mountaingoatgruff

i tested the functionality of the egr valve and its definitely capable of working. i hooked a hose to it, plugging the one i pulled off course, and the slightest vacuum stalled the engine. i could easily see the diapragm move. then i reconnected the egr solenoid, sat on the floor in front of the car with a flashlight and played with the throttle and found that the egr is closed at idle, opens and quickly closes when you goose the throttle, but if you slowly increase the rpm's it stays open at least to as far as i'm willing to rev it to - maybe 4k or just over - and closes once you let off. if you slowly rev it up and then slowly go up and down with the rpm's within a limited range the diaphragm opens in an amount directly relative to engine rpm's. so all that seems normal to me. this is the only thing that made no sense to me, i pulled off the egr vac line again, then hooked a line straight from the tb vac port supplying the egr solenoid the the egr valve itself. nothing happened. so i pulled the hose off the tb and sucked lightly, the engine immediately stalled. i restarted it then thought "why isn't the vac leak on the tb making any difference?" i put the hose on the tb vac port and blew air in and nothing changed, idle was normal whether i left the port open, applied vac to the port or blew air into the port. maybe at idle there's not enough airflow there to make a difference, the holes in the throat of the tb are pretty small. there's enough vac there at off-idle rpm's to open the egr, but maybe not enough to open it enough at just off idle, like at 1800rpm's. should i have used a direct manifold vac port? i changed the oil/filter/pressure sending unit. it now has a niehoff press sender and it seems like this unit is much less responsive to pressure fluctuations and it takes twice as long for the needle to come up after starting. i didn't get to the valves today, i gotta go put my vac lines back together so it can carry me to work in an hour... still wondering about the miss...

first off, i thoroughly cleaned everything when i did the spfi swap. manifold, egr, iacv, tb, dist, fuel pump... i even cleaned the jy's paint pen marks off my ecu! i bead blasted the egr passages of the manifold and made damn sure there was no glass in there before i painted it. i cleaned the egr as well as i could and verified it's operation by "manually" applying vac (i stuck a hose on there and sucked) and it opened, but it was quite difficult to get it to move far. i figured that might be normal and forgot about it. second, i know the egr soledoid is getting vac cuz i checked that when i was getting that code for the faulty solenoid. every inch of vac, pcv, coolant and rubber fuel line is brand new, so there's no cracks, leaks or clogs there. also, i have oem gaskets on the egr, intake man, tb base and others so i'd hope there's no leaks there. based on your inputs, i think it may be one or two things: 1. the oil dipstick is missing the pull handle and has a split down the rubber so that may be a small vac leak. i was planning on replacing it but i can never remember when i'm at the jy (i was there on sunday, too:banghead:). also, the hvac controls are really weak so i think i'll cap that vac port to eliminate any possible leaks in there until i finish "remodeling" my interior. 2. i remember from when i was checking things while fixing the code 34 issue that the egr is closed at idle (cold & warm), opens when i goose the throttle, and closes right back up as rpm's come down. also, it doesn't seem to open up very much. so, should it be open at warm idle and how much should it open when i goose the throttle? i know its not a vac supply issue so i may be looking at replacing the egr. GD, how would i test for a miss at idle or low rpm? i'm leaning toward thinking this is what it is because it still misses under heavy acceleration when its cold. if i really lay into it right after starting and taking off with the engine still cold it misses - the more i let into it, the more it misses. once its warm it goes away (or becomes unnoticeable) even right after startup. and the basics (almost forgot): idles at 1500-2000 cold, around 750 warm timing is at 20 deg btdc has plenty of power/torque (for what it is ) mileage looks to be in the low 30's everything besides the spfi, k&n 3" conical air filter and anti-obama/mccain sticker is stock

i'm sure it will pass after i get done jumping through these hoops, i just don't know how to interpret the data from the sniffer to see what i need to fix. the ref should give me a sticker to show my new spfi specs and then i'll be able to pass a visual inspection. like i said, i've got an appt with the ref on wed so i just need to find out what i need to fix to bring my hc and no down by then so i can hit up the smog shop on the way home from there. i was thinking about it and i haven't readjusted my valves or changed my oil since i did my hg's, maybe that has something to do with it...? i'll probably do that tomorrow morning as well as replace my leaking pressure sending unit (new one's on the bench next to the new oil/filter:rolleyes:). i'm just waiting for someone to say i failed cuz the oil from my k&n has my maf all gunked up...

i finally found someone that would hook my car up to the sniffer without automatically failing me upon visual inspection and it still failed! here's the readout... 15mph@1849rpm: %co2 - 14.2 %02 - 0.7 ppm hc - max: 144 measured: 219 %co - max: 0.88 measured: 0.56 ppm no - max: 1175 measured: 2749 25mph@2888rpm: %co2 - 15.1 %02 - 0.1 ppm hc - max: 120 measured: 66 %co - max: 0.68 measured: 0.22 ppm no - max: 1005 measured: 968 visual inspection report shows the following anticipated remarks: air injection - missing vac lines, carb/fuel injection, other emissions components - modified ignition timing: 20 btdc - fail i knew i'd fail visual but i'm suprised by the results of the sniffer test. the cat was new when i bought the car (about 7 months ago) and everything else is either new/rebuilt/cleaned. all tune up stuff and o2 sensor are new, oil has 200miles on it. i've got an appointment with a ref on wed to take care of the visual, but i need to figure out why my hc and no are too high in low rpm test. any help is appreciated!

yeah... i think i'm gonna keep looking for a d/r 5speed.

since you guys are talking o2 signals and leaning mixtures (albeit by totally different means), here's my latest off-the-wall question: is there a way to modify the signal from my spfi o2 so that it leans my injector out just a hair for better mileage or will the ecu simply compensate... get confused and throw codes... get pissed and commit hari-kari? my hatch is doing pretty good but with gas at $4.60/gal locally and climbing i'll do anything for mpg's. well, almost anything. hell, i'd put a goddamn sail on that thing if i thought it'd help.

first off, can i install an rx ft4wd 5speed in my hatch using the same or roughly equivalent retrofitting parts/procedures as for any ea82 d/r 5speed? they use 3.70 diffs, right? so i'd have to swap out my rear diff and wire in the front diff lock but other that than is it the same? second, are these transmissions as reliable and generally as capable off road? i know the on demand d/r 5speeds have a lower l/r, but i'm not talking climbing trees - i'm talking about when i take my hatch down old muddy sierra nevada fire roads in ca "winters." i've got buddies that get old 440 power wagons with 4.10's stuck up there so its obviously not about power or gearing. third, how would the mileage compare between a ft4wd 5 and an on-demand d/r 5? the 3.70's should at least make up for the mpg loss of ft4wd, right? finally, about the rear diff. i found a 3.70 lsd on an ea82t wagon with an auto tranny. am i setting myself up for a mess of axle spline issues or are they all the same? i really don't have the budget to buy axles on top of everything else. sorry to lump it all together but i found all these parts this afternoon, did some searching/reading and only came up with more questions...

i did it with about 2 - 3 ounces seafoam and a balance of proper oil to the proper level. i can't say whether its safe for lsd's or not. i imagine that might be kind of a gamble but i'm not well educated when it comes to lsd's so i can't speak with authority on the matter. i'm sure somebody here can tell you, though.

my hatch has 177k (which ain't too much by standards around here) and the gear oil came out reeeeeal dark, certainly original oil. after driving with the seafoam in there the oil came out just as dark and it wasn't noticeably thinned though the viscosity certainly was lowered. also, the first time i drained it very little chunky gunk came out with the last bit of oil. after seafoaming there was a steady stream of chunky gunk to the last drop of oil. i considered basically "rinsing" it and replacing the oil again in a few hundred miles but that's probably overkill, especially considering how much this oil costs. i set my timing a few days earlier and noticed my car had much more oompf and when i did my diff i also put my tires at 38psi in the front and 35psi in the rear. i had been pretty dissapointed with my mileage (it was in the low 20's somewhere) but it looks like it's gone up drasticly on account of those few things (i know its mostly the timing being corrected:rolleyes:). looks to be in the 30's now but i'll need some more time to verify.

i decided to replace the oil in my rear diff and thought maybe i'd try cleaning it out a bit in the process. so i drained the oil and refilled it with a few ounces of seafoam and then oil to the level, then i drove it on the freeway for a good 15 minutes. got it home, drained and refilled with fresh oil. seems like it helped, its noticably quieter (psychosomatic?) and certainly cleaner. i'm sure this is nothing new, but any opinions on this personal experiment?

i don't think that would be very lucrative, probably not even worth it for either party in fact. especialy not worth it (imo) when you consider the harness can be bought from a yard for $10 - $20 around here. i'd rather spend the time on it than money and come out with intimate knowledge of my car. i think that if someone wants to do the swap they should do their own harness. gave me a much better understanding of the system and made me much more comfortable with working on it and all auto electrical in general.

i must say as someone who has successfully performed an spfi conversion that i'm glad i did it. for one, my mileage makes my friends and family cry when they limp their cars to the gas station every week.:-p i trust my car now (well, except for the tranny but that's another story). my carb was pretty bad off so my newfound faith in my hatch's ability to carry me hence may not have much weight to it but in doing the swap i learned enough about the spfi system that i've been able to fix all the problems i've had with it since installation and i'm confident that i can fix whatever i may need to in the future. and so you know, these are the problems i've had: code 34 - egr solenoid circuit malfunction (replaced solenoid with more reliable nippondenso unit from a toyota - notice how new gen subarus use those nippondenso solenoids) lost spark while test driving during swap (cuz one of the nuts on the terminals of my coil was loose, simple fix - make sure it has a split washer if this happens to you) bad missing/bogging under heavy acceleration, especially in higher gears (timing was set to 8deg for ea81 spec - set timing at 20deg for spfi spec and its happy now) and that's it. my spfi parts came off a 92 loyale from co that was the junkyard ragdoll when i found it. i expected to have to replace all kinds of parts but even with the abuse and neglect it suffered all i have replaced is that egr solenoid, the iacv ($5 at another yard) and regular maintenance items. now for the reality check - this is NOT an easy swap. you will NOT be able to do this in a weekend. GD, myself, and others are here to help anyone who wants to do it but i refuse to let anyone belive this swap is easy. there's a lot of stuff you'll be forced to figure out for yourself like how to rig your air cleaner, how to configure and where to locate your added fuses/fusibles/relays, etc. also, GD has done a great job of providing info in his writeup, but you'll most likely be wondering what the hell he is talking about in some parts of the wiring section () so just ask. its not easy, but its definitely been worth it for me! ...now if i could only smog the thing and be done...

'cept cali...

this one? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=87100&highlight=ecu+pinout i scanned over it to see if anyone gave a link to pinouts or something but after rereading it i think i should be pursuing an egr equipped manifold - the 95 ecu won't even communicate with a scanner through the 96 vehicle/harness. or an egr equipped 2.2 manifold?

anyone have reliable pinout diagrams for obd II 95 & 96 ej22 & ej25? looking for ecu pinouts for all four year/engine combos but at least for a 95 ej22 and a 96 ej25 or if someone can point me in the right direction i'd appreciate that too (please don't bother saying search the forums, though - i did) got the 92 ej22 i put into this guy's 96 outback running beautifully without a cel for the egr as anticipated (96 ej25 had an egr, 92 ej22 has no egr and so the egr solenoid connector is not hooked into anything). i've driven around a bit, got it up to temp and fiddled with other stuff over and over but i'm still waiting for the egr code to show up. should we just smog it as is...? i got a 95 obd II ej22 (no egr) ecu thinking maybe when the egr code came up i could swap in the 95 ecu. well, i tried swapping it in to see what would happen and the 95 ecu won't even run the 92 ej22 through the 96 harness (with all the 96 sensors, etc.). i'm thinking its cuz of differences in the pinouts so i'd like to check there.

so it is 20 deg for spfi then. well, i just played with it a bit and because of the way that i adapted the ea82 dist and fabbed up a new mounting plate, i had the dist cranked all the way over and was running at about 18 deg with no ill effects. i'm making a new hold down plate that will allow me to rotate the dist throughout the whole 0-20 deg range and i guess i'll experiment from there to see where i get the best mileage. edit: i just pulled the timing back to 8 degrees thinking i'd run the ea81 at it's own spec and that little beast was not happy! it idled well, pulled okay at first but then it was bogging and seemed like it was missing real bad while accelerating. i've got to go to work soon but i'm going to try it at 20 degrees tomorrow, hopefully my beast isn't pissed off at me now.

84 hatch with spfi ea81, spfi parts off 92 loyale with 5speed. should i set it to 8* btdc for the ea81 spec or 20* for what i've read is the spfi spec? also, all i need to do to fiddle with the timing is plug the test mode connectors into each other after warmup, correct? i don't have an fsm that covers spfi cars and i just don't trust the fragmented info in my haynes. thanks

so any 2.2 heads are going to raise the cr? will using 2.2 heads on a 2.5 block reduce the likelyhood of hg failure? anyone have any experience with arp head studs on a stock 2.5 dohc? are they available and do they help reduce long term failure? i know its an aluminum block and you can only put so much pressure on it's threads and i'd guess they'd be pretty pricey so i'm asking more for curiosity than intent.

its bad enough that it would need to be milled, the worse one is .008" off and the other is not bad at all. i checked the block surfaces over and over and i couldn't find more than .002" anywhere and there's no visible cracks. maybe i'm just not doing it right. the engine ran well when i pulled it but i didn't think to do a comp check. i don't really know how much the guy overheated it - neither does he for that matter, he said the temp gauge was all over the place. i don't want to hotrod the engine. if i don't just end up selling it i'll use it to replace the 2.2 in my wife's legacy while i go to town on it doing anything i can to up the mileage. after that i'll probably sell the 2.5 anyways which is why i don't want to bother tearing it down. i can get a set of 95 ej22 heads in good shape for $120 but i need to know if they'll bolt up and how they'll affect the engine.

i'm a libertarian, not a liberal. i doubt that anyone who's interested in maintaining the ridiculous status quo could ever see the difference though. wow, you need to turn the tv off and read something that hasn't been funded by oil or gov't. this thread is now officially a lost cause.

from the swap i'm doing, its a 96 ej25 with 170k and bad hg's. i pulled the heads and the left head is warped badly, probably could be milled to spec but i don't think i wanna mess with these heads. block looks good, bottom end is sound so i'd like to do something with it. i can get a set of rebuilt heads for $200 but i've seen references to "frankenstein" engines with 2.5 blocks, 2.2 heads, etc and i'm interested in going that route... what different heads (engines and years, please) will fit this block? i don't really want to tear into the bottom end but any build recommendations are appreciated! eidt: i did some reading and i'm just having trouble finding clear specific info. everything is phase II this, phase I that - i don't know the differences hence the request for years. also, i wanna run on regular fuel! i'm just looking to build this thing up a bit if its not too ridiculous then maybe drop it into my wife's legacy. if my best option for this goal is just new hg's and rebuilt dohc 2.5 heads i can do that but i'm leary of future hg issues (which i've read are mostly cuz of the heads...true?) i'll be reading up in the meantime, thanks

anyone know how this stuff holds up? i've debated tying to help parts of my sunbaked interior with a similar product but i want to know how this stuff looks down the road.

read post #27, please. i think its the third paragraph...

true, just try to build and operate an hho system and you'll find hho technology is far from a free lunch. that (just like your age) is an irrelevant point. to say that population growth alone is responsible for global warming completely ignores the science behind the situation. the data shows that global warming is caused primarily by the industrial revolution and the technologies spawned since then. sure, the industrial rev and the tech boom have led to exponential pop growth, and that pop growth has compounded the effects and increased the rate of global warming, but the real culprit is certainly dirty technologies. to say that reducing one's carbon footprint is folly is downright stupid! are you mad?!? there is data showing how bad things will get if we don't change our ways and there is also data that shows how great a positive impact the little things can make. you really should do some more looking into this thing before you convince somebody else to take the irresponsible, ignorant and hazardous approach you have. wrong again!!! reaseach it and you'll see, according to the epa and all the scientific data i've read - transportation engines (cars, trucks, trains, planes & boats) are the number one source followed by power plants. pointing the finger does nothing but prove you have no interest in doing your part. and yes, i've lived months without electricity before and i'll gladly do it permanently though that's not necessary. there are technologies capable of replacing coal and diesel power plants but we can't affor them cuz we're spending billions of dollars to bring "democrasy" to the terrorist's homeland. i have looked into gasification and its not a viable long-term alternative. the amount of wood you burn and trees you destroy creates a hell of a carbon footprint, defeating my purpose. its not my intent to offend you raveeen, but you are clearly ignorant of the truth behind this situation. may i suggest that you at least watch a documentary or two?

my wife and i had this same problem with the belts in the back seat of her 97 legacy wagon. the majority of the problem was that the buckle end is too long and it makes it impossible to secure the base. i took the buckle end out then took it to a seamstress i know and had her shorten it. its a little harder to buckle now but it tightens up safely and she fixed it in exchange for a few hours of babysitting. i thought about heading to the jy to find a seatbelt set that would work but this works well and i like to avoid using currency anyways.