mountaingoatgruff

that sucks. what do other guys with older cars over there do about their a/c?

after learning that the dealership wants like $580.00 for the rubber intake plenum in spfi cars, i guess i'd believe a lot. that's no joke - that's highway robbery!

what you want is a retrofit kit, most likely for use with 134a. they can be bought at auto parts stores around here. just remember that this is not a diy unless you're hvac qualified and if you're asking this question - you're not qualified. take it to a shop that regularly services automotive a/c's and they'll hook you up, its a routine proceedure.

when i do water pumps with other work i always like to flush the system real well. i've had good results with prestone's flush in the little yellow bottle. i leave it in for a couple few days of regular driving (which you may not be able to do if the pump is good'n'skrewd) then when i pull everything apart i use a garden hose to flush the block and rad further. also, i don't know if ea82's have the drain bolts on the heads but lots of chunky junk likes to settle around those things regardless of what engine they're on. use a good sealant and you won't need to replace the washers - i never have. anyone with cooling problems ever tried purple ice? i used it in a built dodge 360 and it cooled things a noticeable amount.

does 355 mean $355.00?!? screw that, dude!!! i used 1/4" fi rated fuel line and some good stainless clamps for that hose and the one from the tb to the heater core hardline. works just fine with no leaks.

although the law stating such is clearly unconstitutional, distilling that type of stuff is highly illegal and cuz i'd like to raise my son myself i won't be doing anything like that. producing fuel-grade methanol is hard to do and it's really best used as a gasoline additive. consult the works of dr. tom reed of the biomass energy foundation, he did a lot of methanol research in the 70's and currently works within the b.e.f. researching and creating pratical applications for gasification. i thought it was quite interesting to read his article on methanol in the dec '73 issue of science journal. the world has been saying the same thing over and over for decades and the powers that be refuse to let us live on anything but fossil fuels. what kind of people doom their own posterity to the fate that awaits our crashing environment? i guess the same kind that commit genocide to steal a continent, police the globe under the pretense of "democracy," and exploit their fellow citizen's medical needs for cash...god bless america, eh? but i digress...the article: http://www.woodgas.com/Science1.pdf

personally, i think alcocol is a waste of time, but here's a couple sites that *claim* to sell conversion kits: flextek.com change2e85.com just google the names if putting them into the address bar doesn't work, that's what i had to do. i say its a waste of time because it ethanol (the alcohol i assume you're refering to) doesn't solve our problems. i understand that you're one guy tying to do something for himself though. i've been looking into gasification and the use of hydrogen derrived from dialysis (which many will argue is also a waste of time). our gov't is selling out it's people to opec, un, "healthcare" corps and the like, we just gotta take matters into our own hands!! p.s. - IMPEACH BOOSH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!RON PAUL FOR PREZ!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

this is the scene under the hood: the evaporated coolant mess is only within a 10" radius of the rad and overflow caps. i watched in the rad and the overflow and saw some bubbles in the rad but not the overflow. it was pretty low in there, so i filled it and the bubbles may have been just air making it's way out. i also noticed the at fluid temp light blinking after i started the car, but it went away a bit later. scanning showed nothing wrong, of course. i'm going to clean the opening of the rad really well and top off the coolant then with a known good cap i'll check everything out again. any suggestions for pinpointing a failed hg or isolating the problem elsewhere? its not obvious at this point and i'd love to find something else wrong!

sweet. i'll let the dude decide whether he wants to find & buy a 96+ manifold or if he'll have me wire in the 92. so does subaru make so many parts interchangeable on purpose? its really nice to start out thinking "man if i could only..." and end up finding out you can! also, since i'll probably be left to deal with the bad ej25, any suggestions there? could it be trusted after resurfacing/pressure testing/rebuilding the heads, assuming there's no warp in the crankcase surfaces, or would it barely be worth selling as is?

so the outback is a 2.5, good call guys. the symptoms as explained to me seem to be that there's exhaust gasses in the rad, temp gauge goes up and down randomly while driving and the car is loosing coolant slowly. pretty sure that's a hg, right? i told him i don't really want to do hg on a 2.5 after all i've heard about them. i suggested swapping in a 2.2 and he really wants to go that route. so, to put a 92 ej22 into a 96 auto outback all i need to do is 1. use a matched flexplate & torque converter (both from one engine or the other) 2. either wire the ej25 intake harness to the ej22's or get a 96+ ej22 intake i guess the exhaust flanges are the same between the dual-port ej22 and the ej25 then? also, would i need to swap out the ej25's ecu for a 96+ ej22's if i use a 96+ ej22 intake? if by wiring the ej25 harness to the older ej22 intake i can avoid replacing the ecu then that's good to know too.

for sure, but i'll wait till he calls again and ask him to verify. figures, but i just thought i'd ask. i'm sure the newer heads have equivalent or greater flow then? personally i prefer the aesthetics of a 4-2-1 header under an older ej. does anybody make them?

i was told the outback has a 2.2, but i haven't checked myself. the obd vs obdII thing is why i anticipated some wiring work but just looking at this 92 ej22 and my 97 legacy that seems okay. i'll be calling the guy later and seeing if i can't pull the heads and maybe just do hg's! just for curiosity's sake... do early dual port heads flow better and if so, can they be used on later ej22's? i mean, could you take a 96 or 97 ej22 and bolt up 92 heads or would it even be worthwhile? edit: goodyear t-belt is $36 at my local kragens with 1year warranty.

so a 96 engine is single port exhaust? maybe better off just doing hg's on the 96 engine... car has coolant in the exhaust while running and has been overheated a bit so i was thinking swap the engine. would i be okay doing hg's & having the heads resurfaced or does overheating render the bottom end suspect? also, any trouble with a goodyear timing belt? i know the "dealer only" rotine and i agree but trying to save a friend $.

doin an engine swap and wondering, are there compatability issues between an early ej22 from a 92 auto fwd sedan and a 96 obw auto awd? i expect to have to swap connectors here and there, i would think the maf's are the same, as well as the flywheels and the torque converters. should go in without too much trouble, right?

the reason i ask is because i've looked around and seen these engines go for anywhere from $150 to $1400 and that's actually just quotes for a longblock in this area. i pulled this thing to use it of course, but my goal may be better served by selling this one and buying another seeing as how i can get another running ej22 with about 190k for less than i paid for this one. i don't want to gouge anybody so i'm just wondering what a fair price for a low mile ej22 in central ca would be. i see these engines on craigslist every once in a while in the $400-$600 range with no mileage listed and i guess i just don't want to feel like a crook if i ask for $600 for the engine including all sensors, alt and torque converter (i'm keeping the harness and ecu).

i have an ej22 with harness (comlete harness w/ fusebox, relays, dash section, engine section, trans bits...much more than necessary for swap to say the least), ecu, y-pipe and the engine is complete from maf to oil pan and squeaky clean. came from my aunt's 92 2wd auto legacy sedan with 112k miles (i have a pics of car and odometer) that had rear end collision damage. without listing the stuff as being for sale i got an offer of $300 and i'm wondering what a mess of parts like this could get in central ca, i'd rather keep it than sell it for $300.

i asked the smog referee on the phone and he said that in order for my car to be tested and smog certified as a 92 loyale all emissions related equipment installed from the 92 loyale must be transfered without modification. any modification to those systems would need further inspection and certification of compliance from the ca air resources board and those parts would then be considered "aftermarket." maybe i'm not talking to the right referee here, maybe i'm being overly defensive, maybe you guys could just understand my position and let me do with my car what i am going to do anyways. some day when i get out of ca i'd be glad to toss the solenoids and use resistors to satisfy the ecu. i may do it after i get my initial smog certification out of the way. what this boils down to for me is that i don't want to deal with state employee jerkoffs deeper in my junk than absolutely necessary and i don't want to have to drive my car all over ca for a referee inspection then a c.a.r.b. inspection then a sniffer test and to the dmv between each. i don't feel a need to justify my position beyond what i've already said and i certainly don't need to prove my level of mechanical understanding to anyone on the internet. i made it plain what i was after and that i am not going to change my mind, why can't you guys accept that?

why is it that when somebody disagrees with you they automatically must not understand? you guys assume that because i don't want to do what you're saying i'm too dumb to figure out how. you guys should run for office, you're both fit to be politicians with your ideas and methods to "help" people. i know the solenoids disable the systems until warmup, that was said quite a while ago. what neither of you seem to understand is that a smog referee will be inspecting my car to verify that the solenoids are doing that. i just got off the phone with the cali air resources board and the cali bureau of automotive repair and i spoke personally to my local smog ref. if you guys heard those conversations you'd understand my position. the man that will be inspecting my car said he will check to see that everything is hooked up PROPERLY. its not a matter of whether he'll actually do all those checks, i don't want to leave the opportunity for him to say "this isn't right." by the way, what you're insisting i should do is illegal in ca. you two need to educate yourselves in ca smog laws if you're going to instruct ca residents on how to "repair" their cars.

like i said, i'm making an educated decision to decline performing this proceedure. i just want to do it properly, regardless of the possibilities. the fact is what i'm doing to my car is illegal in ca under normal circumstances. i expect to have issues when i take my car in to be smogged and i expect to have to request that a referee allow me to smog my car as an 84 gl with a 92 engine or as a 92 car (same test). the visual inspection will probably catch that i did all sorts of other things to the car, like chop off the asv's and weld the pipes. those sorts of modifications may cause further issues that i am not interested in dealing with so i'm trying to limit how much is modified (like for the asv pipes i've got one flange w/out a port and i'm trying to find another). i want everything related to and used by the fuel injection system to be working as it should, which is as it would from the factory or as close as it is possible to get it. this means i wont bypass or modify systems/components/parts where proper repair can be made. i'm choosing to have issues with the car now, before the gov't is involved, so that once they are i can hope things will be as painless as possible.

the problem here is that i said "as it should." bypassing the solenoids may allow the system to operate in a way that satisfies their requirements but not mine. i am going to repair the defects in my car to allow it to work properly - i'm not going to modify it further to just get it to work. that is not solving the root cause of the problem, its just circumventing it. i understand these systems just fine and what i don't know i'm learning. i really don't appreciate the way you insult my intelligence. if i wasn't interested in going that route when gloyale suggested what makes you think i'd suddenly want to do it after you browbeat me like that? the way you go on about the evap/purge system makes it obvious that you're the one lacking understanding here. can you use your awesome konwledge and rhetoric to explain to me how disabling the purge solenoid allows the system to operate "as it should?" why don't you just stick to correspondence with the portion of the usmb crowd that worships you and doesn't seem to mind when you crap on them?

first off, i'm definitely not going to be doing anything to circumvent any emmissions equipment. as it is i'm not too sure how much trouble i'll have smogging this thing and if i do have trouble i want to know everything is working as it should. i tested the solenoid by stripping a bit of each wire, clamping one between the battery terminal and it's cable clamp and touching the other wire to the other terminal. no signs of life - it didn't click/open. testing this way would provide enough conduction wouldn't it - it shoulda opened? checked voltage at solenoid connector on car after warmup and my multimeter showed 13.45volts. i reconnected the solenoid and noticed when you goose the throttle the egr diaphragm opens slightly and immediately recloses. when you quickly rev to and hold high rpm's it doesn't open at all. i checked the operation of the egr before installing and it opened smoothly without too much effort then. sounds to me like i just replaced a bad solenoid with another bad solenoid...

so i got a solenoid off a 91 toyota corolla that is closed when off, has the same plug, and is mfd by nippondenso: the writing says the port with the hose attached is the vacuum supply (so i hooked that to the tb) and the other would go the the egr. i plugged it in and let the hatch come to temp. while cold the egr wouldn't open and it idles much smoother so we're okay there now. but after warm-up the egr still wouldn't open and the code 34 comes back (this is with the ecu on the floor not grounded, so you guys are right - that's obviously not the problem). i removed the solenoid and was going to try seeing if i could get it to open when i realized i didn't really know how i would do that in the first place. does the mount of the solenoid need to be grounded? which wire receives 12v or is it both? i tried messing with it a bit but i don't wanna fry it... it may be a $3 part but the gas to get me there is $3.70/gal out here! i need to know how to test this thing so i can verify that its okay and then rule that out. thanks edit: just thought i'd mention - after lookind at dave's pic, the toyota solenoids we have look the same. mine had the black cylinder on the port its on now and the other two were hooked up to rubber lines. it wasn't an egr solenoid in it's original life but i didn't think that'd matter. also, i looked at hondas but those cars were a mess at this yard and it was too hard to find anything in that area...engines and transaxles strewn about...doors and hoods piled between cars...those ricer guys are hacks.

i think i remember seeing in a post that somebody had an ea82 power steering rack in their ea81 car. can that be done? if so, can you also use an ea82 p/s pump?

subaru didn't use "molded" carpet so there's no molded kits available for gl's. i just looked cuz i'm replacing the carpet in my 84 hatch. i ended up buying 4 yards of bulk from auto carpet direct online. i had a good experience with them and the carpet i got (plain cutpile in navy blue) looks to be higher quality than subaru's oem stuff from 84. their website is automotivecarpet.com in case you decide to go that way and wanna check them out. as far as the seats... i'm replacing my fronts. i called around to auto upholstery shops and they're ridiculously expensive out here, especially if you need foam repair. replacing can be much cheaper and if you wanna take the time/effort to make something else fit you can upgrade your seats, too. i haven't decided what to do about my back seat, but i'll probably eventually have it recovered to match my fronts after i actually install them months from now.

yeah, i suppose that whole 10 years older thing might be something to consider while looking. all the asian imports are spread out along the back of the yard i go to, i was just thinking of saving time is all. i definitely don't mind the extra time to find a good part rather than go through this again in the near future.