subaru360

Midcoast or Downeast. I've looked at a few houses in or near Belfast so far.

Hopefully Maine. The house I really wanted half a block from the ocean sold recently before I got enough money together.

I haven't posted here a lot lately. This car was a lot of fun to work on. I only drove it around the block a few times but I recall it handling like a go kart.

all the aa160 mafs are the same. It will work. 97 impreza and 98 outback use the same maf.

The only way to fix that is to have the block sleeved on that cylinder. You could tap and plug the hole on the outside of the block.

That guy is a hack. He was trying to sell that car on ebay and the rollcage was built out of black iron plumbing pipe.

I would put a nice aftermarket electric pump back by the tank, below the fuel level or as low as you can. Then run new steel lines up to the front and put a pressure regulator under the hood. I would just vent the evap to the atmosphere somwhere back by the tank. I usually just run a hose with a loop in it along the filler neck and vent it there as high as possible.

Doesn't sound right. If the valves stuck open they would have hit the pistons and be bent. It sure wouldn't run smooth or have good power then.

I think that would work.

95 legacy is male rear axles, no pin.

You need to resurface it now anyway. The guy doing the work for you used one of those 3m pads on the gasket surface and it's not flat anymore.

There are only 2 of them. 3 wire and 2 wire. Use what the car originally had.

Same thing rots it out from the bottom up. Holds moisture underneath it.

Winter driving and especially parking over dirt does them in fast.

I see that all the time around here. Not uncommon at all.

Yes, they fit, but it's really tight.

Same engine. Possibly 1 or two vacuum hoses might be different, no big deal.

The parts places don't stock them and they don't fit right when they get them. For some reason only the factory one fits right. It'll hold up for a long time, ones I did a few years ago are still leak free.

You just need to pick up a split flange from autozone and a new donut gasket from the dealer. They all break there. There is almost always enough left for a split flange to grab. Use the bolts that come with the split flange and forget the spring bolts.

Unplug the abs module under the hood and take the abs bulb out of the dash cluster. The abs sucks on these cars anyway. Or buy a used hub/spindle assembly if you really want to fix it.

The older ones don't have that removable bar. You have to pull the whole rear subframe out.

You need to pull the crossmember out. You can try to press them out on a press. They usuually won't come out. Easiest way to get them out is burn all the rubber out with a torch. Then cut the shell with a sawzall and you can get the shell out with a hammer and chisel. The new ones need to be pressed back in. It's probably cheaper and easier to find a used crossmember with good bushings.

On the body side. The bracket mounting the arm to the body in front of the tire.

Try Forester or Outback trailing arm brackets before you cut the quarters. They will center the wheel in the wheel well so it doesn't rub the front.

KYB AGX or Tokico D spec struts will do what you want.