Yukonart

Also, make sure your tire pressure is matched from one side to the other. If one tire's got a few less pounds of pressure, that can definitely cause a little bit of pull, depending on speed.

Hmmm. . . I'd get a second opinion from another dealership, if possible. And if there was/is a leak, then I'd talk to the insurance company and the place where the car was repaired to see what can be done about it.

Kenwood DDX7015 2-DIN DVD head unit Kenwood Music Keg Diamond Audio D5 600.4 (150x4) amplifier Diamond Audio D5 1200.1 (1200x1) amplifier Monster Audio Monster Cap (1 farad) Diamond Audio M661 Components up front Diamond Audio M361 Coaxials in rear Diamond Audio M6 12DV4 12" subwoofer Custom sealed fiberglass sub enclosure Monster Cable XLN Pro interconnects x 3 Monster Cable distribution block, circuit breaker and fuses x2

Yes, but WHERE was the car hit? Side? Front end? It's possible, depending on where it was hit, that the engine mounts could have bent and tranny fluid could have been leaking from the bell housing since then.

You can also check out the Interior forum at www.legacygt.com Someone up there managed to successfully integrate an Ipod into their factory system.

The "best" one would be the fully closed-deck turbo blocks. Strongest ones out there.

Haven't seen anything out for the 2005s yet. . . . . . and your post would be MUCH easier to read if you didn't capitalize every single freaking word.

Bridgestone Potenza RE950s. . . . or Pirelli P-ZERO Nero M+S would be my two recommendations. Both are EXCELLENT all-season performers.

Joe Spitz (Internet sales manager at Carter Subaru in Seattle) will beat that deal to hell. Give him a call. . . he'll take care of you.

Whoah whoah whoah. . . . DO NOT remove your turbo. Intake changes aside, the turbo is what breathes life into your engine! Removing the intake silencer has but one purpose. . . to make the intake LOUDER. This will make the turbo spooling easier to hear, and the reciculation of air, via a bypass valve, louder as well. You will see absolutely ZERO power gians from this mod. It's merely meant to "enhance" the driving experience by making things your engine's already doing easier to hear.

Sweet! Have any BIGGER pictures?

WOW, very fortunate. However, when you get a chance, you'll want to remove that rear bumper cover and make sure the bumper beam isn't f'd-up. The urethane does a good job of bouncing back and hiding real damage. Seems like the kind of project to do while at Tex's house, too. . . taking stuff apart.

Well. . . if this is any indication . . . I'm selling my STi and buying a Legacy GT wagon any day, now.

One thing you CAN do in the way of suspension is get parts for a 92-94, and get new tophats for the rear struts. That way, you can at least lower it, and change out the struts if you want.

Pretty much anything you do in the way of power mods for an STi is going to require some kind of engine management. For that reason, just starting power mods can be a little pricey. It's one of the reasons I opted to modify my suspension and a few other things, instead.

What size will you be running? I have a set of Bridgestone Potenza RE750s on my car and swear by them. A slightly more all-season alternative would be the RE950s. Very competitively-priced, they offer a fairly agressive tread patter, evacuate water very well, and will get you through the snow if need be. They're not overly-loud, and have an excellent treadwear rating. I have no experience with the other two tires you listed. However, I think you'd probably be happier with a set of RE950s over the Turanzas.

Could be a bad/broken tranny mount. Between shifts, the engine will rock a bit until it engages with the transmission again under load. . . . if there's a bad mount, it'd probably knock during this movement.

Well. . . after any emergency (or other hard condition) stop, it's best not to stay on the brake pedal. Right after that is when the pads are cooking, and keeping them in contact with the rotors WILL eventually warp them. If you must brake hard, let-off the brakes if you can to let the pads and rotors cool before stopping completely. Or, if you're in an automatic, you can pull over and put it in "park" without setting the parking brake. The transmission will keep you from rolling anywhere, and you'll not be keeping the pads pressed against the rotors while everything's cooling-off. If you have to replace your rotors, you may want to consider upgrading to a design that will cool-down faster than your OEM ones.

The relays should be behind the fusebox.

I'd check to make sure you have good grounds. Do your headlights dim at night with the signals on, too? Alternator might also not be putting out enough power to run your electrical AND charge the batter. Can throw a voltmeter on there and check to be sure, though.

Try Pick A Park near the airport. . . if memory serves, I remembered seeing many Loyales there when helping Laurel find parts for her Legacy a few months back. If they've got any, I'm sure the parts you'll need will be quite inexpensive.

SVX

Resource Officer?

True, but you track your car. . . more than 99.9999999% of girls everywhere do with their cars.

I'm with Ricahrd on this. . . go to a real dealership for a used Subbie. . . or buy one from a loving previous owner. Also very true is the fact that the 2004s are almost being given away at many dealerships with the introduction of the 2005s. In fact, I wouldn't be too surprised if you were able to get a 2004 with NO MILEAGE for UNDER INVOICE if you play your cards right. Not to mention the factory to dealer incentives on the 2004s and the low interest rates on ner car loans associated with them. Might even get one for less than the rental agency is asking for their abused model.