LiftedEA81

Seems like they all have been replaced now. Not sure how many more are on this motor, but i have a feeling i'll find out. Im not gonna put the 16lb cap back on if its faulty. The car doesnt overheat, it doesnt run warm. Only time it runs warm is when it blows a coolant line and all the coolant is drained, then of course, it warms up.

Like... im wondering if this activity is normal for coolant. Ive had problems with hoses bursting. Im assuming the pressure in my coolant system is building and the cap is not venting it off... but im wondering what could cause the system to build this much pressure in the 1st place. I just got done replacing the 3rd coolant line in 2 weeks, so after I refilled my coolant system, i let the car run and reach operational temperature. Everything seemed normal, until it warmed up and then it seemed to be pushing coolant out of the system instead of sucking it in, or leaving it at a normal level. If I revved the motor it would push coolant out faster, and after letting it idle again i would see it gurgle and then the level would drop. I then add more coolant and repeat the process. It seems if the car idles everything is fine, but if you rev the motor the coolant level rises and the coolant tank overflows... the coolant keeps flowing out of the tank until i let off the gas and it then stops. If the radiator fans kick on, immediately the coolant level drops and then I am forced to refill the coolant tank. Mind you, this is all on a 1993 Turbo Wagon, so the radiator has no cap, the only way to fill the system is through the coolant resivoir. I thought my radiator cap was faulty, so I bought another one. This one has a lever that you pull to vent the system before you remove the cap. It is also rated at 13lbs instead of 16lbs like my old one. So i filled the system, put the cap back on and took the car for a test drive around the block. Didnt go far, but I made sure to flog it as if I were driving on city streets. Getting the revs up into the 4000rpm range. When I got home I removed the cap from the Overflow tank, and lifted the lever on the cap for the resivoir. The level on the overflow tank immediatly started to rise and overflow... then as soon as the pressure had been released I removed the cap on the resivoir and noticed it was real low. So I filled it and as soon as it reached full, the car started to gurgle and the coolant began to overflow from the resivoir. So yeah... i dont know if this is normal or not. But Im sure if its building pressure this fast, driving it 1hr each way from home to work is enough to blow another line. And I kinda expect to be replacing my 4th coolant line next weekend >:\ Whats everyone think?

Dang... a SOA part number and everything. How much did that set you back? I bought a replacement O2 Sensor from Napa, it was bosch and I think i paid $33 for it.

They burst. They dont pop, or become disconnected. They burst. The 1st hose that went had a nice 2" gash in it. The 2nd one that went split in two. The 3rd one... well, i dunno cause im so frusterated the car has just sat in the garage since. Granted, they are old hoses, and i expect something like this to happen. But for three of them to go, 2 to 3 days apart from eachother just seems like more than a coincidence. And I would love to replace them all... but there are ALOT of hoses on a EJ22T. Some I would have to remove the engine to get to.

Seems like every 2 or 3 days Im blowing a coolant bypass line. 1st it was the line that lead from my coolant resivoir to my turbo. Then as soon as I get that replaced, 3 days later I blow a line leading from the coolant passage to the manifold. Today (3 days later) on my way to work, i blew yet ANOTHER coolant line. This one runs on the passenger side of the car, looks like it comes from a hard line to the bottom of the block. WTF?? Any idea why all these lines are blowing? Im wondering if my radiator cap is faulty, and not relieving pressure? I guess I'll replace that when I do this 3rd line.

What are ya gonna be doin for 3 days in the bay?

Jonas, i was going to tell you about this but then forgot. When i had my weber installed, i didnt have the bracket for the throttle cable. What i did was goto the junkyard, and got another stock bracket and removed it from the intake manifold. Then I bolted that to the top of the bracket on my hatchback. IT worked perfectly and raised the mounting location for the throttle cable enough to work for the weber. To take up the slack, i just bent the extension alittle until it fit snug.

The only special tool i've ever had to use: Oh, and to remove the pin use a 3/16" punch.

There is a rod that connects the motor to the firewall. That is your pitch stopper... you need to find a way to install it there.

Standard=stock. Sorry.

No one has said it, so i guess i'll be the 1st. The ONLY subaru to have come stock from the factory with a LSD is the RX, 87+ models. They are ALL 3.7 ratio. The other subaru to have come stock with a LSD was the 1991 Legacy Turbo 5spd (not automatics) and those are 3.9 VLSD's. LSD's were an option for Subarus 1987 and beyond, however not many opted for the option. THere is speculation that in 1989 All Turbo GL10 Wagons with Full Time 4WD 5spd's came stock with LSD's, however I have seen 2 (the only 2 ive seen in person) that both had open diff's. Had to be said. Rob was right, no EA81's ever came from the factory with a LSD.

Yeah Jonas, i bought a weber air filter assembly new off ebay. Pretty cheap, sorry i didnt include one but the one i Had was pretty bad and you would be much better off with a new setup. Glad your happy with the weber.

That thing looks sweet. Is it out of a EA82? or EA81?

Yes, go get PB Blaster. It will make the job 1000x easier. The bolts you will be removing have been under your car for 20 years, subject to all kinds of nasty road grime. If you strip one of the threads while removing the bolt, you will fight it when you gotta install the block. The 1st time I did a lift install, i had to use a tap to chase some of the threads in the body so the bolts would hold.

And for the calculator challenged, if you wanted to add 10% to your milage, just punch in your milage in a calculator and multiply by 1.10. If you wanted to do 20%, just multiply by 1.20 and etc...