degrees in these fields....." Now you're just trying to be mean. "99.9% of all the information in the world is availible ONLY in written form" Say what? Where do you get that from? " - learn to love it AND use it..... Leaded fuel was availible here in the early 80's. Maybe not where you live - that I don't know...." Availability of unleaded is irrelevant, you can still get it in northern Michigan. Why do you think they put the nozzle restrictor on my gas tank? It doesn't matter what is used to raise the octane, anyway. Nor does it matter how the rating is determined.

Welcome to the board! The only stupid question is the one you don't ask. I just love it when people look under the hood and say "Is that the spare?"

A word to the wise, treat boneyard carbs very gently and don't shake them. You can stir up crud which can stop up passages.

Quote whoever you like, I can demonstrate what I say. Come to G,vl and I'll show you. The proof is in the puddin'. ...and where did you get leaded fuel in the '80s? My Subaru was designed for unleaded. Newer cars with injection and computers can run any octane because their electronics monitor the combustion about 60 times per second and adjust accordingly. I'm not saying it won't run well on regular, I'm saying it performs better on Hi-test, and I can prove it.

I think you need to reconnect the complete PCV system. It is a complicated system that works very well. It will help keep your oil clean, make your engine last longer, and cut pollution dramatically.

Welcome to the board! I can't help you with the parts, but someone on here surely can. Be sure to browse and post in the Subaru Marketplace forum. The autobahn has a severe lack of Subarus, looks like you have them all! Let's see some pictures, please!

Rebuilding a carb, even the Hi-crappy, isn't that hard, if you have the time, space to lay everything out, a complete kit, and a book. Cheaper, fersure.

Show them the $500 cash, if they don't bite, walk away. It may show up at auction later.

GD, the FSM recommends no less than 90 octane for my '84 EA81. You can adjust any motor to run on any octane without pinging. I have experimented with different octanes in FERTHER and it definitley runs better on the hi-test. The mileage is slightly better on the hi-test, which may not off-set the increased cost, but the performance increase makes it worth it to me. The difference is especially noticeable when passing at speed on the hi-way.

....or bypass the heater and get a little electric heater that plugs in the cigarette lighter.

torxx, I mean the level of the float is too low, a mechanical adjustment done by opening the carb and bending the tab that the float presses against the float valve needle. Usually requires a gasket. You should probably just rebuild the whole thing. A rebuild kit will also have a gauge for checking the float height, in addition to a new float valve and needle.

Power loss in a turn indicates a low float level in the fuel bowl.