Legback

Was messing with the old valve still in the car and it broke in half. Now I've got a PO446 to go with my po440. And it's ductaped. Does this stuff effedt how the car runs or is it emissions related only or what? There is no pressure built up when I release the gas cap. That section of solid pipe is very rusty and prolly not airtight. That filterlike item is rusty too. It's all suspect really.

Ordered Canister ventilator valve. Any reason not to bypass that brief section of solid pipe and run one length of rubber tube from the CVValve to that filter looking thing?

Does that filter ever need changing?? Like when your filler necks been sucking fine dirt in for who knows how long.!

Mine is a 98 leg out Lim WAG. 2.5 --Canister valve ventilator looks like it??? will trace the lines better today. Thank you!!

Do they both have a lead going to them? I think it's the smaller one toward to the wheel well. The hoses form an L as they come off of it and there's a white power connector.??

I've been studying the archives and I already replaced a rotting fill tube. There is a black box back there behind the right rear wheel with hoses and there is what looks to be a solenoid. I tested-- it had 25.9 ohms resistance. The power supply had 11.9 volts. But the metal cover rotted off and now there's just a plastic piece and instead of an alert on my scantool it's fulltime red PO440. Can someone tell me which solenoid this is? My research points to vent solenoid but I can't find diagrams anywhere!! Thanks:-\

I can't believe the difference this Sea Foam has made. I've used lucas in the gas and never noticed a change like Sea Foam made through the IACV hose.

A big pickle fork that spans 1 5/8 ish inches. It's hard or impossible to find a pickle fork that misses the ball joint entirely. One that applies force to the lower control arm and the knuckle only and doesn't impinge on the rubber boot. Any body seen one that big??

My Maine coast winter briney/salted ball joint replacement amended procedure. 98 legacy Outback. 1. Go to Ace and buy 3/8- 2.5 inch stainless bolt(s) and locknut(s). 2. Go home. Put up etc......wheel off... 3. Take your breaker bar and 14mm socket and what the hell, might as well make it easy on yourself and add your pipe extension to make as easy as possible to twist the head off the pinch bolt. F penetrants here. Waste of time and Aero Kroil. 4. Mark the center of the other end of the pinch bolt and center punch it. Hard. 5. Take 1/4 inch drill bit and drill on center and as straight as you possibly can. 6. Won't hurt to try the 3/8 bit before drilling all the way through. I got lucky on the first one and it grabbed the 1/4 inch hole and spun the nub through. 7. With old bolt cleared out to 3/8, hammer your pickle fork in it's pickle fork place. 8. Use only one half of another pickle fork (air hammer if you can)to drive between the top of pickle fork number one and the knuckle. 9. What a *************** mine was. 10. Remove castle nut and free ball joint.----install new 30$ Subaru ball joint. Not a 67$ NAPA one.

I read somewhere that moving the new knock sensor wasn't a bad idea. There's a threaded hole a litle higher up the block to the passenger's side that fits the knock sensor bolt. Any ideas on this subject?

WOW!! So I just buy\install a new master cylinder and I'm good? How much damage does burning brake fluid do to the engine etc.? Who knows how long that's been goin on?

Detach master cylinder from booster? There are no external leaks in that area. Is it a replaceable seal?

Which one? Might it have rolled under? Is that where the brake line goes when It's not under the vehicle?

Replaced both front calipers a year ago ---not those. Gotta get another good dry day. Just snowed today and tracking wetness is tough.

98 leg O. With 4 wheel disc and ABS. Every now and then the pedal feels a little mushy. Not all the time.

I keep on having to add brake fluid. More than due to normal wear. Gotta check the bottom of the booster Monday and will report findings.

Will it drip out of the booster?

I'm definately losing brake fluid. I had the lines from the rear splitter to the wheels redone a year ago and all that is dry. None of the lines in the engine compartment are wet either. I don't see any spots of DOT 3 anywhere!!! Any ideas for troubleshooting?

So does mine... I've been seeing that white screen a lot lately too! I just used 75-90 synthetic in my Diff. And Castrol Multi Import ATF.

I seated the TC in the tranny a few times. It seems like when it's all the way in---Any of the four ears on the TC are 1\4 inch ahead of the flat mating surface on the tranny. Can anyone verify a diffinitive measurement on this??

I use these guys. Best prices I can find on Subaru and VW parts. http://www.ezsubaruparts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=215899

I did mine without lift but skinned every knuckle and beat up the drivers side low near valve cover bolt. That was the worst single bolt. With a plethora of extensions and combinations of wierd length do hickiy 's and some tape....it is possible. Not fun but possible. I'd pull it next time fo shnizzle.

I suppose I could get any old connector and replace both ends? What's the big deal as long as it's connected?

So twist it up and drop some solder on it after sliding a piece of tiny shrink tube? then slide the tube over the solder and shrink.

I've got the metal pin out of the plastic plug piece and I have enough slack to strip and attach the same wire. Does anyone know if the metal MALE plug piece is available?