beauregaardhooligan

Check the U-joints.

Say, asavage! Good stuff, there! Do you think you could fix an entire digi-dash display? Nothing works. It's from an '84.

Dude, that sux! Get better soon! Looks like it held up pretty well for a 45mph hit, though.

Gunma! That would be Nirvana to us! Can you show us some pictures? What modifications have you done to your SVX?

Glenn, the only stupid question is the one you don't ask. ...and I suspect that, yes, you will need to change the belt in the Forrester at some point.

Does anybody have pix of all the different configurations? Sure would be handy.

*If* they are the original axles and aren't making noise, it *may* be worth re-packing and re-booting. Aftermarket axles generally suck.

I 3rd that! Welcome aboard, paddlesnz! Aren't the basic block, heads, and cam the same? It's just the ins and outs that make the difference.

Does anyone have pix of the different headlight configurations? It's very confusing because Subaru used probably every possible arrangement. It would also make a great reference for identifying different year models. ...and BTW, it's not "hid" lights, it's "haid" lights. (ignernt, ya'll cain't even talk good.) jk,Adam! I love the rectangular quads on FERTHER. I like to have the psngr side hi- beam a little hi and wide. It's good for spotting 'possums, uh, I mean street signs.

That sux. literally. {snicker}

Good call on the fuel filter. One of the 1st things I learned about Subarus is how weird they act when the filters get even a little dirty. I think your '84 has two, one under the car at the fuel pump and one under the hood at the brake master cylinder. The one under the hood is called a water vapor separator, but looks and acts like a filter. Vacuum leaks could also be the culprit. I highly recommend the Accel SuperStock coil and gapping the plugs to at least .045 or .050. Only NGK plugs will do. The pinging is probably to much advance on the ignition timing or not enough octanes.

To prevent grinding when shifting at a stop, shift into 4th(or 5th) before going into reverse or 2nd before going into 1st. I was told that the gears across from each other share syncros and shifting into the higher gear helps spin them up. Works for FERTHER!

Don't force it in, (Sorry, Boz) you'll break something! They must be turned in. The 4 buck 6-way cube is the way to go. Keep in mind that returning the piston to the bottom of the cylinder will force fluid back to the master. If you've been topping it off, be ready for a mess.

Try shifting into 2nd and then 1st.

I aired FERTHER's 185/80-13s down to 20lbs. to run on the Outer Banks. Went right thru it. Clearance loss, maybe 1/2", wasn't as much of an issue in sand. Works well in mud and snow also. If you air down too far, under 10lbs, the contact patch can bow up in the middle and lose contact. Good advice about not airing down till you need to.

Put the rear of the car *securely* on jack stands, get under it on your back so you can see the trany mount and grab the driveshaft at the same time. Shake vigorously. Some play is ok, but you should be able to tell if it's torn or broke just eyeballing it. The motor mounts are harder to tell, but if they're real bad you can grab the motor and shake or move it by hand. My trany mount was so bad that the trany would hop around under a hard corner. Moved so much that it broke the 4wd sensor and started to leak gear oil!

I don't think worn bearings would produce the clunk you describe. Worn bearings rumble or growl continously or at certain speeds. 1/4" play from driveshaft to wheel turn isn't bad. Did you check the trany mounts?

Black smoke is too much gas. Probably crud in the carb. Try a bottle of your favorite carb cleaner. I like straight Techron.

I say water. I also say a fan can help at hiway speeds, especially when there is an AC cooler also. IM(not so)HO

I always loved them things, and I bet that one would chase a brat around pretty well! My friend had one and it was almost as quick as FERTHER. A little 2bbl ****achi. Well done, so far! Those are the 12" wheels, right? Where did you find snow tires? I'll be real interested to see an EA82T in it.

Nothing is un-breakable! The point I'm trying to make is what would be next to break if the axle stubs won't, and how hard would it be to fix in the woods. I understand a lot of 4x4ers use regular u-joints for just that reason, cheap and easy to fix.

I highly recommend a T fitting that you connect a garden hose to. When you take out the thermostat you get a positive flush.

I don't think there is a double row for the EA81s, but they are a larger row to start with.

Keep in mind, if the stub is stronger, something else will be the weaker link. What would be next? Which is easier to fix?

I run .050.