TheLoyale

You can get a new EMPI axle (23 spline) for about $50. I think A1 Cardone is a little cheaper. But I've had good experience with EMPI (There are a lot of threads about EMPI on here) Just a heads up EMPI axles can be found on Rockauto, Partsgeek, Thepartsbin ect. -Tom

We pulled all jets out and checked and cleaned passages yesterday. So everything is indeed open. I will try these adjustment steps right now!

Sure Tom, just had to correct it to make me look like the bad guy... :cool: As for Threads, are you talking about Nut threads for the Castle nut, or the axle splines where it presses into the hub and onto the Transmission axle stub? If you had a bad Cone washer or a loose/improper torqued nut, the splines on the CVJ end can wear out or become damaged. Castle nut torque is like 150ft.lbs but I just get a breaker bar and a 4ft pipe and put most my weight on it (Until the car starts to rock back and forth) never had an issue in my 6yrs of Subaru madness! I HATE RUST! Just so you know :-p

It will not even idle at 2 turns out, won't even fire up. It has to be 3 to 3-1/4 turns out for it to start up, even then it wants to stall unless you keep feathering the throttle. Having it 4+ turns out is where its happy, idles and starts good, revvs good. This is why I'm thinking this carb is defective (Like the disty I bought)

Oh, yeah, the engine response is right there when you downshift and bring the RPMs up, it has pull aswell. The bucking/surging/sputtering happens at any and all RPM range when you are lightly on the throttle (Not enough throttle to start pulling, just enough throttle to maintain speed)

Basically if the motor isn't really being worked (Like driving on a flat surface) then the RPMs must keep climbing to avoid bucking. If you are climbing a hill, high or low RPMs it is smooth because of the load.

Drop down a gear or two, like going from 2nd to 4th? Bogging the motor a little bit? Yes it is still smooth, climbing hills, smooth, because the motor is working.

I really don't have any issue fixing stuff when I know what it is. A bad Head gasket, I can fix that. Cracked intake, I can fix that. Blow transmission, I can fix that. But when you don't have any idea on what the problem is, nor how to fix it, that is the frustrating part. You've gone over everything, time and time again. You start back and square one, and its always the same end result.

As for mixture adjustment, if you have it 3 or 3-1/2 turns out, it acts like its too lean, cover the barrels with your hand, and the idle picks up and smooths out, so you richen it, I've tried it every which way you can, from 4 turns out to 6 turns out and everywhere in between. It still acts like it is starving, yet the exhaust smells like fuel and it burns you eyes. But it ALWAYS bucks the same, no matter how the mixture adjustment is set. Cold start up is perfect, one pump to close the choke, crank, fires up, idles up to about 3000rpm until you kick off the step-up. Idles great, idles great when hot. Drives good if you are on the gas or engine braking. Cruising sucks, starts bucking. You have to keep the motor under load for it not to buck. Also, once and a while when I shut it off, the engine fires back up (With key off) and will runs for 2 or 3 secs and then stalls (Probably just because fuel is igniting from the heat) I don't have any anti-dieseling solenoid on the carb. It doesn't diesel, it just starts back up lol and then stalls.

EVERYTHING IS NEW. NGK BPR6ES (Or whatever is stock) NGK Wires New Fuel Filters All new Fuel lines under car (And brake lines) Fuel pump seems to work fine, its only 3psi max. NEW Disty. NEW Cap/Rotor. The Exhaust smells rich, burns your eyes. If you lean it a little, the idle turns to crap, Lower, Lumpier, not as responsive. Drives good while engine braking, or harder throttle driving. Light throttle (Trying to just drive the speed limit) and the bucking starts and won't go away unless there is more load on the motor or if you feed a little more gas. If you slow down to make a turn while in 2nd, get back on the gas to finish the turn, it bucks and sputters unless you give it more throttle. Slow Parking lot driving is a no go with this, bucking and sputtering unless you feed more gas, by then you are driving 20mph or faster lol. It can not be a coil or sporadic spark, as that would effect it thoughout the powerband. Hot start up is sometimes trick, it won't just fire right up, you have to crank it and pump the gas once for it to fire, then it'll have a little dead spot off idle until it runs for a little bit (Why? The motor is still HOT) nothing really makes sense on this thing lol.

I am also bothered by the Adaptor plate, it doesn't line up smoothly with the opening on the intake. There is a lip on both ends, all these imperfections. I've seen Holly kits where everything is spot on, adaptor plates line up perfect, carbs are very smooth inside (Flawless Barrels) mine are rough and gritty. $320, should have been more like $50 for what "I" got. Anyone else get this poor quality?

HVAC is not the issue, I capped it off once. Disty advance doesn't leak, its a new hose. Brake booster doesn't leak, I capped it off, it too has all new hose. There is no cruise. EGR does not leak. All hoses and lines are new, I've gone over this whole motor. Intake gaskets are new. EVERYTHING IS NEW! As I said before, I am displeased with the quality of the carb. I've seen better castings come out of China, you think Germany would step up their game. Or did I just get a junk carb from the get-go?

*Cough* Tom, I know I didn't go to High-School, but I don't think 2012 Minus 1992 Equals 30? Please correct me if I'm wrong. :-p

Mick got the thermo switches today! Thank you for the extras, that was unexpected! My fan now kicks on when it should! So, dad took the carb apart as I watched. Looked at everything, cleaned everything, reassembled it, installed it, started it up and it runs the same. I got out a can of starting fluid spray, and starting spraying areas on around the carb. I sprayed the rear of the Adaptor plate where it meets the carb, idle smoothed and picked up (It has not effect if the motor is at idle) I had it revving steady while I sprayed it and then I noticed the increase. SO, I Blue RTV'ed the gasket to the adaptor plate (Did not RTV the carb side! As that would be a big no no.) I don't think that gasket is leaking anymore, but it still bucks. There are no other vac leaks that I find. I am running an EA82 EGR, perhaps I should remove the EGR all together and make a block-off plate. The EGR is moving during revving like it should, but I dunno... I am running out of ideas, everything we can think of and try has failed. I'm really thinking of selling it at this point, I'm done. Loyale and Landcruiser, no more of this carb'ed mess. I am very displeased with how rough the castings are with this Weber, my Dad has never seen a carb with such poor casting.

Mick you are correct, it did buck with the original carb. It runs better now because of the new carb and full-tune up, but the bucking is still there. I will try the carb cleaner trick after I put the carb back on. Dads gonna disassemble it and check it out first (Since he knows WTF he's looking at) I'm more like, uhhh, ok this is the Metering jet, and this one is the idle...? :-p Will post back if we find anything after we tear it down.

Wow dude, thats cool! We'll probably see this posted in a Subaru commercial now

I have the fronts cranked up to max (So I have a little positive, typical Subaru style) The rear tube I can't adjust, the bolt must be frozen. I may try harder later on (The rear is still higher than the front) I did kinda want to level it out sometime. Fox may disagree with me on that one, I know he likes the stinkbug stance. It doesn't look horrible, I just light things level to some extent. In other news, I have now removed the Weber DGEV, and I am going to slowly disassemble and check it out bit by bit. I am thinking this bucking has got to be some defect with the carb, either a casting defect or a gasket blocking a passage, or just a damaged component from sloppy assembly from the factory. Once you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth.

Indeed! Lol, it is hard to comment on this thread, because JesZek covers everything in such detail, there isn't anything to comment on (Other than, Good work!) I like how you swapped that 3rd brake light, I might do the same on the Loyale.

I checked my Subaru stash, and I don't have any of those. I only have some extra EJ whatnot. Next time I see an EA82 in the yard, I'm gonna pocket those goodies!

You can get new Cone Washers from the dealer, or a junkyard if you have one by you. EA81 and EA82 use the same Cone Washer.

Do EA81s have Negative rear camber normally?

*Puts gun to engine block* Why do you keep bucking!

I like the shackles better than D-rings, as they can be easily replaced.

So, JesZek posted this video link in his "BumbleBeast" thread. This is the first time I have seen this, and I started to ask my self, how come no one ever really tries to build up an EA82 with hop-ups like this? Apparently stuff is available to a degree. The DOHC heads must be machined much much better than the stock EA82 heads (Gen-I, Gen-II, Gen-III) I wonder, roughly, how much money this guy stuck into this EA82? I have never seen anyone really build up an EA82 and run it in a car, everyone goes the EJ route (Which is fine and dandy) but a custom DOHC EA82 would be novel in a EA81/EA82 chassis. Feel free to comment, post questions or thoughts on this topic. DO NOT let this turn into another Flame war over the long debated "EJ swap it" method. Cheers!

Those are a good size, You want something that'll take abuse. The scale of those look pretty close to whats on mine.