archemitis

well, im gonna rebuild my ea81 axles with my ea82s. im guessing its the inner joint, since the outer one usualy clicks? and i've only changed the outer cv joint between ea81s and 82s, the inner swaps too right?

thats just what ea82s do,low or 0 at idle is normal, read the manual keith is right on. one of my ea82s goes right to 0, and the other hovers around 2 or 1. if it was an ea81, different story, from what i've seen

Dual Range Forever!

WELL, if its axles, i got 4 good ones off an ea82. have yet to measure my alignment. i wiggled the axles and the both seem fine. guess i'll just have rebuild both with the good ones i got. frankenstein time, i guess.

just noticed australia, you guys had carbs all the way up to 94 right? i was thinking your 91 was a efi at heart.

pour gas down the throat to see if it will start, if it does, you timing is ok, and your carb needs attention. if it dont start with gas, or starting fluid, its most likely timing. thats about all it can be, as long as you arent using an optical disty with a carb setup(is that right),from an spfi, or newer mpfi. your going from efi to carb right?

not like alot of play in it, but once i get over 50 mph the front end goes crazy. the steering wheel goes wobbles back and forth about 1 inch very fast. it seems to do it more when i let off the gas, than when floored. i changed bearings, and ball joints on the suspect side, and it didnt do much if anything. it has to be the front end because its all in the steering wheel right? do these symtoms sound like cv, doj, reely bad alignment, tie rod ends? everytihng? i gotta fix it before the iowa meet.

UM... with an adaptor you could use one of the 73(thereabouts)millimeter form a newer mustang, but then your maf sensor would be your bottle neck. pretty much anyting can be mad to work, with a tps, but you gotta think about the whole thing. bigger turbo, or an intercooler would do you more good than a big tb. but to my knowledge, nothing just bolts right on.

that little hose next to the strut tower is a vent hose for the fuel system, or a return line, leave that, the other bigger ones going into that square box, is you ari suction valve system. you can remove those hacksaw the pipes off and weld them shut. or just stick a sparkplug down the biggest hose, and its blocked off.

subimech85 must smoke crack

ya, or take the cable off and lube the rust out of it. my 89 is very heavy, but my 86 with new stuff on it is pretty light. but, if you have a hill holder, and never use it. you can take that off and put a light carb return spring in its place, that will make it lighter feeling.

those guys sure as hell didnt pass on any free subaru parts, guess they arent so common down there. we'll have to see footage in iowa on the 24th

is it complete? i dont see anything hanging down to turn the wheels. but i do have a realy dark monitor.

your sender unit is porlly out, unless it was clicking like crazy, your pump is fine, and a shop is trying to rip you off.

ya, i need an o2 sensor too, but i hope to turbo/intercool it before the end of april, so thats its temporary location. otherwise there would be a hole in the hood =]

i may be retarded, but i just use the nut and washer to pull the axle through. and make sure the seals are going ok.

i saw one guy mention that he ran 27 inch rubber on 15 inch pugs, on his ea82 wagon, with minimal to no rubing. so im wondering, could i get by with 25.5s on my 86 4x hatch, with no lift cranked in? mcbrat, did they only rub where the tire was biggest, BECAUSE of the lift, or would it do without a lift too? might sound dumb, but it widens up a bit above the mud flap.

? for the filter?

wow, it must be fate. did you say hill climb?

if you have MIRC you can go to channel #subaru and talk in real time with other subaru enthusiasts. better than off topic!

well, i have had it in there once before, so i had to make it clear that is does run =]

nother pic

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get the one that fits the car. it will last 100k miles and then some. thats about as good as you can hope for, unless you are pushing some boost, and have some serious hp. 35 bucks for just the disc, and to bearing and pilot bearing, from thepartsbin.com

3rd down first row second page, pic. is that a white hatch in the backround? my monitor is old, and i cant tell. looks like a good spot.