Martin

well around here it's not too bad. by "blue lights" i was refering to those that the newer cars are coming with these days that give off an intenese white light. so far i have some weather vision type bulbs that sortof have some spectrum to them and make it better to see in fog etc, but just not too good on wet pavement. my other options is just some high wattage bulbs, but as i though i recall stories about certain things you have to do to prevent melting of wires and housing. i'm sure some rally people around here should be able to help with that. anyone have some experience with 55/100W bulbs??

So I tried to do a search on this because I thought I remember this fromt the past, but I couldn't find anything. What types of bulbs and wattages are people running for their sealed headlights. Has anyone tried those blue lights? Any better vision with that? How are they in the rain? Has anyone had problems with higher wattages and their wiring, or melting of other components?

it seems that on certain occasions... usually when the car is first started, that the right turn signal seems to be shorting out. It will be working, but in a very weird patten and the voltmeter will start diving almost to the bottom. Only seems to happen to the right side, but then this will go away. Any ideas??

ok, so i just noticed that my door lock mechanism was really easy to turn... a little too easy, it doesn't lock anymore. my driver door lock has been going downhill for a while now. it went from not having to hold the handle down to having to use the key to lock it. what can i check once taking all of the trip apart to get this working again before my door doesn't lock at all??

what are the various sizes of sway bars that come on different subes?

before you changed the oil, you might of wanted to try a product that you can add that has some extra detergents to clean it a bit more from the inside. maybe load up on some premium gas with extra cleaning agents and just go drive around on a bit of a trip where you keep the revs around 4000 and above for a while. try to burn everything out of there. i know after some road trips or lots of high revving, these engines seem to run better because all the carbon and other crap gets burnt off.

or just wait till your cat get bad and pretty much just blows out all of it's inners on it's own

still looks pretty sweeeeeet

yep, i will just have to make sure i keep needing excuses to get those apart. on a positive not when i was getting more play by undoing the bottom bolt for the strut, and some bolts on the diff for a little play, they were nice and easy.... hmmm lsd... lol.

cool, that's good to know because my carb is just lagging and the craptachi carb is so slow... when i drive the spfi, it seems really fast, it's exciting knowing that the weber is even better... maybe i'll put that in sometime and forget to mention it to him...

So while my car was being fixed, I was borrowing a friends 94 loyale with the spfi... mine is carb'd... and I love that thing because it is just so much faster off the line and the revs just have no problems climbing up to the red line or whereever. But since my car is super old and nearing the end of it's live, it's not really a fair comparison. I was wondering if a stock 4wd spfi were to drag a stock 4wd weber (well the weber isn't stock, but you get the idea), how close would it be??? who would win? by how much?

Well I finally gave in and paid the shop for about 1.3 hrs of labour, luckily I found a place that would let me use my own parts. It still took them about 2.5 hrs to get it down and eventually it came off with an air hammer. I wish I had air tool at home, haha.

i'm pretty sure there is a really small slit, of about an inch or so in length in the cargo area carpet. i'm pretty sure it's a bit more on the driver's side of centre. i believe it was used to wagons that had the old wagon wheel style wheels that could not be as easily stored under the hood, or for larger tires. but there should be a place there with some threads that you should be able to bolt down to.

i have seen various rear seat belt set up from various years of cars. my 87 gl had 3 lap belts for the rear. the 90 loyale has a lap in the middle and 2 shoulder belts on the side, but the are mounted in a very low positions, are not comfortable and i bet peoples shoulder would be injured because they are so low. then i have seen 92-94 loyales that finally have shoulder belts for that mount about half way back above the back side windows and are actually solid. as far as i can remember for baby seat, i think it might have been good to use the tie down hooks on the tops of the back seats, or even run something to the spare tire hold down in the cargo area.

that best case scenario of tap and turn was used ages ago. it was also done by 2 people, so the other end of the axle was getting pulled and turned while another person was hitting it. it definitely didn't seem like it would have the same amount of movement that the inner side had, what could be causing binding if there is any. will it come off best at certain angles? even with the pin out, i'm sure the binding wouldn't really be a problem cause the whole axle is coming off, but the rust seems to be a serious issue. i am about getting ready (because i dont really have the time to deal with this right now) to find some shop that will quote and guarantee me some hourish time quote and hopefully be able to use my own bearing and get them to do it even if it takes them 6 hrs, and just end up paying for that 1 hr of labour. i just know that when i take it there it will fall off for them after all of my attempts to remove it, i will have finally "loosened" it for them, haha.

so now i have the theory behind this bearing job, and understand why it is said to be easy. however, the rear doj will not budge on the bearing side. got the pin out, and it supposedly this should just slide off like the other side. but it seems like it's pretty seized/rusted on there. try spraying some liquid wrench in there, as well as beating with hammer and even heating it up with a blow torch, but so far it hasn't even moved enough that the pin location is different. what to do??

anyone know what suggested shop time for this job is? want to know how early i might have to get going on this.

p.s. hey tim, do you have a link to the tool on that site? can't seem to find it. also for an 87 it seems to be just showing 1 rear bearing... what year did you just work on?

is this tool mandatory? anything else that might work also to remove it? any idea on what suggested shop time on this job is?

so when out for a drive today, i started hearing some noise coming from the back of the car. sounds like a bit of whining and squealing. when i got home it started tinkering around a bit and without even having the rear wheel off the ground, i feels like it has some lateral play. so i'm thinking that the bearings are shot... how much time does replacing this take on an 87 4wd gl wagon. and what is the procedure for it... i've only done it on a 2wd, i guess i need to pull the rear doj? is there enough play so that just the pin has to be punched out? thanks in advance, need to get started on this quick because i need to log some milage soon. *edit* does anyone know if this model will have 2 bearings or 1 sealed one?

That would be really cool if Subaru's were diesel, not enough cars in North America are. In Europe it's all diesel and all 5-speeds for the most part. VW passats are looking pretty cool, but I dont think they have combined the 4-motion (their awd system) with a diesel yet... sitting on a gold mine! I think everyone would like to have excellent fuel economy and 4wd. I saw some pretty sweet Skoda's when I was in Europe, and they had some turbo diesels with 4wd and 6 speed tranny... I wish I had one here! Europe is sooo much further ahead, when will North America realize that they need to start fixing all these emission problems before it's way too late and gas prices are stupidly high.

yep, subes, especially those with dual range are very impressive, especially in snow when other people are stuck :-)

if you ever took apart your dash, one of the hoses on the back of the def button could have come off because they are a pretty tight fit.

i think the nice pin punch is part # 42885 from sears becasue it's the perfect length for the job. you can also just loosen the front struts inside the engine compartment a bit and that usually has enough play so the joint will come off without having to mess around with ball joints.

lookin' good.