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TheLoyale

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Everything posted by TheLoyale

  1. When I get the money for one. I'm waiting for the Toyota seals first, so I can have that all done and drive it again!
  2. +100,000,000
  3. When you go to press the caliper piston in on the Loyale, you need to press and turn at the same time for it to seat back into its bore (Newer EJ Subarus you can just press the piston in with a C-clamp) If you piston is stuck, soak it with some PB-Blaster or DeepCreep. Than use a block of wood and the hydraulic pressure of the system to back the piston out a little bit (Work it, to unfreeze it) Do not let the piston come completely out. Might just save you some more time and money.
  4. Yeah I hear that. I had that issue with my Loyale for the longest time (Back when I had a primer patch for 3yrs) the rust started to show, resprayed it with primer lol! I might as well paint the hood white while I'm at it.
  5. Damn that Legacy looks good.
  6. I run coverless on all Subarus, never had a failed belt and you can inspect it on the daily if you want. Also makes adjusting the EA82 timing belt tension easier. The timing covers are known to break just by looking at them.
  7. Transfer Punch FTW!
  8. Yeah 35x12.5 is the way to go on these. Wish I knew that before I bought my 33s lol. Ordered the seals from CruiserOutfitters, should get them sometime next week I would guess. $129 shipped.
  9. Depending on style of alloy wheel, you can not redrill them, which is what I meant. The Toyota Alloys for instance, you don't have any material to drill, since most alloys have recessed lugs.
  10. I fixed all the dents and holes in the original hood today. The hood I bought out of the Junkyard has a very large dent in the center (Like someone sat on it) and has a little more rust. So I cleaned up the original hood and will use this hood instead. Sanded entire hood and coated with Primer. It'll stay primer until I get the whole car repainted professionally later on. This is the other hood which I bought, it'll be a good spare. I may even fix this hood as well when I'm bored. Also painted the wheels Satin black. This is the Core support I got from TomR, thanks man! I just need to cut and weld it up. I have to cut this one up so I don't ruin the upper section as it is still in good shape.
  11. Two of the 4x140 stud will line up perfect with a 6x139 wheel. use those two studs, knock out of the other two. Bolt wheel to hub, center punch each new hole and start drilling, remove wheel and finish the holes. Use the wheel as your guide, not that hard. This is the route I'm going on my '83. 1. Tire shops are iffy about touching redrilled wheels. 2. Redrilled wheels look sloppy (Unless you fill the unused holes) 3. Very hard to redrill Alloy wheels.
  12. Which is why its easier to drill the hubs. Cleaner look, and no worries on beveling. Plus it looks cool, how many Subarus do you see with 6-lug?
  13. Man, you are almost in the middle of the state! If you ever find your way to WI look me up and we'll do a Loyale meet, xbeerd has a '92 Loyale as well. -Tom
  14. Indeed I could.
  15. I am looking forward to driving it and not have it buck anymore, before, it was like the car was trying to hump me LMAO! I am welding on the original hood tonight. The Calif. Hood has a huge dent in it which can be seen when wet. The original hood it dent free, but had two drilled holes in it from hood pins. I welded those closed and ground them down, next up will be some filler and blending. Wire wheel the underside and repaint with black enamel.
  16. You will be very happy with the BFGoodrich KM2. They are a heavy tire, but are the best I've had so far. They also wear really good for a Mud-Terrain, they last.
  17. Think we finally have the Weber tuned correctly. Had to richen it up, then we adjusted the Choke plate so it'll close more when cold, and adjusted the Step-up a little higher. Seems to start up and run like a top now, thanks Dad! Can't really drive it until I get the thermo switch. (Well I could hook the fan directly to the batt and drive it around, but eh, I'll wait.)
  18. The rack turned out good, all steel is a plus. Are you planning on using those wheels in the back of the car? Looks to be some type of 6 or 8-lug wheel? Here is a detailed write-up on how to do a 6-lug swap. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=132536
  19. Any 6-lug Toyota wheel will work. They are 6x139. Here is a detailed write-up about 6-lug swapping. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=132536
  20. Really! Gonna PM you.
  21. I may be onto something here! Will post later with details once I find that it did fix the issue. ALSO, I need a Thermo switch. Mine stopped working today, where can I buy a new one? Rockauto doesn't list it (Only the Temp sender for the gauge) Parts house wants $40 for the switch, BS!
  22. The Plugs are new NGK, I've gone over this entire engine through the build. PCV is new and working, There is no EGR tube on the head (Aren't you thinking about the EJ motors?) This is an EA82 EGR, so it bolts to the intake, and a 5/32" hose runs off that to the carb. And the EGR is working properly. All cylinders are firing accordingly, it runs ok, idle is a little off, and it bucks with the throttle pedal pressed slightly when cruising. Put your foot into it a little more where it starts to pull and there is no more bucking. Maybe you have to drive this car like the Harley drivers do, Feed the gas hard, let off, feed it hard, let off lol... The Vac caps are good, no cracks. I have not tried capping off the HVAC yet. Perhaps I'll give that a whirl. Kinda starting to run out of options. Throttle return spring is just perfect with resistance. Feels good and shut the throttle all the way (I adjusted the throttle hold screw up just so it'll idle about 600-700) But now it idles lower and rough for no apparent reason. My header may have a slight leak, could this be the cause? Still not enough back pressure?
  23. Well, the Bucking is back. How is that possible? Ran great earlier today, no bucking, good power, felt great and thought it was fixed! Now it runs like it always has, bucking, runs like crap when you first start it, sometimes it'll revs up and stalled when trying to warm up. Almost like the choke isn't closing (Will check that out) and that the step-up isn't working. Sadly this car is really pissing me off. Time for
  24. Well I'll be damned. Thats all the problem was! I really didn't think it would matter where it was hooked up, but I did notice the port on the carb has less section than the port straight off the intake, so I can see how that can be a major problem. Problem finally solved! Thank you all! Mick, thank you for the illustrations.

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