ivantruckman

I deleted all the air valves , blocked off the exhaust ports , plugged the air cleaner ports. works perfectly . no backfire issues at all .. thanks tom .duncanee, i75eya,jono. you guys rock .

ILL TRY THIS TODAY , LOOKS EASY ENOUGH , THANKS GUYS.

Hi Guys , my 86 gl ea82 stock Hitachi carb is backfiring between shifts , I just put a carb kit in , it runs and idles flawlessly , adjusted the timing and the sputtering between shifts stopped . but when I accelerate sharply and then put the clutch in it takes about 2 seconds and backfires like a shot gun , it exploded the muffler. it backfired before and after the carb kit.. no change.. I don't want to put a new muffler on till I get it to stop. so I cant drive it on the road....anny one else ever have this happen ?

1986 Subaru ea82 4wd carbed....There is a 3 wire plug going to the Hitachi carb one is ground, one is choke + , the other goes to an idle air control. or is this just a anti diesel solenoid ? my Hitachi will not idle , other than that it runs perfect. the wires to this solenoid look sketchy . does this solenoid effect idle ? .

I just read Jezek's write up on the relays . That has to be it.

Hmmm just noticed that the left head light is dim . I will check all the grounds . and report back .

My running lights no longer come on with the headlights , If I turn on the parking light switch in the center of the steering column they work, all except the dash lights ? where is the problem more likely to be . ignition switch ? or perhaps the headlight switch . any help would be much appreciated, This is my DD and the daylight is getting shorter every day .

I would think the cost to weberize would be the same as having someone else rebuild the hatachi .

one thing to check., After a while the oil pan surface around the bolt holed tends to distort . causing high spots in the metal . I use a body file to flatten the pan before I use the grey silicone gasket maker. it can be as much as a 1/6th of an inch .

in our climate we have a lot of moisture . it tends to collect in the transmission and low temps make the gear oil awfully thick .

why would only one front wheel be spinning . when ever I engage the 4wd on my dl or loyale it locks the front axle . the rear is not locked . my loyale is a mad dog on packed snow or ice with mastercraft glacier grip 13 inch tires .

I have seen some interior spray dye , it comes in a spray can , I use flat black and it turned out nice . not sure it colors match well .thats why I went black .

anything other than kyb gr2 will disappoint you . especially if you are running a larger tire.

I did replace the switch with one from a used car that was operating fine . 1 day no problem yet .

they hydraulic leaks are really going to be tough to diagnose on the forum . just replacing the pads and rotors is simple . it should be no different than any other car except for the caliper piston screws in instead of just compressing like most cars . check your brake lines going to the master cylinder for leaks, it dosnt make sense that a master cylinder would leak over to the wheel. can you get pictures ? and post them ? it may help .

quite honestly here in Michigan its worth atleast that in scrap. I cant see how you could go wrong with 400.

I have a 91 loyale , a few months ago it would not crank .( key on battery good) , I used a jumper wire on the starter solenoid lug it fired easly so it wasn't the starter . it would always start the first time in the morning . after driving it would not crank . unless I jumped it. . so I installed a start button directly from the battery . all good. for a month . now it will crank but not start . im getting 8 volts at the distributor. when it cools down maby an hour it will fire . I am thinking its the ignition switch . any thaughts ?

I love rock auto . kyb shocks are the same no matter where you buy them . my only question is if it was probable that if a timing belt sat for many years if it would derade . I actually replace the timing belt with a gates timing belt ..from rock auto i didnt intend to say that rock auto is bad .

I just did this procedure , Its not that hard to do . sometimes if you let it go for too long the bearings heat up and can be a problem getting out . but they do come out without too much effort . good luck .

I have just replaced my timing belt last month. II also replace all idlers , seals etc. got the belt from Rock auto , good price , I have used budget timing belts in the past no problems . . this one lasted 1400 miles . and the belt broke while idling in the driveway . while inspecting the broken belt it looked dry rotted . my theory is. rock auto sells surplus inventory from other suppliers. if this belt was sitting on a shelf for 15 years could it be that the rubber is broken down in such a way as to make it fail early . my solution is a brand new gates timing belt . this is the second time that a rock auto surplus belt has failed me in a short time .. is there anyone else that have had this problem ???

HaHaHa , now all you need is a smoke screen and an ejection seat .

just turned 200k

thanks Jes zek I have bent struts before , and I think ill try Kyb gas struts in the future . they do have a lifetime warranty .

I have my 86 gl 2 inch lift , and 15 inch steel chevy redrill rims . it has 205 65 15 tires , i just put new front struts , and new rear struts , the front left is blown leaking oil . and the right rear is the same , im stumped, the factory struts lasted longer. the front are gabreil brand . and the rear are kyb. . i drive dirt roads daily , im carefull not to hit massive potholes at high speeds . im at a loss as to what I should do..

if its an automatic . it could be low on fluid . and the angle could have caused it to draw air. if its a manual your clutch is most likley toast .