beauregaardhooligan

Understeer is when you can't turn the wheel enough to go where you want. Oversteer is when the back switches ends on you, much more fun!

negative 1500? Got some wires crossed?

Nice shot! I wanna see air next time.

Hey, Turbone! Any word from our friend?

I think there are two locations on the oil-pump for pressure readings, one for lights and one for gauges.

That's just one. Give him the other three!

Looks like a load of crap to me. The air won't keep swirling after it leaves the fins. If anything, I think it would just add more restriction. Probably get more power from the sticker. Lots of positive endorsements, though. Check the moneyback guarantee carefully before you try it.

If the cap wasn't hot, either the coolant wasn't circulating or there isn't enough. Don't trust the overflow bottle, the tube can get clogged.

Please describe how you re-packed the bearings. Some heat is normal considering the disc brakes and cv axle all go right there. You said you have a temp. gun? What does it read? Does it smell hot?

I can adjust the timing for hi-test or low test on FERTHER and notice a big difference in performance, but if I have it set for low test and fill it with hi-test there is no difference. If I have it adjusted for hi-test and put in lo-test, it pings. Have you tried advancing the timing for hi-test? I have never noticed any difference in brands of gas. I always buy the cheapest I can find of whatever octanes I'm running.

My Dad showed my a neat trick with an allen wrench. Drill a hole in the top of the bolt and tap an appropriate size allen wrench in. If your lucky it may come right out. There are also cam-style stud extractor/installers that work very well with a rachet. NAPA has them.

I just tried it but it couldn't be found. Do they carry transmission/motor mounts?

First of all, make *sure* your car isn't running hot. Knock is too much advance on the ignition timing, or an overheating engine. Carbon build-up in the cylinders can also cause pinging. Other things can sound like knock or ping also. For instance, a small pinhole exhaust leak, mis-adjusted valves, or loose connecting rods.

When you say *tip* you do mean the curved part and not the point coming from the body of the plug, right? The curved part is fairly sturdy because it is meant to be bent to set the gap. The body of the plug is rather fragile and should be handled carefully. A drop of 2 or 3 feet can crack them. Needle nose should be ok, but don't scratch the electrodes on the sides. That can create hotspots and shorten the life of the plug. I like to use a metal fingernail file to smooth off any rough spots in the actual gap. I use a graduated, round gapping tool to check and also set the gap. Cost about a dollar at RetardAuto or AutoDrone. Stick it in the gap and gently wiggle it to get the correct gap. If the gap is too large a very gentle tap should close it enough to start over. BTW, FERTHER doesn't like anything but NGKs. Even though most plugs come pre-gapped from the factory you should always check them.

Some greases are not compatible with other types. I know bearings aren't cheap, but it would probably be worth a new set and throughly cleaning out all the old grease. I wouldn't think you could re-pack the bearings in the hub. Maybe go with the new synthetic stuff. They should last forever then.

...looks more like a yellow condom trying to get off.

Skip, you must not be a smoker! I can take my key out in any position, too. It is worn and requires a wiggle sometimes. I also have found brand-new keys under the carpet under the front passenger seat in FERTHER and in boneyard cars. I think the factory did it. You have to remove the seat to get at it. (I'm not sure what to make of that banana.)