subaru360

You will be ok for a while if you are careful. Just remember that the car will want to oversteer (kick the back end out) in slippery conditions.

I have a 98 Outback for sale with a 2.2 engine swap. It won't have headgasket issues. I want $3500. I can have it shipped to just about anywhere in the lower 48 for less than $5000.

You could also pick up a used set of 02-07 wrx sedan lateral links. They are longer and will give you some negative camber to even out what you lost from the lift.

You are absolutely throwing your money away with any sort of bolt on parts for a non-turbo subaru. You will spend tons of money for little to no gain. Save for a wrx swap or trade up to a wrx if you want to go faster.

Not good advice. No reason at all to pull the engine. You don't need to do anything at all with the suspension to pull the trans. Just drive out the axle pins and take one axle off at a time as you slide the trans back. Once it's clear of the engine you can move it to one side enough to get the axle off. You can get at the separator plate with the trans out just fine. Use a straight, not angled, 12mm box end wrench for the torque converter bolts. I put the bolts back in by hand it's not a big deal. But if you are nervous about dropping them, just stuff a rag down there before trying to put them back in.

That's Mike's. I did the lift and webber on it and the Brat also. I think his SN on here is ettev or somthing like that.

Just lay a piece of 2x4 across the trans pan and you won't smash it up. It needs to be wider than the pan.

I put a socket and extension on and beat on the extension with a hammer before trying to break them loose. This breaks the rust loose. The stud can actually rust to the exhaust flange, that's how they snap off.

I tie an old seat belt to both front runners of the intake. It balances perfect. I've done it probably 100 times. These engines are light, you really don't need a chain.

Not a bad deal for somebody who doesn't have access to good used ones. I just walk the local EZ pull yard till I find a non leaker and grab it. They only get $12 for them there.

I would, they are cheap used and will center the wheel in the wheel well. It affects rear caster, which doesn't cause tire wear, so you can go without them if you don't care how it looks and aren't running bigger tires.

In the middle of winter if you don't have a garage, I'd pull the engine and take it someplace warm to work on it. You can get it out in about an hour vs. being outside for hours on end bending over a fender. I have heat and AC in my garage.

Cut both bumper beams in half and weld them together. You can't see it anyway, it doesn't have to be a pretty job. I like those 5 spoke wheels a lot more than wrx wheels. If you ever want to sell them let me know.

Yep happens to me all the time. The spark plug holes fill up with water. Blow it out and it will be back to normal.

Pull the blade over the surface with the sharp opposite of the direction you are scraping. You don't want it to dig in. 2 guy can lift it out if you get desperate. They only weigh about 300 lbs. My buddy and I do it all the time when buying junkyard engines.

The bracket that mounts the front of the trailing arm to the body. You need to use forester or outback ones when you lift a car with forester or outback struts.

Yes you can. But it makes the job twice as hard. The engine comes out in an hour, it's not a big deal. It's 10 more bolts and 4 nuts to pull the engine. Never, ever use those. They remove material from the block surface leaving it with high and low spots. You'll end up with blown head gaskets again when they don't seal. The also get grit into the engine and ruin the bearings. Only use the trailing edge of a razor blade and brake clean to clean the block and head surfaces.

The brake fluid will cause the rubber hoses to soften, swell and burst, spraying heated fluid everywhere. It's a matter of when, not if they fail. If anyone doubts this, get a section of rubber coolant hose, put it in a container of brake fluid and let it sit for a week. You'll see how soft it gets and how much it swells up. You're also going to ruin the seals in the water pump and that is going to fail.

They aren't. Try and bolt one on, it's an inch bigger. Wrong again, the wrx has a dual mass flywheel with a bolt on weight on the back. The sti does as well, but it's a larger diameter. This whole thread should just be deleted so somebody doesn't find it in the future and get bad info.

Probably either speedline, compomotive or team dynamics.

Everything in this thread is wrong. Cars that came with a 2.5 have a larger diameter clutch than 2.2 cars, so they take a different flywheel. However you can interchange the cpmplete flywheel/disc/pressure plate between them if you use all 3 together.

^ Salvage title STIs with running engines go for 8-9k at the copart salvage auctions.

You would have to surface the case halves then linebore the block. Be sure to verify piston to head and piston valve clearance afterwards if a lot is taken off. This will also raise the compression slightly, probably not enough to matter. Probably cheaper in the long run to get another block, ea71s are cheap enough.

What you all are missing here is that 98-02 forester takes the same radiator. I have had a 98 and a 99 forester sitting here side by side a few weeks ago and can verify this. Both 98 and 99 have a cap on the radiator. Only the turbo cars have the cap on the engine mounted reservoir.

I can rebuild them if I want to, they aren't a hard trans to work on. But with used ones available to me for less than $100 it's just not cost effective.