CNY_Dave

Has anyone ever actually had the valves adjusted on their H63.0? Were they in our out of spec? Do they get loose or tight? Dave

I can't think of any reason the oil cooler would be involved in this job. Dave

My wifes 2.5 '05 forester had the head-gasket oil-leak, same engine as on the legacy/outback, I think. Dave

Not much snow around Hartford, except when there is! One or 2 years between 10 and 5 years ago there was a heck of a lot! Dave

Oh man, does the new trans diff ratio match the rear diff ratio? Could be the clutches have slipped as much as they could and have now bound up... going straight it should never bind. Dave

My '03 goes up to just below half. Did see it go a little higher once when it was hot and I was pulling a trailer up a steep hill doing 80+ Dave

The H6 (intro'ed 2001) has a simple version of the VVT, I believe. Dave

Yes, there could be some intermittent interference nearby. I recall there was a neighborhood somewhere, they were all having problems with their garage door openers, turned out to be a nearby military site (forget if it was radar or what). Dave

The biggest change- how the heads are cooled- doesn't show. I haven't seen what the changes are, but supposedly... Dave

Damn. But hopefully this solves the mystery. It will be interesting to hear how easy it was to find the head. Dave

Sprongl's car was not nearly as fast, and had no co-driver. Makes it difficult to compare the times fairly. Cool either way, though. Sprongl had a few spots where he could have downshifted... Dave

If you decide to expose your weather-beaten (axle) nuts to the world, we don't need to know about it! Dave

If you re-use them, it's best if you can get a new part of the nut over the slot so you aren't re-bending the same staked spot. If both go back to the same spot, you could try swapping nuts side-for-side. Dave

Whine or hum? Changes when you turn? Changes when you are on/off the throttle, or at just the right throttle setting to take the load off the transmission? Dave

I've looked into the repair, and have decided I'll live with using a small rubber doorstop. Dave

Ralph, if that's horseheads NY, you mean it only snows half the year down south where you are? Dave (Cortland NY)

The beaners don't have the VTD/VDC. Dave

The way the wheel bearing goes together, yes, it is unlikely too much torque will do anything bad. Beyond sufficiently 'tight' the wheel bearing clearance does not go down/preload does not go up as you torque the nut further. Doing my wheel bearings, it turned for a long time at low torque and then when the two inner races met the torque went up to spec within 1/16 or 1/8 of a turn. Dave

The speed rating is sometimes chosen to select for better handling characteristics- a lower speed rating may give you a bit floppier response to quick steering inputs. Practice a few emergency-avoidance maneuvers to see if there's a change in handling you need to get used to. Dave

Wheels? was there a car in that pic? Dave

It might also be there to *heat* the oil in cold climate areas, to prevent sludging. Dave

Mine bounces around a bit, but only rotationally, if the pivot is worn and the arm can move in any other way, that allows the pulley to guide the belt off the other pulleys- so replace if it's doing that. Its normal to have it run smooth and then bounce for a few seconds, though. Dave

Just like any clutch or brake, friction material (usually on a metal backing) on one side and a smooth metal plate on the other. Dave

Sounds like the transfer clutch basket is grooved. Dave

Could also be pad deposition onto the rotors, caused by getting the brakes good and hot then stopping with the brake on for a bit. This feels much like a warped rotor but the cadence is usually once/rotation as opposed to many times/rotation. If the steering wheel vibrates, that's what I'd call warping, if it feels like it gets pulled left-and-right that's the slower cadence I mean. Dave