TheLoyale

I think thats the cleanest EA81 I've seen. Theres no oil leakage!? Did you clean it, or what?

Flat-6! Really...? Oh boy, this should be interesting.

Its in better shape than yours in the sense that is has no dents. But the rust is iffy on it. The lower, rear most section of the fender is gone and there is some moderate surface rust around the wheel arch. I suppose you could always section both fenders together and make one nice fender (I forgot how the rust is on yours?) Here is what mine looks like. (Best pictures I could find)

Interesting. Are these the Amber Fog lights? Can you post a pic for fun? We all like pictures :-p

Digging the '92 Legacy!

Scooter, I have been looking at the Accessory brochures from the 80s and non of them show Roll bar lights, or even brush guard lights. Its possible the dealer could have added lights on some, maybe more for the Australian market and not so much for the U.S. Either way, I will keep digging and see if I can find anything to help you out. -Tom

IPF is the Brand. Its an Aussie brand IIRC. They are used a lot on Landcruisers. They are kinda a subsidiary of ARB. http://www.quadratec.com/showcases/ipf_lighting_lenses_bulbs/

Alright, well that won't be any good. I just dropped a new Disty into the EA81. I remember GD saying something about the MSD coils, as they are oil filled if I remember right, so you can not lay them on their side. I also remember him saying they will burn out the Regulator over time (Few years) Thanks for the replies, I just repainted the original coil/bracket for the restoration.

Is that a lifted Forester in the Background or have I been token on some bad shiz?

Cool, yeah! Hell, if ya need a hand turning a wrench, I'm always down for some Subaru shenanigans. Maybe I can drive the '83 Ski wagon down once I get it buttoned up :cool:

That is pretty cool, and the pictures do help! I may try this some time!

Thats looking good! We're gonna have to have an old gen meet sometime!

Some pics of the disc swap for you, since neither link provides them anymore. Caliper Bracket All the bits you'll need. (Minus the Fuel Pump lol)

Welcome aboard! Glad these links have already been posted, otherwise I would have posted them. Rear disc swap is a bolt on upgrade and is straight forward (As long as you have all the parts) Backing Plate Caliper Bracket Caliper Wheel Hub/Spindel Rotor Disc I have pictures of the disc swap I did on my '83 GL. The rear disc conversion parts will be found on all Turbo EA82s from 1985-88 (Which is the same bodied car as the Loyale 1985-1994) Also XT Turbo will have rear disc, but do not get the XT and XT6 confused with each other. They are both the same bodied car (Wedge style) but the XT sports a 1.8 EA82 MPFI Flat-4 (Some Turbo, some non-Turbo) and the 4x140 wheels. The XT6 has the ER27 MPFI Flat-6 and 5x100 wheels/hubs. These will not work unless you go with a complete 5-lug swap (Which is a whole other can of worms) The USRM is a good place to check out, as there are a lot of Retro-fit threads there. But not everything is there. Feel free to ask questions and enjoy the site! -Tom

I jumped on this! I WANT!!!! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=136607

You've got it. :cool:

Haha... With a larger lift, yes dropping both the engine and trans crossmembers (Along with rear trailing tube, carrier bearing and Radius rods) is the way to go. But with the 2" you can drop the engine with 1" blocks and that will give you more travel with the axles. Without the 1" spacer blocks, when you jack the car up, the axles are pretty much resting on the crossmember where the control arm bolts in. Using the blocks should give you a little more movement and maybe a gap between the axle shaft and crossmember. Sorry for the Hijack Bill!

It wouldn't hurt to drop the engine down 1" to lower the angle of the front axles, nothing would need to be extended for a 1" drop.

The only thing you get with the SJR kit, would be from crossmember drop blocks, they are 1" rectangle stock. But no, nothing else. I suppose the added cost is that SJR CNCs his parts for a cleaner cut, and he has to cut his logo into everything

Can I swap my SPFI EA82 Coil on to my Carbed EA81? Is the SPFI coil any different than the Carbed coil? I am guessing the SPFI coil may be higher output, is this going to be an issue? Cheers, -Tom

Nope, the front strut tops on the EA81 chassis use two mounting bolts. The EA82 use 3 like more current Subarus. Like this: The rear might actually be the same, you'll need two pieces of 45* bent flat stock. Like this: EA82 bodied car. Here is a general idea as to what you'd get with the kit (This one is made by another member, but costs 3x as much) Bill's kits are well made, I've seen one in person, and would go with the BOSS kit over the SJR next time.

You can thank McPherson and a Flat-4 motor for its nifty handling in the twistys.

Got the Flywheel back today. $40 for the machine work. Used blue loc-tite on the Flywheel bolts, and just torqued the pressure plate bolts. Motor back in, clutch and hill holder adjusted.

My 3AT 4WD with 27s and roofrack still gets decent mileage, went all the way to MI from WI and used maybe 2 tank fulls roundtrip. Mind you I was running at 4100rpm most of the way. So a FWD 3AT Sedan would actually get rather decent mileage, I'd say mid-20s with full tune up.

The rear axles are in a way, under less stress, as with the 2" kit, the angle isn't horrible (Even with the wheels off the ground/suspension at full travel) Since the rear axles don't have to pivot and turn like the front CVs. And yes, rear axles are harder to come by. You cannot buy them new as far as I know, unless you want to drop $250 for one at the dealer. Yeah I think Bill is still offering the smaller kits. I'd PM him -Tom