TheLoyale

That is a great idea for the trailing arms!

I'm not sure about that. I can't seen to find gearbox specs for first gen Turbo legacys. The Final drive will be 3.900, but I don't know what each gear is.

Epic! Check engine light and all!!

It is a shame to see a Subaru taken apart, but this car is gonna be so much more awesome when it is done, its soooo clean, and such a clean install, it looks perfect!

I would keep the Phase-I EJ22E, its more bullet proof than the EJ25s of the Forester or Outbacks. The Forester will have a gear ratio of 4.44 if it is an Automatic. so you would need a matching rear diff. If you get a 5spd Forester transmission, it will have a gear ratio of 4.11 (Same goes for '96-'99 Outback) A 4.11 gear ratio with a 5spd gearbox will get you off the line quicker, but you will run slightly higher RPMs on the interstate. I'm not sure how much the gearing changes from first gen Legacy to first gen Forester. Forester might have a taller 4th gear. I won't know until I look it up. If anything, I would swap to a Turbo EJ22 for more power and torque for rally driving. EDIT: Here are the gears in your currant gearbox. Manual transmission gear ratios: 1st - 3.545 2nd - 1.947 3rd - 1.366 4th - 0.972 5th - 0.780 reverse - 3.333 final drive ratio - 3.90 Here are the gears in a 5spd '98-'01 Forester 2.5 Non Turbo 5 Manual 1st 3.454 2nd 2.062 3rd 1.448 4th 1.088 5th 0.780 Reverse 3.333 Transfer 1.000 Final 4.111

I hadn't seen this thread before! I am now looking forward to seeing some more of this car! It looks like a good start.

If this is a Legacy SS 5spd it will have 3.900 gearing with a VLSD rear. 4EAT will have a 4.11 gearing and open rear diff.

That is what I was figuring, the EA flanges look more "stout", if I may be so bold. I AM going to remove that spacer block that comes on the EA81s, since it will not be needed with the new header.

Indeed, I am dying to hear it as well. It should be a lot deeper and lumpier than with the stock header (Which is what I'm going for) As for the flanges, I'm looking for 2 flanges which will mimic the original flanges on the header. If anything, I guess I will cut one off and take it into a NAPA or such with me. Anyone know if Single-Port EJ flanges are the same as EA flanges?

I am going to be buying Mandrel bent 90s and a 45 in 1-7/8" from JC Whitney friday, I will then buy a length of 1-7/8" tubing from Fleet-Farm for $10, and the true UEL header build will begin! Need to find a place where I can get the proper header flanges that are nice and thick....

So basically, just wire up the cooling fan(s) the same way I wired up the Hella Supertones with the Relay. Alright, I think I got it now.

You would want an EJ25 block with EJ22 heads to make a High-compression motor for more torque. Dunno why you'd want to change the tail housing, as its probably the same depending on transmission. All 4EATs are the same give or take, they just have different gear ratios.

I would just adjust them to your liking. However you want it to sit and how you want it to handle. Just make sure each adjusting ring is even with the others. Its more a personal preference than a standard. -Tom

JesZek, thanks for the write-up! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=1079578&postcount=3

xbeerd! I call upon your help with wiring in a relay for the cooling fans. Relays confuse the hell outta me. Maybe you can help me turn the Marker lights into blinkers as well! Hook a brotha up Speaking of which, I gotta get some more money to Shawn soon for all the wonderful help the USMB has provided!

Looking at running one thin cooling fan like this. Perhaps I would run two, I'm just not sure if I can run both fans off the same circuit. Thinking of a 10" fan (Dunno what size are pictured)

Does this sensor tell the Transmission when to enter "Torque Converter Lock-up" to produce "Over-drive"? As Over-Drive usually engages at high-way speeds of 50-55mph+ with steady throttle.

Obsoletely! I always change oil when it is at operation temperatures (Motor oil, Gear oil, ATF) It surely helps remove more dirt when hot, that may not come out when the oil is cool.

OH MY! Those are some large chunks. That will sure clog a valve body, very happy you cleaned out the Transmission more indepth

Thats great how smooth it shifts now! I want to drop the Transmission pan on the Loyale and clean it out really well soon, perhaps even run SeaFoam Trans-Tune thru it. Did you add it to the already full ATF, or did you drain some of the ATF out to compensate for the SeaFoam? As for the needle shaking, I would suspect the speed sensor as well, is it Electronic or cable? I know the speedometer on the Landcruiser wiggles up and down when driving slower than 25mph, seems to be a common issue with them. Perhaps it is also common on the Kia?

Rabbit P-1 aka 1500 Check out the rear camber!

I guess by looking at the flywheel, it will determine what step I should take next. I would say the EA81 GL chassis is a pretty Madmax vehicle if you would, These require very little to keep going forever, even under extremes. Wonder if I can convert it to pig sh*t? :-p

Finished bending up the rear lines, and connected to the calipers. Just need the hydraulic hose which leads to the frame.

Thanks for telling me about this thread today! You got all that stuff for $100, wow. Yeah it is kinda sad there is not as much of a Market for the II's as there is for all the other Mustangs. That Blue coupe looked awesome! Thats just like my Mom had (Except Bright Yellow and 4cyl) Keep it up man!