mountaingoatgruff

where can i find info for this? dates, location and such.

aside from sounding like a skin condition it seems like another soccer-mom taxi. i'm with subpar - no point in dancing around this one, it's a glorified minivan. my parents had a voyager for years and i hated it. maybe subaru can do that market some good.

how does one recover the refrigerant? my dad is the guy doing the a/c work as i really don't know much about them. i hate to admit it but he's the kind of guy that used to clean parts with gasoline by the sidewalk (but he's quit doing that) and i don't think he recovers anything.:-\ the car is a 97 legacy with 134a from the factory. nothing looks like it was messed with in that way but its impossible to know for sure without comparing everything to an fsm or something. could faulty parts cause the compressor to run constantly and not cycle?

uh, forget i said that...suffice it to say i lose track of what page i'm on sometimes...

i've only had u-joints go bad on me once and that was in my old 79 gmc 3/4 ton. i had the thing way overloaded with wrought iron stair balusters and drove 80 miles that way in the dead of summer two years ago, pulling over occasionally to cool down. after that day the u-joints started popping when shifting and the truck developed tranny issues later on. the stuff may have been on it's way out but either way - that's the only time i've ever had bad u-joints. my point: i don't even mess with them. i grease serviceable ball joints, repack wheel bearings and all that but i don't even look for zerks on u-joints.

the coolant enters the intake primarily from the two ports on the heads. it travels out from the cylinder jackets into the heads and enters the intake through those oval ports to the inboard sides of each circular fuel/air port. you can't block those or you'll have an air-cooled subaru and its anybodies' guess how long that would take to blow up! the hose from the center front of the block is just a bypass so blocking that won't help.

yup, that's right. for short term uses like hours or days its not as big a deal but for long term use proper application is critical for sure.

i'm sure the manufacturers of decent auomotive bearings can tell you what the service interval is for their product. i'm not going to argue that its bad to pump more grease into a bearing that's got water or dirt in it but i doubt that simply pumping more grease in would fully eliminate the contamination.

that's probably common knowledge to those who know a/c systems, huh? anyhow, i'll try taking some of the 134a out and see what happens. i also noticed but forgot to mention earlier that the compressor didn't cycle at all. any time the a/c is on it stays on, is that normal for these cars?

my wife's 97 legacy l wagon is our only street legal car right now and so its getting used a ton. with the 100+ heat wave we've also been riding the a/c pretty hard, too. the air gets cold but the problem is it takes a good while if the car's been sitting a few minutes or more. by good while i mean maybe 10 minutes on hot days and 15-20 minutes on blazin hot days. i'm not used to driving little cars past early 90's but it seems most later models that i've ridden in get noticeably colder way faster than our legacy. my '01 dodge pickup would give you nho's in two minutes flat on any 100* day but it was a standard cab v8. we hooked a manifold up and tried to recharge it but the gauges showed it was already overcharged. haynes said low side should be 19-36 and high side ?(can't remember)-250. system was at about 50 on ls and 290 on hs at idle with everything warmed up and a/c on recirc/full blast. we rev'ed the engine a bit to see if the compressor would get more suction and with the engine holding about 1500rpm manifold showed 34 on ls, 310 on hs. shouldn't the values be in spec at idle? does that indicate a weak compressor or could it be just air/moisture in the system? we noticed leak detection dye on the service ports but all parts look to be original. i can try flushing and replacing the oil, reefer & receiver/drier, but i don't know that i don't need a new/rebuilt compressor. i'm debating about what to do so any suggestions would be appreciated. also, are compressor rebuild kits available? that would save me a buttload of cash if i could find one!

yeah, i see bearings on our diecutting and corrugating machines at work go to crap all the time cuz guys insist on greaing them till they ooze every week!! you'd think a $480 swiss made bearing would last more than 7 months...

after rereading post #3, i'd say tom's got you on the right track for sure! i'd be amazed if felpro intake gaskets failed so quickly, i doubt they'd sell them if that were the case. i couln't find just a carb base gasket except from the dealership so when i was messing around with my carb i cut a couple gaskets out of a roll of gasket paper i had lying around, felpro brand i think. just don't cut a hole for the coolant port on the intake and it works fine.

i agree, i don't think they do it right that's all. if the ca gov't was actually interested in reducing emissions there would be thousands of electric cars on ca roads. instead they force us to spend hundreds of dollars complying with pointless regulations like those i'm faced with while trying to increase the efficiency of my engine and then they sit back and collect the taxes. if they cared about smog i wouln't be mummified in red tape right now. good luck, bacon!

i got the felpro set from kragen's and the oem intake gaskets at the dealership. i think the intake gaskets were like $14. the oem intake gaskets are reinforced with a thin sheet of metal in the middle while the felpro ones are just poorly die cut from a solid sheet of their black material - apparently without any reinforcement of any kind. i used all the other felpro gaskets and seals, even the exhaust stuff that some guys say is oem only stuff too. i really want to see if i have any problems there, but i wasn't about to mess around with the intake side. i also rebuild my throttle body before installing and i just used a niehoff kit for that. no problems there either. edit: i replaced a ton of crap while doing my spfi swap including the pvc, all hoses fliuds and filters, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, o2, crank seals, resealed oil pump, cleaned out my oil pan and then some. all that "extra" stuff certainly helped to assure things would be kosher once i did get it running!

i used the felpro head set when i replaced my heads but i made sure i used oem intake gaskets and i've had no troubles. i taped the felpro ones to the mating surfaces of my old carb'ed intake to protect it from gouges...

just wait till i finish jumping through the hoops for those fascists to get my spfi'ed hatch tagged! i'm waiting to share so i can post it all at once...

just out of curiosity, where are the fpcu and fp relay located? i read up a bit and i think the big black box with the mitsu logo located just above the hood release handle would be the fpcu, right? i read a post in which GD said the fp relay is likely to be found under the pass seat but i definitely don't have one there (maybe for a different car?) and i didn't even see a fp relay in a quick scan of my 84 fsm's wiring diagrams. i know my hatch had no problems with fuel delivery (until the fuel got to the carb:rolleyes:) so if i can find them and eliminate them with no adverse side effects, i'd be glad to give them both to you, subyrally...just say the word. i still have the carb'ed fuel pump too but i'm not sure what it'd cost to ship that.

i've been told that i go overboard sometimes, but i would definitely replace the intake gaskets if you suspect there's leakage in either one. it's a good way to get in there and clean things up and for as much labor and money as you must have into it by now its not much more to replace the intake gaskets, they're like $14/pair at my closest dealership. do yourself a favor and soak the intake bolts with a penetrating oil and give it time to work so you don't snap any of them. i like to use deep creep, but that stuff isn't easy to find around here. while you're letting whatever you use work you could cheep-o flush your coolant system with a garden hose to get some junk out. i pull the rad hoses, t-stat, and housing off then go to town. sounds like you're making progress and maybe addressing some important issues, so things aren't all bad!!

don't all ea81 engines have a coolant passage at the base of the carb? if you pull the carb off, that creates the opportunity for water/coolant to get down into the intake. the level in the rad is higher than the carb pad and gravity forces coolant upwards out of that coolant port on the intake. happened to me when i pulled my hatch's carb. if you can't see the little coolant port just in front of the air/fuel port of the intake it's probably caked with crud or rust (from carb base) or whatever.

have you tried changing the fuel filter? i'd do a full tune-up if this is to be your daily driver from now on.

i thought about looking for something in a jy, but i found the part i got while i was lollygagging in the car audio store's a/c. it was 100 yesterday (breaking this area's previous record of 96 for that calendar day) and its supposed to be 104 today. that car audio stuff isn't cheap, but that's just how i am with heat - needless to say, my wife didn't have to twist my arm to get me to leave the current a/c in the hatch and just relocate the battery...

i think its already sold, the guy still hasn't replied to my fourth email. anybody else tried calling the number? i just sent another email but i have a feeling they're not even being read...

yeah, i called the number and some teeny-bopper chick answered. i tried again to make sure i didn't misdial and she cussed me out. so i emailed the cl reply address a couple times and got no reply. that was last week actually. i told my cousin about it and that's what brought up my step-uncle's svx. if i could get ahold of the guy i'd snatch that svx for sure!

i wanted to get some good heavy gauge cable for the battery so i went to a local car audio shop and found this power distibution block while i was there: i also scored big time at costco (don't read this part if you're a retail giants' rights advocate). i went with my father in law so i could get in and got an optima battery, a jug of cat litter and about four small items. we got to the checkout and we asked if i could pay with my bank card even though i'm not a member and i guess we distracted the lady enough that she didn't ring up the battery or the litter. i didn't notice myself till we got to the door and the guy checking receipts was on his cell phone and didn't notice either. so i got a $130 optima and about $45 of other stuff for $35! thank you, costco! i will come again! anyhow, i'll probably put the battery in the same spot pooparu has his, then i'll run 4g cable to the power dist block, 4g to the starter and i'll split another 4g to three 10g leads for the fusilbles. i'll run a 4g ground cable if i have enough 4g left otherwise i have some 6g for that and the engine ground strap. should work grrrrrreat!

i looked at the svx, bad tranny for sure. it doesn't want to move in reverse or shift into drive after trying. i'm not sure about the rest of the car but i asked the dude straight up if he would come down some and he got butthurt at the idea that i would barter with him even after he offered he his "special family price." he kept going on about his stupid rims - "those were a g alone!" yeah, he's that kind of guy. i said piss on him and told him if he cares to pull his head out of his @%# he knows where to find me. really sucks cuz i hadn't seen an svx in real life before that and it was love at first sight! i was pleased with how comfortable the car felt, too. on with the cl searches... i guess is should ask though, is $2300 high for a 94 with a bad tranny? that was beyond my budget really, but for future reference.