ivantruckman

what about locktite on the bolts ?

thats Effingham ILL cool. do you have a tube bender? very nice work

oh ya i forgot, if the trans and engine wont draw down together like a 1/4 gap .the last spline shaft is not seated.

their are actually three splined shafts that have to be alighned, it is much easyer to put the converter on the trans first, make sure it fully seats, twist and tap it. (dont use a 5 lb sludge hammer), once its mated to the engine you can alighn the torq converter bolts, i would also stress using locktite semi perm blue sealant on the threds. it realy sucks when they come loose, and it can destroy things

LUCKY, ...stupid Michigan wont let us licence mini trucks for the road. id love to drive them . oh btw heres a website of 2 companys that import them . they have dealers all over the U.S. http://www.bandmminitrucks.com/ http://www.best-used-tractors.com/mini_truck.html?gclid=CNPxtefFkZECFQRuIgodxhCwGg

hey i keep getting asked if my lil soob wagon is "one of thoes old amc eagles" you gotta get a jeep snorkle on that brat

i reciently pulled my ea82 engine out of my 92 loyale, did a full gasket reseal , and t belts etc. used the oem cork gasket, used a torq wrench to set the pan bolts. it leaks almost as bad as it did before, now my 86 wagon is all apart, for the same work, has anyone ever used a silicone gasket material for the oil pan. i wanna try to make a gasket out of a sheet of silicone material, maby make some large rectangular washers ?????. its gotta be better than cork

"me, I'd prefer leaving the motor in....." i think the engine is easyer to pull than the trans, i do alot of clutches that way, than reseal the engine while its out

I think you should sell it ...to me, thats a beautiful ride, i would fix it definatly if i were you

you should fill the coolant whith the engine running, also with the engine thermostat warm enough to be open. have you tried to replace the thermostat, it may be stuck open, or in my case the previous owner took it out compleatly. coolant can also expand enough to flow out if the cap is off, it usally flows into the overflow tank with the cap on during normal use

theres not much ajustment. just the initial ajustment when its put in, i would think its done. does the clutch engage at the top of the pedal stroke. like an inch or so from the top???, if thats the case its worn out

the manual dosnt tell you that you have to turn the crank one full turn before you alighn the other timing mark on the cam . common mistake. i did it the first time just like the "chit" eltins manual said. i got a 93 loyale that way for 100 bucks , runs perfect now, they replaced the timing belts wrong.. and thaught they bent a valve

Im 100% in favor of the legacy, so you can sell the hatch to me, will travel for hatch

Dittoes on the time, man i wish i had time to do all that stuff. looks like that rock crawler i once saw on here

dont buy a manual, just download it here , you need the ea82 part 1 and 2.. http://www.finleyweb.net/JonsStuff/SubaruDocumentation/tabid/54/Default.aspx

wow this thred has more michigan subie owners than ive ever seen Michigan subie owners unite we have no mountains but we got Mud

bastowmatic. i live here im michigan and travel to detroit often. i have three spare engines and access to about 4 other parts subies, is your wagon a 4 wheel drive, or 2 wheel drive, they have two different distys, i have bolth, i have found that here in michigan i dont trust anybody to work on my subies except hodges subaru in ferndale. they worked on my 84 and were very reasonable. kinda far away. pm me and ill call you back. im going to fort wane indiana on monday and will be going thru yipsy, i dont know how you found an 89 wagon near me , i usally get them first, if its a 4x4 , im a hawk on ebay and craigs list for them, i check them sontimes twice a day. aarrgggg you got me.. lol

is their a junk yard near you. if you could get a known good tps and swap it out. i have been havang similar problems, if you go all over the engine compartment and look for ground straps and clean them it may help also. if the problem is only when its cold out , i dont think a tps would make that much difference. ill pull my tps out of my spare engine and do a vom test, and see if it matches yours, somtimes manuals can be wrong

check the ground strap , the one that goes to a bolt on the thermostat housing i had a corroded terminal end, i cut the wire back . and crimped a new one on, it fixed my idle problem. the car would not idle when it was cold outside, like under 35 degrees or so.

i would plug them. the car may not idle properly

3at 175 70, runs 4000 at 55 mph... weeeeeeee. / my 86 dr 5 speed, with 205 65 15 spins about 2300 at 55

+1 on the vac modulator, the internal rubber can fail and suck atf into the vac lines and into the intake, it dosnt happen very often, but it is possiable

rust in navada,, you should see my old rusty trusty. it actually cracked in half just behind the front suspention mount... that wagon rocks,

you could get some gear oil to spill out the rear, i wouldnt want any road dirt to get in there either, ive used a heavy rubber band and some good plastic before, slip it over the rear output

i think gd may be right , the carb is clean just raw oil on the outside of the filter