TheLoyale

Ah, very good sir.

That is not a GM mirror. That is a mirror from a newer Subaru, forgot what year.

So I'm looking at Grant wheels. Anybody have pictures of aftermarket steering wheels installed on their EA81? Grant This is a Spec-D wheel, I like this one a lot, but not with the red stitching. If it were black or blue it would be better. http://www.ebay.com/itm/JDM-PVC-LEATHER-RACING-330MM-STEERING-WHEEL-HUB-ADAPTER-COMBO-/300794960616?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4608c6dae8&vxp=mtr

A Turbo is gonna be more easy. But a Super charger is cool!

Here is the repainted pump reservoir. It is "New Ford Gray" by Dupli-color Engine enamel Ceramic. Put the Loyale grill back on for the mean time, as I sent my red RX grill to Bennie in Victoria in trade for the Lights

Yeah I would like to get the graphics remade after the body work if finished and the car is painted. Here is the NOS fenders and hood I picked up from Neil in Minnesota friday, thanks again bud! Original hood after welding holes shut and repainting with $0.97 paint haha!

This turned out very nice, like seeing the car through all the different stages!

I like it too. Most of those on NASIOC say it is an abomination Lol. I think it looks good, just needs a better bumper, more flat, no so duck bill. :-p

JesZek, NOS means "New Old Stock" which is a Genuine part that has been discontinued, but has been sitting around since it was made. Here is the one I bought off ebay. The amber part looks brighter than the nice set Bennie got for me. I'm wonder if there were two different styles of this corner light? http://www.ebay.com/itm/230823830219?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 Bennie, thanks for the info on the King springs. So front Honda springs is still the way to go for better load bearing springs in the rear. Very well. We'll see in which direction I go once I start digging into this car again As for the light, I wasn't really looking for two sets. But since I ran across that one on ebay, I couldn't resist in buying it :-p

I've also ran across these on ebay... Anybody have info about these? http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-L-SERIES-LEONE-WAGON-1985-1994-Standard-King-Springs-KFFS-45-Front-/270985518308?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f17fedce4&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-L-SERIES-LEONE-WAGON-1985-1994-Standard-King-Springs-KSRS-03-Rear-/270985518599?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f17fede07&vxp=mtr

Yes I am pretty excited to finally have them on their way! I think it is probably going to be a dead end with contacting Subaru of Japan for these. I was also able to find a NOS version of this light on ebay tonight for $25 out of Israel. Now I just need to find another passenger side light, and I will have two sets. If I am able to get two sets together, perhaps you would be interested in a set for your subie?

I will get some pics of the painted reservoir Bennie in Australia has found me a set of these! Thank you mate.

Yep, as I wire wheeled it, and the metal was scared behind the corroded surface. I'm wondering if these are galvanized, and that coating has worn off in some spots causing mine to rust?

I did notice that as I was stripping the paint down. Mine had some rust on it though, hmm? You seem to have all the good parts

If you are swapping it from FWD 3AT to 4WD 3AT, then the Transmission will bolt right in, the wiring should all be there from the factory. I don't think the Tranny TCU is any different, as the 4WD engages via solenoids so the clutch packs lock up which engages the center drive shaft. The rear suspension tube arms you can still reuse. All you have to do it replace the 2WD rear brake drum with one from a 4WD car (There are splines in the center of the drum) remove the cap from the rear of the arm, so you can slide the axle through, put your drum on, tighten the axle nut and you should be good to go in the rear. I'm not sure if the Fuel tank was changed from FWD to 4WD on the EA82 chassis. I know it was on the EA81 chassis, so you might need to get a 4WD Fuel tank to compensate space for the rear diff. Thats just a quick run down without getting to intricate with the details. -Tom

Swapping it to 4WD ain't hard if you ever get tired of the FWD.

A Double flaring tool. Any Auto parts stores will have them, it basically sandwiches the brake line in between two pieces of cast steel, then you use two fittings which will press onto the end of the line, first one will make a bubble style, that is to thicken the end so you can then add the double flare. Flaring is kinda tricky, brake lines like to split/crack easily under stress. This is the typical style you will find at parts stores. They work, okay, but need some practice. http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pc-Brake-Air-Line-Double-Flaring-Tool-Kit-Set-Tool-Automotive-Repair-Flare-/110963594385?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d5f21491&vxp=mtr I've used this one from Eastwood, is makes flares so damn nice, but it should for $250 http://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html Personally, I hate working with brake lines, no matter how many times I do it, I hate it lol!

There is a metal brake line right now, which connects to your wheel cylinder. The bend in it will not work with the disc calipers, you will have to either use a pipe cutter, and cut it off, then re-double flare the line, and run a soft line to the caliper. The flared end will look like this. I don't have a good picture of where it connects to the caliper. I will get you a good picture tomorrow.

Glad you found the guild. Yeah its basically, take off the old stuff and put on the new. You can't mess it up You will have to change the hard metal line which would connect to the old wheel cylinder, as it will not have the correct bend in it to screw into the new caliper. (At least mine didn't)

Finished hooking everything up today, and decided to fire it up (WITH NO HEADER!) Its actually not that loud, surprisingly. The EJ22 was louder with no header. Fired right up first thing and runs just as good as it did before I pulled it, tested the clutch a little, the friction point seems closer to the floor which is nice, can't wait to build a header and drive it!

Ordered a new PS Pump. $74. Removed the old one today, so I can repaint the reservoir and metal pressure line.

Here you go. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-1976-1989-1600-1800-OHV-EA71-81-Weber-Carb-Kit-32-36-DGEV-electric-choke-/271031988014?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASubaru&hash=item3f1ac3ef2e&vxp=mtr If you do go this route, and have any questions or want pictures of a clean swap, I have pics I should also add. You will need to hook the PCV hose to the base of the new air cleaner the kit comes with. I have pictures of how I did that as well. I spent a lot of time on mine to make it look factory and clean (I hate hack jobs!)

Weber swap kit? You'll be looking for the Weber 32/36 DGEV (Electronic Choke) Ebay has complete GENUINE kits with the manifold adaptor for about $319. That is where I got mine. Real easy to hook up. All you'll need to hook up to make it run is: Fuel Line (You will need a different Fuel filter in the engine bay as you only need one thats an "In and Out"as you will not use the vent line. You will also not use the Return line) Electronic Choke Wire Disty Vac Advance to the front of the carb (Block off the 2nd port on the carb) HVAC hose to any port on the intake manifold Brake Booster hose to the large port on the driver side of intake And thats it. You can leave the EGR bolted to the intake, just don't hook it up. It will act as its own block off plate. You can then remove all the emissions stuff (Canister, Afterburn valve ect..) I'll find a link for the kit for ya.

Swap it to rear disc like I did! You're front calipers will thank you :-p As for Adjustments, if this is the stock Hitachi carb, you are better off doing a weber swap, gain more power/reliability, rid the engine bay of all that Emissions crap and make it super clean and simple