CNY_Dave

Just hope that it didn't come off anything I ever drove, heh. Dave

Are you guys buying the can-and-hose kit or the still somewhat cheap gauge kit? Dave

Also see http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=111279&highlight=6203 http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=94497&highlight=6203 Dave

I used the NAPA 6203-2rsj for both on my '03. Not sure what the J means, the 2RS means 2 rubber seals. One of them has a recess that keeps the nut from turning, once you pull the bolt the nut likes to fall out of the recess and disappear. A bit of tape over the hole keeps it in place nicely, just back up the tape with your finger when pushing on the bolt. Dave

If the vibration builds at about the same rate the speed builds, and keeps cadence with the speed, it's more likely to be a tire or wheel bearing or axle- something that rotates at the same rate as the wheels. If it seems to build about 4x the speed of the car, it probably has to do with the trans-to-rear-differential drive shaft, which spins at about 4x the speed of the wheels. I have seen the disappearing vibration you describe most often with driveshaft problems- U joints, center-carrier bearing or support, or a loose slider in the last section (which subes fortunately don't have). Dave

If you are like me and bomb 4 interstate on-off ramps a day, the left ones don't last as long as the right-hand ones! Dave

Cool beans. Dave

Long-term update from the rooster? dave

I don't *think* that part is VDC or H6 or outback or transmission specific, so I think any legacy or outback can be the donor. Gotta be a junkyard somewhere with those. Dave

They used to- they merged it all together. To the OP- if you do all around town driving, the H6 does not have much advantage. If you do a lot of freeway driving, it's great! Dave

I only see a dancing bananna... Dave

Someone here cheated and just filled around the bushings with some kinda urethane windshield goo. Might transmit a bit more noise but if/when mine go that's what I'll be doing. Mine look a little better than yours, 155,000 miles so far. Dave

Yeah, that sounds like the urethane goo someone used. I think they used it on the bushings for the rear differential. Dave

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If it's just the rubber isolator that is too flexxy that could be fixed with a bit of the right kind of goo... Dave

So do they seep a tiny bit forever, or is a head gasket job in the next few years (or sooner) inevitable? No trace of coolant in the oil yet, of course I do 100miles a day, mostly highway, so I figure a good but of moisture could be getting in there and being 'driven out' effectively, but the oil does not come out cloudy or weirdly colored. Dave

I might add the conditioner (subaru may have when they did a full flush in the fall), no way I'm even touching it though! Dave

Itsa? Dave

The pipe is the one that goes from the cooler to up behind the engine on the drivers side, not an easy one to get to. It is just a coolant pipe, no worries about oil contamination or such. I know the H6 failure is rare, my question is more, has anyone ever seen what I'm talking about, and it stayed that way, well, ferever. Dave

2003 H6 in an LL bean. Has the standard H6 oil cooler under the oil filter plumbed into the coolant system... left front coolant pipe is just about rusted through (I was a-skeered to even poke it hard). Anyone ever replace these pipes? Wondering if it's even possible with the engine in the car. Anyone ever patch around the bad spots with hose, and therefore knows what size hose to use? Longer-term but scarier question- one head-gasket seam has a greenish tinge to it, maybe with some scale, it was dry but definitely did not look like the other side. Is this what a very slow head gasket leak looks like? Anyone ever have one that looked like that for a loooong time without an actual leak developing? Dave

A direct-injection gasoline 2 stroke would not blow fuel out the tailpipe, would probably need to be supercharged. There are some opposed piston diesels out there, and I think there was even a german WWII bomber with an engine like this. Dave

On my '01 the key was PB Blaster (I now have Kroil, even better), and to rock it back-and-forth just the tiny bit I could without twisting the body apart. I wire brushed around it and then scraped around it with an awl, and also poked the awl between the 'head' and the metal a bit so I could get the lube right onto the barrel in the hole. The twisting, even if its flexing the body of the sensor a bit, gets the lube down the hole and scrapes of a bit of rust in the hole, little by little. Took 40 minutes or so. Dave

HF has an 80 buck tool that someone has used to do this? Linky? Dave

OK, hub-tamer-ites, a question- How many tons of force is a hub tamer capable of applying? I replaced a front bearing on my '03 and my 12T press was just about maxxed-out pressing out the old outer races. If you have a lot of shim stock, old bearings and gears and pipe laying around it's fairly easy to get the knuckle straight in the press and not mess it up, but if you were sloppy I could see how you could put it out-of-round. Dave

We have a 2005 forester 2.5 non-turbo. This engine is prone to an oil-only leak-to-the-outside-world head-gasket leak. I am not sure what years are affected by this. We caught ours *just* in time to have it covered by warranty. Dave