LiftedEA81

Seems like they all have been replaced now. Not sure how many more are on this motor, but i have a feeling i'll find out. Im not gonna put the 16lb cap back on if its faulty. The car doesnt overheat, it doesnt run warm. Only time it runs warm is when it blows a coolant line and all the coolant is drained, then of course, it warms up.

Like... im wondering if this activity is normal for coolant. Ive had problems with hoses bursting. Im assuming the pressure in my coolant system is building and the cap is not venting it off... but im wondering what could cause the system to build this much pressure in the 1st place. I just got done replacing the 3rd coolant line in 2 weeks, so after I refilled my coolant system, i let the car run and reach operational temperature. Everything seemed normal, until it warmed up and then it seemed to be pushing coolant out of the system instead of sucking it in, or leaving it at a normal level. If I revved the motor it would push coolant out faster, and after letting it idle again i would see it gurgle and then the level would drop. I then add more coolant and repeat the process. It seems if the car idles everything is fine, but if you rev the motor the coolant level rises and the coolant tank overflows... the coolant keeps flowing out of the tank until i let off the gas and it then stops. If the radiator fans kick on, immediately the coolant level drops and then I am forced to refill the coolant tank. Mind you, this is all on a 1993 Turbo Wagon, so the radiator has no cap, the only way to fill the system is through the coolant resivoir. I thought my radiator cap was faulty, so I bought another one. This one has a lever that you pull to vent the system before you remove the cap. It is also rated at 13lbs instead of 16lbs like my old one. So i filled the system, put the cap back on and took the car for a test drive around the block. Didnt go far, but I made sure to flog it as if I were driving on city streets. Getting the revs up into the 4000rpm range. When I got home I removed the cap from the Overflow tank, and lifted the lever on the cap for the resivoir. The level on the overflow tank immediatly started to rise and overflow... then as soon as the pressure had been released I removed the cap on the resivoir and noticed it was real low. So I filled it and as soon as it reached full, the car started to gurgle and the coolant began to overflow from the resivoir. So yeah... i dont know if this is normal or not. But Im sure if its building pressure this fast, driving it 1hr each way from home to work is enough to blow another line. And I kinda expect to be replacing my 4th coolant line next weekend >:\ Whats everyone think?

Dang... a SOA part number and everything. How much did that set you back? I bought a replacement O2 Sensor from Napa, it was bosch and I think i paid $33 for it.

They burst. They dont pop, or become disconnected. They burst. The 1st hose that went had a nice 2" gash in it. The 2nd one that went split in two. The 3rd one... well, i dunno cause im so frusterated the car has just sat in the garage since. Granted, they are old hoses, and i expect something like this to happen. But for three of them to go, 2 to 3 days apart from eachother just seems like more than a coincidence. And I would love to replace them all... but there are ALOT of hoses on a EJ22T. Some I would have to remove the engine to get to.

Seems like every 2 or 3 days Im blowing a coolant bypass line. 1st it was the line that lead from my coolant resivoir to my turbo. Then as soon as I get that replaced, 3 days later I blow a line leading from the coolant passage to the manifold. Today (3 days later) on my way to work, i blew yet ANOTHER coolant line. This one runs on the passenger side of the car, looks like it comes from a hard line to the bottom of the block. WTF?? Any idea why all these lines are blowing? Im wondering if my radiator cap is faulty, and not relieving pressure? I guess I'll replace that when I do this 3rd line.

What are ya gonna be doin for 3 days in the bay?

Jonas, i was going to tell you about this but then forgot. When i had my weber installed, i didnt have the bracket for the throttle cable. What i did was goto the junkyard, and got another stock bracket and removed it from the intake manifold. Then I bolted that to the top of the bracket on my hatchback. IT worked perfectly and raised the mounting location for the throttle cable enough to work for the weber. To take up the slack, i just bent the extension alittle until it fit snug.

The only special tool i've ever had to use: Oh, and to remove the pin use a 3/16" punch.

There is a rod that connects the motor to the firewall. That is your pitch stopper... you need to find a way to install it there.

Standard=stock. Sorry.

No one has said it, so i guess i'll be the 1st. The ONLY subaru to have come stock from the factory with a LSD is the RX, 87+ models. They are ALL 3.7 ratio. The other subaru to have come stock with a LSD was the 1991 Legacy Turbo 5spd (not automatics) and those are 3.9 VLSD's. LSD's were an option for Subarus 1987 and beyond, however not many opted for the option. THere is speculation that in 1989 All Turbo GL10 Wagons with Full Time 4WD 5spd's came stock with LSD's, however I have seen 2 (the only 2 ive seen in person) that both had open diff's. Had to be said. Rob was right, no EA81's ever came from the factory with a LSD.

Yeah Jonas, i bought a weber air filter assembly new off ebay. Pretty cheap, sorry i didnt include one but the one i Had was pretty bad and you would be much better off with a new setup. Glad your happy with the weber.

That thing looks sweet. Is it out of a EA82? or EA81?

Yes, go get PB Blaster. It will make the job 1000x easier. The bolts you will be removing have been under your car for 20 years, subject to all kinds of nasty road grime. If you strip one of the threads while removing the bolt, you will fight it when you gotta install the block. The 1st time I did a lift install, i had to use a tap to chase some of the threads in the body so the bolts would hold.

And for the calculator challenged, if you wanted to add 10% to your milage, just punch in your milage in a calculator and multiply by 1.10. If you wanted to do 20%, just multiply by 1.20 and etc...

Yeah, the cap has marks where it wont fit the distributor incorrectly. The solution i came to was to just give up and part the car out.

Hey newbie... these cars dont have timing belts or chains. The Disty is ran straight from the crank, which also runs the cam.

Yeah, already done all that. Plugs were the 1st thing I changed (even before all the carb work). The Weber is on the workbench, the hitachi is back on. The plug wires are new, i even thought they were faulty and put in the old wires and still no change. The car sat with the tank empty, it has a half tank of fresh fuel. Im wondering if maybe i have a bent valve or pushrod or some internal engine damage? I cant think of anything that would make the car backfire through the carburator.

I have checked, rechecked, double rechecked and checked again. My plug wires are correct. The disty seems to be in pretty good shape, gears arent worn or damaged.

Well, i took the distributor out, advanced the rotor 2 teeth, re-installed and it fired up It cranks over, then it sounds like its about to backfire through the carb or fire and sieze, then it roars to life. Driving it, theres no extreme pinging, but when i attach my timing light I still cant find any timing marks.

So my car has been sitting in the garage for months. It used to run great, even made a 900mile round trip with no problems at all. When i came home from my trip, i let the car sit for maybe a month and then decided to use it to drive to work. The car would not start. It would backfire through the carb, but would not fire over whatsoever. I thought maybe it was my weber carburator so I removed it and re-installed my hitachi but that did no good at all. The car would turn over and if it tried to fire at all the motor would just sieze like it was firing way prematurely. I screwed with the timing, and it didnt get any better. So I removed the distributor and advanced it a tooth, re-installed and was able to get the car to fire. It would run, but ran like crap. Using my timing gun i couldn't locate any timing marks, so i knew it was WAY out of time, but it was the only way to get it to run. Today I went back into the garage to mess with it. I set CYL #1 to TDC and removed the distrubitor. I reset the distributor using the marks and re-installed. Turned over the motor and it seems like i'm back at square one. Is there anything I might have overlooked? Im at my wits end, and the weather is perfect for some wheelin!