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P K I would be wary of ovalizing the flex plate holes. Mainly b/c the flex plate is a lot thinner than the flywheel. It might be safer to have a piece of steel w/the right holes welded to the flex plate. I know that the EJ autos have a small metal plate that fits on the crank along with the flex plate. I have one lying around somewhere in my garage, if you are going forward with this give me a call and I can send it to you. BW

if you are putting the EJ18 in a BRAT there is more then enough power. i was getting 4 wheel spinouts on 28 inch tires in 4 wheel low. In terms of ECUs, the EJ18 will run the EJ22 w/o any problems. If you end up with an EJ22 ECU, you can bolt the knock sensor onto the shortblock. The time spent doing a port and polish on the EJ18 is probably not worth it. You are starting w/a 119 hp motor. If you eventually got an EJ22 you would be looking at 140 hp. I would do the swap, then get yourself an EJ22 and port and polish it. Also if you are not in a hurry I have a set of EJ22T heads I could sell you. Not sure of what that will do to the compression ratio, but I am sure it would lower it more than a standard EJ22 head. It also have the tubing for the water and oil already there. Send me a PM if you are interested in that. BW

welcome fellow socal-anite PK Davis is in your neck of the woods. Great guy with a lot of old school soobie knowledge and info. XT6 huh? is it the FT4wd one or the FWD one. let me know if there are any parts that you need. I go scrounging at the local PAP about once a month. BW

if you need more specifics, list year of both cars and I can help with what wires to connect. BTW CONGRATS ON PASSING SMOG

it's a dual port exhaust. Headerwise, anything made for a dual port exhaust will work. for the rest of the bits, I don't know of any full exhaust kit that is made specifically for the EJ18. In terms of performance, the diameter for an EJ25 exhaust might be too big for efficient scavengering. BW

Go to the built motor section on NASIOC for info on hybrid turbo motors. The shortblocks for the entire EJ series are essentially the same in dimensions. It's the cylinder diameter that determines EJ18, EJ20, EJ22 or EJ25. I have a 96 EJ25 shortblock mated to 00 EJ22 heads. Ran no problems. Before undertaking this project, try to determine your skill level, your need for reliable transportation, and how much money you want to spend. USMB is good for EJ swaps into the older EA cars, lifting sobbies and for great camaraderie. NASIOC and RS25 are better for the 1993-2001 chassis cars L8TR

First things first. Welcome to USMB. Ok. The Legacy engine crossmember is needed so that the turbo uppipe will fit. The crossmember is notched to allow for the uppipe to fit. I am not sure if the legacy crossmember is the same width as the Impreza crossmember. You could probably find a turbo crossmember from a GC chassis, have the existing crossmember notched or reroute the uppipe. You will be putting an OBDI engine into an OBD2 car. So you have a few options in terms of getting the engine to run. The quick and dirty option is to trim an EJ22T harness to and then splice in the wires that are needed to make it run. It is possible to use an EJ22 OBD1 harness with slight modifications. You would use the OBD1 EJ22T ECU in this application. There are less than a dozen wires that need to be spliced and your will have your existing harness intact should you want to return to stock in the future. If you have to smog your car this is probably not the option you want do go with b/c you will be running into world of smog-ability problems. Unless you pull the turbo motor w/the N/A motor every time you smog. One the other end of the spectrum, you can run the EJ22T with the OBD2 harness and ECU. IIRC the OBD2 EJ22 ECU can handle slight amounts of boost. I would research NASIOC and RS25.com to verify this. You would need to probably use the 98 heads on the EJ22t shortblock so that you have the OBD2 stuff on the intake manifold. You would also have to use the crank timing gear from the 98. EM would be needed if you are going to run it with med to high amounts of boost. Minimum monitoring would be a wideband O2 sensor, maybe an Exhaust Gas Temp sensor and of course a boost gauge. One theoretical solution is to get a WRX harness and ECU and use it to run the turbo. One step further would be to use EJ25 heads and intake. Remember, it’s the closed deck shortblock on the ej22t that’s valuable, Whatever you decide to do, also consider how much you will be spending. You could probably find a USDM WRX engine w/harness and ECU for 3k or so. Good Luck and have fun

PM sent w/my e-mail. I might be scrapping my crashed BRAT. I can send you the parts. Need picture of what you are need.

So I might have found a candidate to replace my 1982 BRAT. There is a 78 on CL with a blown headgasket. The engine is out and on an engine stand. The heads were removed and there is some damage to the cylinder sleeves at the mating surface. Two options regarding this vehicle…. Crabman was some engine bits for the EA71 that we could combine with the EA71 from the 78 and piece together a working motor. The other option is to take the EJ from my deceased BRAT and put it in. I read Zefy’s post about his EJ 1st gen swap and I see that he has to notch the frame rails in the front if you don’t lift it. Ohh. Last bit of info. I need to get this thing up and running as soon as possible b/c I will need to use it to do some light moving to the new house I am about to get so whatever I do, it will have to happen in one weekend. Thoughts…..comments? BW

he took it over to a shop to fix. Will post on what was going on. BW

I call BS on the crank being worn enough that you have to replace the entire engine. i had a crank pulley back out on me and I was able to roadside fix it w/some rubber washers and little bit of JB Weld. It's was still holding up fine until someone rear ended my BRAT. The crank pulley is there to turn your power steering, AC and alternator. It really doesn't have that much resistance and I doubt that it was worn enough to make a huge difference in the way that the crank pulley seats. Get a new pulley, replace the t-belts, tensioners, pulleys water pump and drive it for another 60K. A t-belt job in the EJs are pretty straight forward. and will cost about 300 bucks in parts. Down time is about a day, maybe two if you are doing it for the first time. If you do plan to tackle this, it might not be a bad idea to also change out the cam shaft seals. Good Luck BW

engine does not get any power at all. BW

we didn't remove anything from the engine harness. I did a search and it sounds like the buzzing is a shift solenoid. does the shift solenoid require ATF in order to operate properly? I put in 5 quarts in a bone dry tranny. I know that the torque converter needs some as well, but I have not been able to turn it over to get the oil in there. I am pretty sure that I have all of the engine harness stuff connected, so there is a problem with the tranny computer not giving the ok signal to the Engine ECU. Might be the neutral park switch that is keeping it from starting. Do you know if it is possible to drain and remove the ATF oil pan to see what solenoid is making the noise? BW

I was pretty skeptical with the condtion of the tranny, but he said that they "tested" it. We did swap out the tranny harness and all off the sensors in the tranny with the one from his old tranny. Condition before the swap was that it would start and move but not get faster that about 30 mph.

I helped a friend install a 4eat in his 1999 outback this weekend. Right now the car will not start. We pulled the engine b/c it was easier to mate the tranny to it and to get the torque converter secured. The only sound it makes is a ticking sound when the gear selector is put into gear. I removed the shift cable and moved the selector by hand into the gears and the tranny ticks when it is put into gear. The ticking is coming from the tranny oil pan. Tranny was from a mail order company and we do not have a history on it. It looks like it came from a car that was in a fire b/c the wires are badly burned. Have you ever run into a situation where the tranny will tick like that. any possibility that there is internal damage to the tranny due to fire? BW

Remember.... Subaru represents the pleiades and that has been traditionally a sign of new opportunities....Leave a Legacy that will impact the future..... or something profound sounding like that. (note the strategic insert of Subaru and Legacy) Does that qualify to keep this in this forum?

I agree with Gary on this one. If the engine was not running and you were moving things by hand. Highly doubt that you damaged anything. I would not worry too much about the cams moving around when you are tightening up the bolt. You just have to be careful to keep them still when you are setting the timing belt One solution I have found to hold them still is to take an old timing belt and wrap it 2/3s of the way around the pulley. Then fold the timing belt over itself, and wrap it around the pulley. best way to describe it is as if you were going to wind the t-belt around the pulley. wind it clock-wise to remove the bolt and counter clockwise if you are going to tighten. You will know if you have wrapped it the wrong way b/c it will not give you resistance. BW

might want to wander over to nasioc and look at the built motor section. Post what you find. BW

Phase 1 block w/phase 2 heads = interference. confirmed the hard way:rolleyes:

well looks like on the down time of getting the heads redone, I will be getting a set of delta torque cams and clean up the casting marks on the heads.

Catastrophic failure last monday. w/210 miles on the motor, the timing belt skipped and the motor is fubar. suspect the idler pulley failing, but can't be sure. Driver's side cam is hard to turn so i am pretty sure that some valves on that side are bent. I don't know about the pistons. pulling the heads sometime next month. Been really busy w/stuff. one a good note, bank has accepted out offer for a house so I get a 2 car garage to play in. bill, I used the Phase 2 stuff, but the phase 1 idler and other pulleys will bolt right up w/no problems. BW

well I figured out the no start problem. timing definately jumped and it looks like the driver's side cam is sticking. I have yet to pop off the heads on this to determine it it's only one side or both. The first indication that something was amiss was that these little pieces of rubber fell out when I removed the t-belt cover. Most likely then t-belt might has jumped w/deceleration and then the pistons hit the valves. What's the likelihood that I will need to replace the pistons as well. I was on the freeway with the engine at 3k rpms. *sigh* BW

used the ones from the EJ22 engine. They were replaced when the t-belts were last done at 100k. RE the OD@ reader, it will tell me if there is something not right in terms of a sensor that keeps it from firing. BW

Shortblock was rebuilt by me :-\ New bearings, new rings, old pistons and rods. EJ25 shortblock had about 140k on it. EJ22 heads had 129k on it. I took the heads off the shortblock w/a bad bearing. Cleaned off the mating surface, used a multi-layered metal headgasket and old head bolts Used the old OEM timing belt b/c it only had 20k on it. Used EJ22 water pump and the EJ25 oil pump. Have my code reader. will pull the codes Thursday. BW

so what would cause the t-belt to slip? I was not accelerating hard. I was cruising at 3500 rpms. T-belt was not new but had about 30k on it. In terms of checking for a bent valve. After checking the timing, a compression test should show it it's bent right? Thanks BW