davebugs

Looks like a DOHC. I just removed perfect covers to get at cam sprockets for another member. I have both ends inner and outer if you're interested in one drop me a PM. Some aren't badly priced new though.

Search HERE for BURPING!!! Subaru's are a bit different. There is even a utube video link here by a member. You're trying to be too lazy for your own good. If you're just gonna top it off and put a new cap on you're wasting the few bucks the rad cap is gonna cost and getting closer to the HG job. There is a 90% chance you need a HG job already. If you take the easy way out with a rad cap WITHOUT burping, or take the thermostat out, "miracle sealers". or similar "fixes" you're just heading to more overheat cycles and if you didn't already need a HG job you're on your way to a HG and rod bearings job which doesn't make sense to do in my opinion. And any 2.5 you buy at the JY is likely gonna have the exact same issues. That's why I usually 2.2 swap them.

All bad. How is rad fluid level? Read here about BURPING because if rad level is down at all and you're gonna try a new cap you're gonna need to drain the coolant to get it burped to have ANY chance of getting all the air out of the system. And if air is still in the system you're stil not gonna learn anything and are very likely to put another overheat cycle on the engine.

Stant is the most popular. But OEM is bast - again. OEM rad cap, thermostat and Head Gaskets or you're asking for trouble in my opinion.

You should search here a bit. Don't work. Clog the heater core, etc. Again Subaru 2.5 HG's are weird. They go "differently" than a normal HG.

If the coolant bottle is above the full line but hte radiator isn't full it's not a good sign. You can also look for oily residue in overflow tank. You won't see water in the oil - that's just not how 2.5 HG's fail. The 2.5's also don't seem to ever blow white smoke. If you keep driving it you'll ruin it for sure. But you may not realize that until after you've done the HG's and in a few thousand miles the rod bearings will start making noise. And just adding water doesn't work well. Search here for "burping" and you'll see why. Remember every heat cycle takes it closer to being unrecoverable.

If the coolant bottle was full after this happened welcome to the Head Gasket club!

That sounds electrical then if it's opposing cylinders. So go back to plugs, wires, coil pack. I don't know if an ignitor would cause a problem with just 2 cylinders. I do believe I have an ignitor around here that I can't lay my hands on right now.

Thats an improvement. I've scrapped cars with good (newer replaced) filler necks because I couldn't get those crappy slotted screws out and wasn't gonna take a chance at blowing up the garage to get jus tone part off the car. And the rubber gasket I spoke off keeps tension on those screws for a few turns. A bolt head is a definate improvement. I still always anti-seized them.

IIR there is a rubber gasket at the top where the flange that takes the 3 screws hits the body. It's easy enough to see which screws work. Do they look the same (diameter and thread pitch)?

Got mine new off Ebay years ago. I got the cheap 50.00 Orange one (may be cheaper now). Comes with a booklet and CD to install the software to look up the code (that you'll end up looking up onthe internet anyways). I purposely go tthis reader that only gives codes (the P9999). Because it fits in a jacket pocket. The one for another 20 bucks displayed a little more info but not enough to be real helpful anyways. It was my forst purchase on Ebay and saved me 20 bucks versus buying it at Advance Auto Parts at the time. Good luck - you're long overdue to get one.

Yea - helps some. Compression check? Originally you left out the fact that you chenged the timing belt. ANd it's easy to get worng (by using arrows) and also easy to not tighten crank bolt enough (a future problem). A compression check will help confirm the TB was done correctly, as well as other potential issues. OEM plugs? Diamond coil pack? Fancy plugs or the called for NGK's? Really 1&3 means it's probably got to do with that side head or timing belt actually. If it were electrical (plugs, coil pack, wires) any codes would be 1&2 or 3&4. The reason I asked you to put a useful location in your profile is that often members will stop in and help other members.

FIrst of all. Please put a STATE to go with your city. If you're positive it's not the plug wires or coil I have anonther question. Does it run a second or two then die? As in you forgot the stiff pipe that comes out of the empty airbox on the throttle body? Are you getting the codes to say 1&3 or is that a guess? Did you do the timing belt? Welcome to the USMB. Lots of good stuff here and a decent search function.

I have 3 of the plier type plastic clamps. BTW DOHC's are worse (twice as many cams). The cam you're having trouble with is loaded. Make sure the crank is at TDC by looking at the notch. I then sometimes "cheat" by clamping the TB to the cam sprockets with the clamps. The 3rd one is for the TB being help on the splined pulley at the crank (I also cut a hunk of old belt to put on the threads on the bottom to protect them). The crank won't turn so easily. So now that you have all 3 places that need lined up "clamped" it gets easier. Then personally I install the lower idler last after TB is strung. Then release tensioner. Them's my tips.

Don't truely know. I often use high temp stuff I put on my diesel glow plugs. I did have to pull the engine(s) in a 99 Forester a few years ago 3 times (bad engines - what a nightmare). I use it on all eng/trans bolts, engine supports, etc. Certainly can't hurt.

What he said. And it does make them sluggish. But usually it also sets a scannable code.

I just reuse them - whether the nut came off or the stud came out makes no difference - I just remember which hole they came out of. And I anti-seize the crap out of it!

NOT ARROWS!!!! Arrows will screw you. The hash marks. Unless I'm missing something here... dots and dashes....... always NEVER ARROWS

I have someone with this problem on a 98 Outback. Said they have had it several places and the last mechanic put it on the "computer" and said it's the trans. Hasn't stalled yet, but almost. I have never had a real problem with a Subaru trans (torque bind and bearing noise on a few manuals aside). So I believe they are taking it to my tranny guy. If we learn anything I'll post here.

I have used "filler" between band wrenches and the filter in the past - often cardboard. But after mangled and messy other thigs as well. In the end often the screwdriver method. By now you probably have the end already hosed. So try and get at the base. This way the leverage will also be more "true" to the threads. The times I have changed the ATF filter I was also doing the normal draining so I don't know how much you may loose. I usually figure 4 to 4.5 qts for a drain & fill without filter as a rule of thumb.

As John says. When I pull an engine I do it all. Reseal it all, new spark plugs, new clutch kit, TO bearing clips, TB components, etc. Never gonna be easier if you're gonna keep the car any length of time. It makes the most sense to me to do it all and be done with it. Some folks here like to save a few bucks and do partial. But that makes no sense to me personally. Labor/time and the convenience of knowing when it will be done and planning for it versus waiting for something to break makes it a no brainer for me. Get Ebay kit from theimportexperts for TB stuff. They also have VC sets and stuff. Others here have tried other Ebay kits with mixed results.

Totally up to you. Most here upgrade to metal plate and NEW screws are required. Often on high mileage cars shortly after I swap engines, do HG's whatever the clutch slave seems to fail. Inspect clutch, pressure plate, TO bearing and clips for sure. Even simple stuff like VC gaskets are easier and timing belt replacement.

Search here for "oil seperator" or "baffle plate". It's rarely the main seal (infact most of us purposely leave it alone)

Usually stays put. Unless you repositon the engine and there is tension as stated in one of my other posts due to tranny/engine not at same angle.

In my experience pretty common. In addition to being rusted, corroded/whatever if the trans to engine angle is off that can cause this. And what starts out as a "good angle" often changes when the weight of the engine is removed from the chassis if the car is setting on it's tires.