CNY_Dave

If a wheel bearing is bad enough to clunk, it should show up in a wiggle test pretty easily. If it doesn't get hot, doesn't hum, and isn't loose, it's good. Telling you have a bad wheel wheel bearing is usually easy, on this it's figuring out which one that's tough.

Check the clutch fork for signs of cracking, bending, and having the ball wear through.

Oh jeez, how'd I miss that in that pic? I didn't trigger on it because mine was circular, not like the one depicted, I think.

I can't find a pic that shows it... it is big and goes around the inside edge of the housing. In the pic you show of your joint you can see the groove it goes into just inside the housing.

If that deep cap works with or without the in-tank filter LET US KNOW!!

I think this is the first H4 pump doing this I have heard of. I need to hit the junkyard and get a pump so I'm ready for this...

If the spring clip is AWOL I may have one to mail (if you have the time to wait...)

Come to think of it, when I bought my '03 H6 used from the dealer they replaced an AC part free because there was a recall. Not sure what part it was.

I am 99% sure if on one side the wheel goes 'up' to tighten it, the other side is the same. They could use the same part and just swap which end points forwards.

It is most likely simply low on refrigerant, my 03 H6 needed a can at 160,000 or so. If it doesn't last a season or two I'll chase down where the leak is. It could be other problems, such as the rev sensor or even the clutch itself. First step is to get a gauge on the low-pressure side, I have to imagine you could get a garage to just check that and then do nothing more for not much money. If it has enough pressure that it should be running, try pressing on the A/C clutch/pulley with a stick of wood, try to force the plates together. If it runs when you apply pressure the clutch needs to be maybe cleaned, maybe needs to have a shim removed.

I haven't seen the possible cause of a heat shield or retarded timing before, will have to keep those in mind.

That's the way it's normally done with a bushing like this, if you can get a socket on the nut.

My legacy/outback manual says the nut (which is supposed to be replaced) is 137 ft lbs, the bolts are 181 ft lbs. It also says there is supposed to be a gap on both sides of the bushing, 1.5mm in front and 1mm in back, gap adjusted by moving the bushing on the arm and using the oval holes in the bushing mount. It also says to scribe a line across the old bushing onto the control arm, then align the marks on re-assembly. For a new bushing I guess you have to transfer the mark from the old to the new bushing.

They are probably just spinning the wheel on the lift by hand, then seeing if it's tight enough they can't.

Most certainly. They need to make it right- assuming they are capable. The E-brake drums are just like any rear drum brake e-brakes, there are just no wheel cylinders.

Could be they didn't adjust them enough, does the lever show some resistance when you yank it up? How many clicks? Could be the shoes or the drum are contaminated, you might try driving slowly, holding the button down, and pulling the lever up to where it has some resistance to scuff the shoes and drum a bit.

I have seen brake rotors that according to the customer 'just started making noise' worn to the point where there was 'rotor' on one side of the rotor and nothing but the cooling vanes on the other.

Something I learned when getting some rims from tire rack- some wheels have lug nuts with a different cone angle, make sure to get the correct lug nuts.

Hit autozone or the like and have them pull codes. I think the '04 is throttle-by-wire, on my ;03 similar symptoms were caused by the throttle position sensor, but if you have TBW, you don't have a TPS.

AC rookie here, but how long did you pull vacuum? May have stopped too soon and you are seeing some moisture or other volatiles boiling off.

Wonder what criteria the ECU uses to determine that? Anyway, a test light/ear on the tank will tell if the pump continues to run.

Here's a pic from the manual I colorized. It shows the pressing operation partway through. There are no instructions on how far to press the parts together, and the only way the pressing operation will stop is if a) ST2 hits the hub (green) when the orange race is flush with the hub or the bearing race (purple) bottoms on the flaring part of the hub. Now, if the hub were to bottom against ST2 then there would be no preload on the bearings because ST2 is just a stand-in for the axle, so it stands to reason yuo keep on pressing until you achieve (. The oil seal is colored red.

This shows what I mean even though it's for a bimmer, and shows ball bearings not rollers. For the preload to be set, the outboard inner race "1b" must contact the lip on the hub, and the inboard inner race "1a" gets pressed against it by the axle itself, until the inner races touch. If you don't drive the outboard inner race "1b" all the way to the lip where the hub widens, it'll happen when you tighten the axle nut, assuming the race slides on the hub before you reach full torque on the axle nut. So I believe the correct answer to 'how far' is 'till it won't go no more'.

Maybe this explains it- the part of the race that 'grips' the hub then flares out a bit, and that part fetches up against the wide part of the hub. http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/87/dsc04785s.jpg imageshack.us/f/87/dsc04785s.jpg from http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/front-wheel-bearing-diy-walkthrough-86994.html?p=3240125

Although this pic makes it look like the race does not bottom against the larger part of the hub? Then how the heck is the preload actually set? This was on a '97 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=832596