TheLoyale

I envy that motor build very much

Indeed I'll make sure the rotor is pointing at #1. The two markings that are supposedly on the Disty body and Rotor gear that you line up should also point the rotor at #1 cylinder, yeah? Either way, I'll get it in and working!

What is that sedan behind the Impreza? A Toyota?

Its very welcome right here! Ha! I see you have the same rust bubbled on your door as I do on mine.

If you do find that the bearing is a shelf item, post up the part number! I'm sure the whole USMB would be interested in this info.

Cool, sounds easy.

So I looked in the FSM about installing the Distributor. Set motor to #1 cylinder @ TDC, Line up mark on Distributor gear with mark on Distributor body, install distributor. Whats the best way to make sure motor is at TDC? Should I just pull Plug #1 stick my finger in the bore until I feel the piston come about? (Turning crank with ratchet) Are there still timing marks on the Flywheel like the EA82?

Get some ATV/Side-by-side tires. They aren't DOT, but will work just fine for an Offroad/trail tire.

I may have to go this route on mine. Yours turned out nicely! What are you using to grind down the welds. I am using a flapper disc, but it is trick to blend the welds without taking too much off.

Join the USMB chatroom! http://www.frost-technologies.com/chat/

Perfect, I guess this will be the next step instead of the clutch. I will keep the original so I can have it rebuilt or rebuild it my self when I get bored.

Cool, I just looked at Rockauto and at the A1. Does it come with the Electronic parts or no? Picture doesn't show them, but you can't always rely on pictures At least its not $300 as I was expecting.

LOL! I could EJ swap it for that much :-p So I take it that the remans can be had for cheaper? And would be available at most part houses? How different is an EA82 disty from a 1985-87 carb'ed motor? I bet its a totally different animal.

I probably know the answer to this, but can you buy a New electro. IGN disty anywhere? If you can in fact still get a genuine one from Subaru, anyone know how much one is? Lol, its kinda one thing after another with this car. I got rid of the Legacy for that reason Ah well.

Scratch that. I just popped the cap off, and sure as sh*t, I have about 1/8-1/4" of play up and down, and it moves side to side pretty much. So now what?

To answer you question, nope. There is no play in the rotor shaft, I've read about how the bushings like to wear out, but so far, mine are still good. I have not checked the vacuum advance yet, what do I have to do, in order to check it? As for vac lines, I have the vac advance, Booster and the HVAC. Booster and HVAC run off the intake ports, the Vac advance it running off the port in front on the Weber. As for Fuel Filters, I changed the one in the engine bay, but the one by the Fuel pump is unknown. Perhaps I will change that as well when I get paid. DISCOVERY: The bucking will happen at any RPM, but still only before engine load.

I cant figure out this Weber, my Dad doesn't even understand why its acting the way it is. So, we adjusted it to where it idles smooth, no bogging or cutting out under free revv. It drives awesome, but there is one issue I can not fix no matter how we adjust the carb. While at speed, with the pedal pressed just before load (Coasting without decelerating) It bucks non stop, but once you give the motor a little bit of load, it clears up and drives smooth. Engine braking is smooth and no bucking, I have great, smooth pull up to 4000rpm (Can't really go beyond that as the clutch starts to slip) So slight to moderate bucking just before load while at speed, the bucking is right around 1900-2100rpm ONLY. My dad thinks it might be a defective carb, I dunno. How often are true Webers defective? I know the adaptor plate does not line up flush with the barrel of the carb, there is a little lip, vs a smooth transition. The throttle plates do not hit anything. Can the problem be with the adaptor plate? This little bucking issue is the only problem I have with the carb now, whats funny is, it ran like this with the stock Hitachi too.

We have lots of those Cab forward trucks here too. Mostly Mitsubishi Fuso and the Chevy equivalent. Most are Turbo Diesel 4cyls and have the same wheel set up. I always wanted one of those cab forward trucks, Fuso or Toyota Canter.

The only Mini pickups we had in the USA were, Chevy Luv, Mazda B-series, Dodge D-50/Ram 50, Nissan models, Toyota models, Ford Courier, Isuzu models, and I think that is about it. We never had Kia vehicles till the early 90s, and none were trucks. I like that white Sport truck! And that white Toyota Prado.

Indeed, anything and everything you can think of, has been posted in this forum. Lots of good info, with a simple search! Welcome to the USMB... -Tom

Is there only one drain plug on the front Diff/Gearbox? And do you fill it thru the dipstick hole like normal? I want to change the gear oil so its fresh and am thinking of running Lucas synthetic in it, what weight should I run for all year driving? I have a small grind going into 3rd most of the time.

Is there a way to inspect the clutch disc without really doing anything? I would like a visual of it, as I was thinking about taking the car to a show about 14 miles from me in the coming weeks. I don't want to end up without a clutch though lol.

Mom always told me to sit up straight, she said it was good posterior.

Slowly by surely is better than nothing at all! Like Christmas, I know its coming SOMETIME! :-p I need to get another RX style grill, so I can send you one.

You know what I am so tired of on this board, everytime you see a for sale thread, it is someone from the PNW, and they never want to ship anything (Local Only) they have an over abundance of this stuff, and they never want to ship it to us in the Mid-west, which is why they HAVE an over abundance of the stuff. I can't get over how many sets of 15" Pugs I've seen get passed around in WA/OR, I'd like to have a nice set of Pugs sometime, but its kinda hard when the locals snatch them up and the seller does not want to take the effort to ship them. Yet I am willing to ship everything to wherever, hmm.... And another thing, everytime I do sell something, it goes to someone in the PNW. Why are you buying from someone in the Mid-west, when you can walk down the street and pick 4x as many parts as I'm selling? Folks in the PNW who are NOT willing to ship, should have their own for sale section, so the locals can converse amongst their selfs without getting our hopes up in the rust belt. Rant over...