TheLoyale

Got the seal kit a few days ago. Looks like I'ma get messy this weekend! Gotta get some Moly grease, Gear Oil (Lucus) PB/Deep Creep, Steal a box of rags from work, Brake or Carb Cleaner, and some RTV incase. Gonna take pictures as I go.

Yep! If you remember my thread, I had a lot more repair work in that area. It was indeed bothersome.

Anybody know where I can get clips like these? These ones made by Auveco are discontinued. There must be another clip like this eh?

The LSDs (Clutch or Viscous) aren't really the best for off-road from what I've read by others, it may help a little. What would be tits would be an E-locker or an Air locker setup, so you can lock and unlock as needed like a true 4x4.

100% agree. Driving around with a Locked rear diff on tarmac isn't the best (There is no slippage between either wheel) One has to spin quicker when making a turn, other wise CHIRP CHIRP CHIRP!! Perhaps pick up a second diff, weld on locked, and leave the other open. Swap them out real quick once at the event.

Amazing how much larger the Forester is to the EA81.. Wow. I like the trailer idea! I've seen others on here with similar ideas.

Oh my...! That is a pretty large Mantis. Thats cool!

It has something to do with holding torque if I remember right. Plus its going to press the cone washer with even pressure whereas it wouldn't, the other way around. Thats my thinking at least.

JesZek, thank you for the link. I may even make a block off plate and remove the EGR for a cleaner look. Rob, awesome! I am gonna get your CB to you asap. I get paid friday and will ship it out friday afternoon! I am very glad we figured this out, and it was not a faulty carb, I still have never seen a carb with such poor internal castings though. Now I need to get the clutch done!

Good thing Tom had some extras! I need to get a stock pile going everytime I find an oldie in the junkyard. Make sure the flat washer is on correctly. On one side, it will say "OUT" if not, these washers have a slight bow to them, make sure it bows away from the cone washer. Like this ) <----- Castle nut presses against this side. Cheers!!

That is interesting. As I did cap off the EGR a while before that post, and it still had bucking. But this was also back when I had the carb a little too lean and the timing was off as I later sorted out with my timing light. Perhaps that is why I dismissed the EGR from causing the issue.

Lynn told me EGRs seem to cause more issues than good. He tries to eliminate them when he can, like on the Big V8s. Also, seeing that I do not have to take this car to Emissions testing because it is older than 1996, there is no point on having any of the emissions control stuff on this motor. It is very nice to drive this car now, I can puts around a parking lot slowly without bucking and sounding like its gonna die. Very cool!

Now that is cool! Pretty fitting visitor I say :cool:

Finally fixed the bucking of the EA81! EGR was the main issue here.

The time has come, after months of adjustments and cussing. THE BUCKING IS GONE! I went over to Jboymechanic's (Jon's) house, and his Dad (Lynn) checked out the vacuum the motor was producing, it was very shaky to start with and low, he then checked to make sure the Vacuum Advance was holding vacuum, it did. Lynn then plugged off the EGR, adjusted the Mixture screw out 1/4 turn at a time, until we hit maximum vacuum on the intake, which was a total of 22 cubic inches. We then checked and reset the timing to 12* BTDC, took it down the road and all bucking was gone. Came back, connected the EGR, and before I even left the driveway, we could feel the bucking had come back. Disconnect the EGR, and it is smooth again. The EGR was the main issue here. I am leaving the EGR disconnected, and capped off the port on the carb for it, the EGR will act as its own block off plate with no vac going to it. Problem solved, once and for all! Big thanks goes out to Lynn and Jon for tracking this issue down.

OH! He's just swapping out the hub plate, not the entire knuckle. Ok gotcha...

Wanna come down to North America and fab up some wheel arches for me...? You seem to have more steam left over! :-p Yeah man, that is looking good.

Yes, the hubs will work Questions! You are worried about asking too many questions?! No worries man, you're doing fine, its best to ask, than to learn the hard way. Only thing is, if you were to use an XT6 knuckle, you'll have 5-lug in the front (You'd be half done with the 5-lug swap!) then you could run any 5x100 wheel on the market. But any other Turbo Subaru (Wagon/Sedan/XT EA82) will have the 4x140 hubs and will bolt up. An XT6 looks like a wedge btw, and has a ER27 Flat-6 but is based on the EA82 chassis.

Turbo, I did want a set of 15" pugs. But I am going to go with 16" Steel spoke wheels when I redrill the hubs. Someone should pick those up, nice clean set! Toonga, Thanks for the compliments. As for the Bucking, no sir, haven't figured it out yet. I'm planning to get a fresh set of eyes to take a look and listen to the motor this weekend, perhaps than we'll have it sorted out! I would be keen to drive this car all about once we fix the bucking. As for the Weber adaptor, you would be correct. Folks have had them leak coolant and such. What I did was use RTV on the gasket and filled up coolant passage port on the intake, then seated the adaptor and torqued it down, have no had any trouble with that yet, and don't think I shall. The RTV was an extra safety measure, I do the same thing with Oil and Water pumps to prevent premature leakage. -Tom

Here ya go. They are indeed darker orange than this photo shows. They look factory amber, even with the lights on. I am also running Amber 194s to richen the color more, Looks great in person!

Yep, Turbo and XT6 cars will be 25 spline (Same applies to newer Subarus as well) Non-Turbo are 23 spline like Tom said. The Hubs are 30 spline btw.

Its not the driver lol. It bucks at 4000rpm on the interstate too! It bucks ALL THE TIME under light throttle. I think this motor is junk. Time to swap in an SPFI EA82 :-p

I realize that, I left it in 3rd to see what it would do. If the motor would not buck under that type of load or if it would still buck. Answer was, it does not buck under load. I did do something productive today...

I should note, I do not have the vapor light hooked to anything, its open (Into the engine bay) I dunno how to run it? I tried running it into the air cleaner, but it started sucking fuel out of the line, not a lot, but the air cleaner plate and filter were wet. What am I suppose to do with the vapor/vent coming out of the firewall? Also, the other line is a return, correct? I have that capped off.

Okay, I did exactly like you said. I started at 3 turns out and adjusted the throttle holder screw. Fired it up, fired up great, let it warm up. It was idling a little rough, so I adjusted it to 3-1/2 turns out, drove it around, drives better than it did, so I came back and adjusted it a fraction more, idles really good. Drove it around, adjusted it out a little more. So right now, it is adjusted to 3-3/4 turns out. Idles great, just off idle with little bit of clutch (Like backing up) smooth and nice. But I still have bucking, sometimes its not as bad, sometimes it feels like the car is humping you lol. Here is a senario, slowing down to turn onto a side street, left it in 3rd with clutch out, RPMs are about 1500rpm entering the turn, come out of the turn feed normal amount of throttle, one little buck and then it smoothed out (Little boggy because of such a big gear) once the load became less on the motor (At about 20mph in 3rd) the bucking started unless you give it more throttle. I'm gonna leave the adjustments where they are for now. Jon, maybe your dad can make some sense out of this.