subaru360

They fit, you do have to splice in the different plug.

Good buy. I would just fix it and flip it for about $3-4k myself.

No gasket! Just a thin layer of silicone and the o-ring. My favorite stuff is permatex ultra copper. But any quality brand is fine too.

I've never seen an oil filter related problem on a subaru. I work on these cars every day. So I just buy whatever store brand filter is the cheapest.

My 2 cents is rings. That's too much smoke for valve seals. Pop another EJ22 in there. They are cheap.

Put the trans in first and then the engine. You can remove/install them together, but it is 10x's harder.

If there was a problem, it would be known on here. There is no better source for info on older subarus.

Anything with an ej22 phase 1 is a tank and pretty much runs until it rusts away. Even if it breaks, used parts for these (90-98) are dirt cheap.

All the 98 foresters I have seen had 205 70 15 tires. They do fit on a standard legacy, but it is VERY close to both the upper rear spring perch and the front of the wheel well. The seats fit. The struts fit. If you swap struts into the legacy, use the trailing arm brackets off the forester, they center the rear wheel in the wheelwell. But putting the legacy engine in the forester is a good idea as well.

That is the horn for the alarm system. Probably not your noise.

You won't be stranded by an O2 sensor, but the car can be a handful to drive, hesitating with no power. I've almost been run over trying to pull out in a car that had a bad O2. They do run with it unplugged. When it sets an O2 sensor code the computer ignores the sensor input and goes to backup fueling or what some people refer to as "limp mode".

Not true, I've have bad front O2 sensors cause major driveability problems. Even on obd1 cars which is what I consider old stuff. Surging at cruising speeds is common. Hesitaion from a stop happens a lot too. But anyway for the 420, aftermarket cats will NOT fix it. They don't work well enough. Factory cats will but are mega expensive, sometimes more than the car is worth. I just do the antifoulers, it works 9 times out of 10 for me.

IAC is totally different. It won't work. Options- Get a phase 2 2.2 engine Use just the older shortblock if your heads are good. Get a 95+ intake manifold and 99 2.5 bulkhead harness.

Check the backspace on the wheels as well. I think the tires are too tall.

I'd go with a EJ22 swap and be done with it.

I don't know of anyone that makes legacy wagon lowering springs, but they may be out there. I know impreza wagon springs would work better than sedan springs. Adjustable coilovers would do what you want but they are around $1000.

http://www.rockauto.com For dealer only parts I don't even bother online anymore. I just go to the local dealer. By the time you pay shipping and handling the price is about the same.

Yes, but the rear of the wagon will sag badly from the additional weight over what the impreza springs were designed for.

It should be flush.

You can't legally import jdm cars that are less than 25 years old. They do not comply with us emissions and crash test requirements. Those companies with the websites will take your money and put the car on a boat, sure. As soon as it gets it here it will be seized by customs and you get a choice, pay to send it back or have it crushed. With all that said, there are ways to get the cars here that are semi legal. These are called gray market cars. You can pay to have the car disassembled in Japan and have the body and drivetrain shipped in seperate containers. Then put it back together when it gets here. Or have it imported into Canada where they only have a 15 year rule. Some of the Canadian importers have been know to drive the car across the border for you. What you do with it after that is your business. Some states let you title and register jdm cars. Most don't. If you want a mail car just buy a rhd legacy mail wagon. They made them 90-99. There are still plenty of them around. I've bought/sold 2 of them myself.

The wrx lines should bolt on, while the older legacy/impreza ones clip on.

It will work if you want to use it. The only difference is the little tab for the brake hoses and abs wires.

The EJ22T has 2 vents on top of the crankcase and the EJ22 only has one. The second one on the turbo block is a 90 degree fitting. I've owned a few of the turbo blocks and all of them had 2 crank vents and the crosshatch pattern ribbing on the block.

You have it all figured out. Your combination of parts will work.

From the outside an EJ22T block will have crosshatching in the casting all over the block where an EJ22 doesn't. There is also an extra crankcase vent on the top of the block that an EJ22 doesn't have. Once the heads are off, you will see the closed deck and the difference is obvious.