beauregaardhooligan

I'm not familiar with Subaru automatics, but some filters have a hole in them surrounded by a ring to seal them. Have you compared it to a new one? You say you took it apart, the whole trany, or just the oil pan?

nudge

Try the next higher octane gas, or retard the timing some. Those catalytic converters are famous for rattling.

You may use any of FERTHER's in the USMB pix album, page 5.

It sure does. Do you have any heat? Torxxx is on the money. The book does call for a 195* thermostat. You should'nt need the cardboard trick in GA. btw, JWX, your email is still bouncing. Is there another one?

You might try bleeding the master cylinder. Also bleed it at any connection you disconnected.

Maybe water/condensation in the gas? How long has it been sitting?

Cats may or may not. Dogs are the ones to watch out for, most of them like it.

Change during a turn is classic wheel bearing. Could be the other side. DOJs can make weird vibrations also.

*Be Sure* to dispose of the antifreeze properly, especially if you have pets. They like the sweet taste, but it is deadly to them. It causes kidney failure, and there is no treatment for them. A slow, painful, horrible way to go. If you spill it, just hose it completely away.

Any luck with that? I'm getting that smell, also. I checked out some stop leaks today. The main difference I noticed was most were compatible with antifreeze, and one wasn't. It was the copper flakes in a fluid. They also had the aluminum flakes in fluid, but you could leave it in. With the copper, you have to flush first, then run it, drain it, and leave it sit for 12 hours, then flush again before adding the antifreeze, like snotrocket said. I like the idea of that better than leaving it in, if it'll work.

Definitely full synth.

That'll be some mondo hp! What trany are you using?

Nice idea, might work. It'll only be a temporary fix though, sooner or later it'll give again. Hopefully it'll last till warm weather. Never noticed much difference in stop leaks.

Time for a flush/filter change. There is probably crud blocking off an oil passage or the filter, not good. The pressure loss makes it jump and act like it's out of gear. Find someone you trust with a pressure flush, just draining it doesn't usually do much.

It'll not only work as starting fluid, it'll help lubricate the valves, pistons, rings, etc. before the oil pressure comes up. It might be a good idea to take the coil wire off and just crank it till the oil light goes out. Sometimes after sitting, the gas drains out of the line and it takes awhile to get pumped up. The slickum will fire the engine and get the fuel pumped up faster. WD-40 is the AmericanExpress of cars, never leave home without it.

Maybe leaves blocking the airflow? Check the hoses for heat when it's warmed up, that should indicate coolant flow. A flush/fill T connection is great for bleeding and checking flow.

If you look at my avatar pic you can see how it's supposed to be. I got mine off a hatch, I don't know if they came on wagons. It definitely helps the back end sit still(er) at speed. Keeps the rain off when you're moving also. It does add some drag and eats an mpg or two. edit: It doesn't show up so well on the thumbnail, but you can see the full size pic in the USMB photo albums. Page 5 under FERTHER, the deep sand pic shows it best.

An easy check is to rotate the tires. DOJ(the inner CVjoint) can make weird vibrations that come and go.

Spray a bunch of WD-40/SeaFoam or your favorite slickum in the carb 1st. Let it set and turn the engine by hand if you can.

I *like* that girl! thatgirlsays, are you married? lol There are two webers that are usually used on our Subarus. Both are two barrels, but one is a little smaller with a vacuum operated secondary.The bigger one has a mechanical secondary. The bigger one will give more performance, while the first one is more economical, at least that's what I've heard. No 1st hand experience here. I understand you need to reroute the gas cable and a few other mods, including an adapter plate and air filter. It won't look or sound stock, and may not pass inspection depending on where you live. PS, just saw Toms post, I believe that one is the smaller one. I've heard they need a lot of "dialing in"(adjusting for local conditions) but that they are easy to do.

Blueroo, use the search function and look for threads about the ujoints. I think they are staked in. They have to be un-staked, then pressed out. Reverse to install. Try jacking up one wheel, turn it back and forth and look for play at the u-joints. You may be able to hear it also.

toybuilder, I had mine replaced. Got the ujoint at RetardAuto and took it to the local driveline shop. I think they put it in for about $20.

Just because the thermostat is new doesn't mean it's good. What is the temp. rating? Does it have the jiggle pin facing the right direction? You say you can't find any leaks. Is it losing coolant? You may need to bleed the air by loosening a heater hose or the thermostat housing and the retightening.

good luck with that.