TheLoyale

Could the ECU be malfunctioning? May sound dumb, but you don't have the green or white terminals connected under the hood, do you? I know I know, thats like 101 :-p

I never thought of that. But! If I remember right, there is a sensor on the throttle pedal arm, and when it is pressed to the floor, the sensor grounds out and tells the ECU/TCU that you are WOT and will keep the transmission from shifting until redline or until you left off the throttle a little. Perhaps that has went bad with age on our cars.?

Lol! Gotta love that 3AT! I'm really surprised it went to redline before shifting. Mine won't, even to the floor, it'll shift about 5500rpm. EDIT: I see you popped it in 2 and then shifted to drive. Gotcha...!

Yes do it, its not really needed. You might still throw a code even with the O2 Bung, but if you run a UEL header you may also throw a PO420 code. It doesn't effect how it runs, but the light is annoying. Go for it!

If you do, I will take you up on the offer!

Doesn't the 5 flashs continuous, mean the system is clear? With that much advance you could run some E85 mixed with standard fuel to boost octane. The Impreza guys do this, I just found out.

Alright, who has a Brake switch they don't need. Perhaps I can trade you something I may have? I'm not sure if one from an EJ chassis would be the same? If it is! I can go grab one locally. I gave mine away with the Deal Cruise by mistake.

Heli-Coil has saved my life more than once! Make sure once you installed the Heli-Coil insert, that you use a needle-nose and break off the tap before hand before threading the spark plug in (Don't want that little tap sitting on top of the piston) I want to see some pics of this wagon, damn.

Thanks for the post, I checked out what was posted in that thread.

So here is what I found. While I had it running, I unhooked the battery, Ran the same. Hooked it back up. I than tested the voltage coming from the output of the alt, 14v+ and increases with RPM goes almost to 15v. After I unhooked the battery, and hooked it back up, I no longer have any dash lights flickering, they are all off. The red square on the voltage gauge is still lit up, is this normal? I know with Toyota, when the red square is lit up, that means there is an issue with the charging system, does this hold true to Subaru as well? Voltage gauge is steady around 13v.

This is interesting, I am having a similar problem. My Brake Fluid, Stop Lamp and Hand brake indicators are all lit up on the dash (Dimly while running) I have no Voltage indicator illuminated, and the volt gauge is reading average voltage, which fluctuates with the turn signals on (Like a typical Subaru) I am going to check it out, and see what I find. I will post back with any helpful info.

Guess I can't check the brake switch, as I have no brake switch. I must have gave it away with the Dealer installed Cruise Control. Boo! Actually, non of the connectors are corroded on this car, everything is in top shape electrical wise. I have gone over most of the terminals with Dielectric grease to insure no moisture persists in future corrosion.

Anyone think its a brake switch? How can I test it? The Brake light relay is the silver can on the rear passenger side, correct?

So what the hell. I have rear parking lights, but have no brake lights. I checked fuses and yes both filaments work (I tested the bulbs) Also my glove box light does not work!? Also, the Low Brake fluid light flickers when the car is running, and gets a little brighter when you rev it. Also the rear "Stop" indicator light is on, on my gauge cluster, along with a dim Parking brake light (Gets brighter when you pull the parking brake) WTF is going on with this shiz? The electrical in this car is clean and not cracked.

I love the headliner in the XTs, wish they made that style for the Wagons! I wouldn't mind putting XT seats in mine, given I can find a mint set that matches my interior somehow cause I am OCD-Anal!

Less gas would be the way to go with a slipping clutch, less likely to break friction. But yeah, indeed time for a clutch! MilesFox had an XT6 once, When he pulled the motor out, there was just a wad of metal shavings at the bottom of the bell housing, looked like Steel Wool. He was amazed that it still drove (Clutch disc was cracked and in horrible condition as was the throw-out bearing)

Finally.....! The moment has come.... After 5 months, I was able to drive the GL today! I took it around a few blocks a couple times, just messing around with it. I have this bucking/jerking when trying to cruise around 25mph with about 1/4 throttle, it drove like this when I bought it too, so what could it be? I wonder if the clutch is slipping, causing this feeling. But when I put my foot into it more 1/2 throttle, it smooths out, but if I compress the throttle over 1/2 the clutch starts to slip and will rev up. So, any ideas? Just a bad clutch disc? The clutch pedal feels average and there is no noise that I can tell. Guess my next item is a clutch kit, and possible resurfacing.

This is a family oriented site Tom! So please..... DETAILS!!! :-p Joking. Gonna get to meet some good ole' boys eh, right on!

Paint that nudge bar, please! Looks horrible. :cool:

Brakes work perfectly!

If you don't have testing by you, that code will not hurt how the car runs. I had that code on my Loyale for like 2yrs, until I couldn't stand looking at the light anymore.

Yes they go bad. I had to replace mine. I bought a new one from Subaru $50. Code has never come back.

Boo! yeah indeed its a longer flange for the EJ. Thanks for the pics!

Good lord, its a full house! (Granted most are moved out by now) At least there is one dude my age! Although, I always seem to hang out with people a decade (If not Three) older than me. I seem to relate to them more, old soul if you will.

Here you go.