beauregaardhooligan

When I say h pipe I'm talking about what most quickie muffler shops do, a straight pipe on one side and a pipe running to it. It'll look like and *h* with a 90 degree connection, not good for performance. A smooth flowing *Y* for a single exhaust or an *X* or double Y for duals is the way to go.

Backpressure is where your torque comes from. If you can find a good factory Y pipe, go for it. Otherwise a good muffler shop can make you a Y (not H) pipe in the stock diameter. I should think a good sized standard muffler at the back would be fine. I was wondering the other day about using motorcycle mufflers on a crossed-over dual set-up. Their size would allow for rear mounting while retaining clearance. Mid-mounted mufflers are the first thing to drag off-road.

Motor or trany mounts can also do that.

I don't think it'd run out 180 degrees. Timing could be a big issue here, but also the accelerator pump is probably wasted after sitting that long. What is the condition of the exhaust? Does it have the O2 sensor and ECU? Absolutley do a complete tune-up 1st. Only NGK plugs will do. Also check for vacuum leaks.

Could be ball joints, but I'm thinking motor mounts could do that also. Control arm bushing? Tie-rod end?

Someone be sure to bring a camera, preferably digital!

Sounds like goofy contacts. Try cleaning them up nice and shiny. Humidity may be the culprit. Maybe some di-electric grease. One of the digis I had in my '84 would act like that when it rained.

Please clarify: The bearings do not go in the *hub*. They go into the steering knuckle from the engine side. The cv axles must be removed to get at them. The *hub* is what the lugs go through and the brake disc attaches to and must be removed from the outside. Are you saying the bearing race is spinning in the steering knuckle? Did you swap the hub and/or bearings from side to side? Coincidently, the book calls for 145FtLbs on the axle nut. I don't think you can over-torque it, it'll strip first.

from one Ed to another, Welcome Aboard! Yeah, at least put the location and type of Subaru in your bio, saves time. Do you have any tools and wrenching experience? Get a book and start getting familiar with your new baby. I highly recommend changing the oil, filters, (and I mean all of them) coolant, and topping off all fluids. A complete tune-up is next. As far as tires goes, I find the 185-80s work best on the 13" rim for moderate off roading. Give the search engine a try, but don't be scared to ask a question. The only dumb question is the one you don't ask!

What an awesome road trip, and car! I am so jealous.

What is that, about 80/90mph? Them little motors do love to motate, don't they?

Good call, BWM! WD-40 does wonders for a wet cap and wires. Spray liberally on everything, but wipe out the cap afterwards.

Still is! At a steady 65mph I can get almost 24 mpg! 215 FtLbs torque, and that's stock! I've been dreaming of an old RamCharger with a /6. Oh the possibilities! *We now return you to your regularly scheduled thread.*

FURTHER is doing fine, it's the old reliable! Thanx for asking! FERTHER is currently down awaiting a 5spd d/r transplant. (I know, I know, Evan. "Now who's the slacker?!")

nice work, boog!

Change that filter! (sounds like a good wife, probably ought'a keep her.)

:moon: slacker

Love that avatar, Dennis ex24!

IM(no so)HO you can't get enough grease in them while they are installed. I recommend you take them out and start over. Put the suspect bearings on the other side this time and see what happens. Good luck and let us know the results!

You didn't answer my question about removing the bearings to pack them. I can't see how the hubs could make a difference. Try swapping them from side to side. A period every now and then would be nice, also.

Did you take the bearings out to pack them? I can't imagine throughly packing them when they are installed. The classic method of hand-packing is to put a dob of grease on the palm of your hand. Stick a finger, or 2, through the bearing and gently slap one edge of the bearing into the grease. Repeat until grease squishs out the other side of the race. Turn the bearing a little and repeat until the entire race has grease coming out from the other(top) side. There are also cheap bearing greasers that connect to a grease gun. Possibly you have a bad bearing? The heat could be coming from somewhere else. Do the brakes drag or pull? What about the CV joint, is it good? Try switching hubs/disc from side to side. You may just have to drive it till it becomes obvious what the problem is.

I looked at a Justy carb once and it looked like a smaller version of my 2 bbl hitachi. There should be one screw on the housing to loosen and let the pot turn, adjusting the choke. Look for graduated marks on the housing.

That is a common problem with boxer motors. I understand porsches do it also if the pvc system isn't in good order. Check all the connections and hoses and make sure they are clean. They tended to get clogged. Replace any brittle hoses.

shidfug me2

The body looks great! Does the digi-dash work? They can be a PITA. The turbo heads are gold. Offer $300 if it runs good. I'd go up to $700 because of the 2wd and slushbox.