TheLoyale

I looked at a '83 GL with a Hitachi at the boneyard today, indeed, the blue wire does run to the Choke. Guess I will use that Terminal to connect to the Weber (once I get get the terminals I ordered) Things needed to run: 1 Inline Fuel Filter (IN/OUT only, no Vent) 2 Vacuum Cap-off set 3 4ft of various vac line 4 Molded Coolant-bypass hose 5 Fuel Still need: 1 Clutch Kit 2 Brake Pads all around 3 Metal Brake line and Unions 4 Complete Custom made Exhaust/Header 5 Driver Side Axle

Had to change the Lower Metal trans cooling line today. Mine twisted off, as the tube was rusted to the slip joint. Got a clean one from a Calif. Loyale. No more leaking! Checked the rest of the car over for the Michigan trip next weekend. 3AT can do it, yes I can, yes I can!

Getting the diff in and out is pretty easy if you have patients. The Tube was the hardest on the GL because of the shear weight of it. Like trying to move a flipping engine around LOL!

Mine are like that on both the Loyale and GL. I just took apart the DOJs to get the diff out, then I dropped the tube assembly (brakes and all) You can also undo both Castle nuts, and pitch the diff side to side (Once unbolted and lowered) to slide the CVJs out of the bearings/trailing arms.

Huh, you can used Accord rear calipers too eh. Tricky part is finding on of those early 90s Accords with rear disc, most I've seen are drumb (Dumb) btw, there are a ************ ton of double edge razer blades under the rear seat if you need one. I used one today LMAO.

Lol indeed. I didn't think about the added torsion bs. Scott, after I took down and cleaned up my EA81 tube assy. I was thinking, "How the f******* did Scott do this him self on the Loyale!?" Haha. Pretty bad when the EA81 tube is laying on your head, and you can't move it. Then you start laughing, and ur Mom has to come pull it off you. I felt like a sissy man :-p Scott, I went to the JY today as you know. I would see about getting that tube pretty soon. They are starting to clear out sections of cars. Pretty soon that '83 Hatch will be gone. Boo!

I heard you on the homemade light bar for the bumper. The one on TW10 wasn't the bet, and the lights moved around a bit, but oh well. You would be right about the rubber mounting making it shake more, the Hellas on my roof rack shake all the time (Even stopped idling) gonna fix that and hard mount them. I see only the outers are lit up on yours (Normal) why all 4 of mine come on is bothersome. I don't see anything wrong or hacking of wires. Also, I see those fender mounted mirrors seem to work real good! Good view in the 2nd photo.

Those are some nice shots, need a high MP camera though for it to be outstanding! I like those Hellas, fits well. I actually need to get better offroad lights on the bumper now, since the HIDs overpower them, you can't even tell they are on (Boo!) Do your Hellas vibrate when you hit bumps, or are they rubber mounted?

This is pretty interesting. I've always wondered if there was a Badge on them stating the model/trim level. We have GL/DL/Brat, Would Aus/UK actually have a badge that says Brumby/MV? That would be cool.

I'm digging that Topper! Reminds me of a transit of sorts.

You are looking at about $55 w/o brakes. $70+ with brakes. Just tell them it is a rear dead axle (Which it is, since that '93 Loyale there is a 2WD) http://www.picknpull.com/part_pricing.aspx?LocationID=65&Language=English&NavItem=10&SearchCriteria=partpricing

This, He is talking about the whole flocking suspension tube assy. Good luck carring it out of the yard you self, the EA81 tube was a b*tch to put back up, even with 2 people and jacks lol..

The blue wire is for the choke eh, mine does not have any current running to it though? Only the Black wires. Guess I'll try it both ways, and see which wire I should use. So here is the Cable Bracket which I got today! That really works nice. I got these PCV T-connectors from an SPFI EA82. These will be used for my PCV lines, the Blue one has a restricted diameter inside, which will be perfect, as not to suck oil into the air cleaner. The black one is an unrestricted T-connector. I will be getting the Male spade terminals I ordered, next week. I will then buy some 22ga and make the connector for the choke!

Did you flock your dash?

Yes, those are the brakes. That is the way the FF-1s were, JesZek has rode in one of these, with that brake set up. Kinda cool

lil' something I made.

Its lookin' pretty good so far, some pre-facelift headlights will do it justice.

The seller I bought the kit from, is going to send me the Throttle cable bracket via Priority. He mailed it out today, and I have comfirmation. Maybe I'll get it by Saturday!

Repin' Subaru Alliance yo!

What the... Nice adjustable coilovers! Taiwan, thats a ways away :cool:

What I think I am going to do, to make the connection look more finished/factory is, get another Female end of this 3-spade male end, only use one spade in the casing, so it clips to the wire I want. This way it'll be plug'N play, and it'll be solid and finished. Guess I gotta hit the JY for the female connector (I don't have one)

So this is the only connector within reaching distance to where the original carb harness would have connected. It is a 3-spade terminal. Here is its location: I did a test, the Blue wire must be a ground as there is no voltage going to it with the key turned to "On" The 3 black/white wires have 11.98v to them with the key to ON. So does it matter which one I connect to the Webers Choke? I assume one of these wires was for the Anti-dieseling solenoid on the other carb. Just wanted to double check before I go and do something. lol

Alright that'll help track it down! Thanks. This is why I hate having stuff apart for months on end, you start forgetting stuff.

Ok, the pedal/Throttle seems to spring back like it should, I'll see how it is once its running, and ad a helper if needed. So am I dumb, or...? Where is my original Electroic choke wire? I've looked all over the engine bay, and don't remember what used to plug into the carb. None of the open connectors I've seen look like they were for the carb, so?

The throttle assy was already put together, and works smooth