ferox

The best solution is to replace that carb with a Weber Redline 32/36 DGV series carb. Weber sells a conversion kit or you can get a used carb and order the manifold adapter separately. Expect to pay $200-$350 depending on whether you go used or not. There is a lot of information on that swap in various threads and the repair manual. It's worth the money to do the swap, but if it's not an option chime back.

This has been covered a lot, so the topic experiences explanation fatigue. I know that GeneralDisorder has described exactly what you need in several threads on this subject, including jet sizes and everything. Maybe try some more narrowed down searching. Basically you will need the adapter to the ea81, the properly jetted carb, the low-profile air filter (1 7/8" I think) unless you have a lift, and some PCV hose and t-fitting. Install is really simple. Here are a couple links with some info. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=67492&highlight=ea81+adapter http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=109044&highlight=manual+choke Try doing a search for "manual choke", sorted by relevancy, posts by GeneralDisorder. You will get plenty of threads to go through. Try "PCV Routing" and "throttle cable" as well.

Actually that's well beyond professional advice.

I am wondering if anyone has used POR-15 Fuel Tank Sealer or other similar products and would care to share their experience. http://www.stoprust.net/POR-15-Fuel-Tank-Sealer-Pint-p-49.html

When was the last time you replaced your transmission mounts? If the answer is "never", then at the very least I would check them out. Ea81 trans mounts are pretty weak. After the driveline vibration you described they may have even pulled apart. If it were me, I would replace them, but I would advise that you at least check them. Their importance in the driveability of the car is usually grossly underestimated.

Thanks McBrat

Will a heater core coolant control valve (the so-called "heater cock complete" in the FSM) from an '81 GL fit in an '81 Brat?

You are essentailly correct. You don't want to leave the Seafoam in your oil too long. I think I remember people saying to run it about 200 miles [i don't run it that long ~60 miles] then change your oil. Most of these older engines lose a little oil over time, so you can Seafoam when the oil level drops a bit. I put Seafoam in a spray bottle and squirt it as fast as I can down the carb-both barrels with the engine running. Sometimes I can get the car to stall, other times I just shoot a bunch in there and turn off the car for 10 minutes or so. Be prepared for the cloud of smoke coming out of the tail pipe.

Since you are in Cali, you are ultimately going to want to do an EJ22/5 MT swap or GeneralDisorders SPFI swap. The Weber is not accepted there for smog.

What elevation do you live at? How long do you let your car warm up? Have you Seafoamed your fuel system?

I am not familiar with the fitting in your picture, so I am not sure. I would probably do that just to minimize the hosery and it's easier to compare your set-up to other examples.

Checking and cleaning all of the main connections, fusible link connections, and grounds can make a surprising difference too. I just did the battery connections on mine the other day and it made a noticeable difference. I would go through Naru's diagnostic suggestions, but if you want to run new wire then make sure you do it right. Run it through the fusible link, not straight to the battery (+). Replacing the field sensor wire is really easy and can just be a fused wire to battery (+). If you are going to do it, it's probably best to learn how that all works or you could accidentally create a fire hazard, and there are plenty of multimeterings that can be done to narrow down your problem before surgery...but it's a nice upgrade nonetheless.

First you should replace your fusible links, but yes you can upgrade the wiring. You will want to find the factory crimp where the main wire from the alt. connects to the harness so you can cut the old wire out of the circuit. On my '84 I found it near the charcoal canister. On my '81 I found it near the battery. For the "two small ones" you will probably want to upgrade your field sensor wire, but you can use the stock dash light wire. Make sure you run the new main wire to the fusible link box and replace the connection from the fusible link box to the battery as well.

I believe GD told me to use Boolean operators when I asked a similar question.http://www.internettutorials.net/boolean.asp And here is a thread with good pics of the PCV routing. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=115539&highlight=PCV+routing+weber In advanced search I typed in "PCV routing"+weber, sorted by Relevancy, posts made by GeneralDisorder, and six threads popped up. I am doing this install later today, so if you can't tell what kind of T fitting is pictured let me know and I'll post a pic.

Once I get my Hatch lifted and EJ'd I am putting in some swivel cup holders. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_sq_top?ie=UTF8&keywords=swivel%20drink%20holders&index=blended&pf_rd_p=1278548962&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B002PHS6HA&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=16MCCX5M6Q9S5WJ1A9ME

Unfortunately no. All the Justy's in the US were all Subaru. The 1.0 liter was not available in the US, but I think it was Subaru-made up until 1994. After '94 the Justy was no longer sold in the US and the Justy became a rebadged Suzuki Swift.

Not True

They develop weak oil pressure, and can throw rods. If it has over 100,000 miles then it may be a candidate for a rebuild. Most of the Justy odometers only had 5-digits, a testament to their design life I suppose, so you have to judge the car by condition. Rod knock is usually pretty apparent before they let loose, but you might want to look at the bottom end to see what you've got.

+1

It does sound like a bearing, CVJ, or related issue, but you might also try backing off your caliper pistons a little.

We had to call a couple dealers and drive a bit, but we finally got everything we needed. We installed everything yesterday, and there was a huge improvement in performance. The engine seems to be running pretty much perfect, but the cel is still on. We disconnected the battery for about an hour while we worked on it, but other than that we haven't done anything to clear codes. Do we need to do anything else to clear the cel? We have only driven approx. 40 miles.

Ok he found a pep boys that did the code read, even though it took them 4 hours. Some of the parts stores were saying there was a liability issue so they stopped doing reads for customers. He got codes P106 and P301. We have the plugs but are having trouble locating a NGK or factory wire set that does not require 4-5 days to receive. Anyone know who has the hook-up? Thanks

So my friend has called around to all the parts stores in his area (San D.) and none of them claim to have OBD readers to check customers codes. They told him to go to a shop, which I presume will want to charge him for the service. Any San Diego members have suggestions as to where to go to get codes read? '98 OB

I am over here from the Old Gen section. I am slowly working my way toward EJs, but in the meantime I am flying down to San Diego in a couple days to visit a buddy then he and I are going to drive back to Oregon in his 98 Outback. Apparently his cel came on recently, and he is in a relatively low-cash situation. I am having him take it to a parts store to get the codes and will report them later. I am putting together a list of tune-up items we can go through before our little road-trip. For some reason I am not getting very far with my search efforts...I have looked this stuff up before for other friends, but I am having trouble this time. So far here is what I've got (verification and input is much appreciated): Plugs: NGK BKR5ES11 (is this what we need?) I have a gap of .044 is this correct? Wires: NGK FX50 (?) http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=946560 MAF Sensor: MAF sensor cleaner + a delicate touch (I found a description that this is a silver round thing on the end of the air-box. Round as in cylindrical? Which end of the air-box?) IACV: Throttle body cleaner or Seafoam through IAC while car is running. (?) It seems like I have found a video of the cleaning process or something like that on here before, but I could not find it again. If anyone can provide a link that would be great. Ultimately I am not exactly sure where the IACV is located. TPS: Carb cleaner on throttle plates (?) And PCV valve, fuel filter, air filter, sea foam in tank. "The" O2 sensor was apparently new when my buddy bought the car about a year ago, but it is my understanding that there are pre and post cat O2 sensors (?) I am assuming that the pre-cat O2 was replaced. If the codes indicate a faulty O2 or knock sensor, are there specific brands we should go for? Are there any other not-so-expensive things we should do? Lots of questions I know. We won't have a huge amount of time to do this, so I am trying to prepare as much as possible beforehand. Thanks in advance

I am not sure if any of this is what you are looking for, but this is what I found in my FSM. I swear I have seen a different graph regarding the distributor, but I could not find it. If you need any of these scanned, I could probably do that.