subaru360

You can get an autocheck report for free. Just make an ebay free local classified ad with the vin number. Just put in the basics no real description or pics, list it. Look at the autocheck report and get the history, then cancel the listing. It takes about 5 mins and costs nothing. I do it before I buy a car that I may resell on ebay to avoid surprises.

Sure it's the right type of hose? You can't just use fuel line. It needs to be a high pressure hose.

If you are looking for the 20mm rear bar it came stock on the 02 WRX. 03+ they went to a smaller rear bar.

Filling the tank with it running, gas cap loose or missing, a hose that cracked or fell off, rusted out filler neck. That's what I find most commonly.

Looks really good.

I use evo scan and an ftdi ttl to usb cable. I can datalog anything from the early 90's stuff to present. I have about $50 into it with the price of the software and the cable. I also have a tactrix cable and rom raider for the newer cars.

Looks like a 95-99 legacy bumper, hacked up to fit the earlier legacy.

The struts bolt in. I suggest you get the rear trailing arm brackets from an outback, they center the rear wheels in the wheelwell. The bumper bolts on. I suggest you get the outback grille as well, the legacy one is shorter and will leave a gap between grille and bumper.

Yeah really, save that stuff for nasioc, they like to be stuck up over there. If I can read it, I don't care. OP, nobody has mentioned it, but 99 Outback is a Phase 1 engine.

It's a lot easier and faster to just get a complete used front hub with bearing. If you want to do just the bearing, you have to press it in and out with a shop press. The 95 has the older style shift linkage. There aren't any aftermarket shifters of bushings for it. You can upgrade the linkage to the newer style like the 02+ wrx used and then you have many choices in bushings and shifters like kartboy etc. On my 95 I actually just cut off the bracket on the shifter and raised the pivot point making it a short shifter, it works fine. My bushings are still in good shape though.

Cool, I am getting close to 20 years as an ASE master tech.

The hard 1-2 shift is common. A lot of subarus do it. It's more obvious in stop and go traffic, where you lift off the gas and it shifts to 2nd. It's just the way they are and nothing to worry about. Change the fluid if you want, it can't hurt.

As long as you line the crankshaft up on the timing mark before you take the belt off and don't move the crank, you can turn the cams 100 times in either direction with no ill effects. With the crank on the mark, the pistons are all down.

Does not matter. I have put a phase 1 trans into a car that had the newer center diff. It all bolts in.

Usually it's a bad cluster. Sometimes it's a VSS.

I've had limited sucess knocking the rust of with a belt sander. The right way is to just replace them. Most places won't cut rusty rotors because the rust chews up the tips on the lathe.

The autozone here carries them, some of the other stores too.

The split flanges I use are labeled 1 7/8" - 2" The actual OD of the pipe is just slightly more than 1 7/8"

Be sure you pulled out the clutch cross shaft. It's behind an allen head plug in the trans case next to the starter. Thread a 6mm bolt into it and pull it out. If the engine and trans are stuck together start with the putty knife and hammer and split them, then progress to screwdriver then prybar as they spit apart.

The forester XT had 4.444 gearing so you can buy it here. Easiest way for you to understand it is the higher numerically you go, the faster it will accelerate, but top speed will decrease.

Type of Wrenching: Professional, I have a small Subaru sales and service business. How long doing it: 24 years. Subarus 69-present. Was also GM dealer tech for 15 years. ASE master tech Other skills: Home repairs, plumbing, electric, heating. I'm ok with trim carpentry, but not framing. I do ECU tuning for newer Subies as well.

no

Without some sort of engine management and a better fuel system, you will blow it up. The engine itself will hold up to boost fine.

I thought it was about the same as any other outback. They aren't exactly powerful to begin with. Maybe I'm not a good judge, I don't really notice a difference when I do the EJ25 to EJ22 swaps, I think they drive about the same.

It will run fine with it unplugged if you swap everything over from the old engine. I've done it.