Caboobaroo

Where the heck did you pick these up from and what are they to???

Since Todd has gotten onto the topic of the clutch cable, you might want to replace it when you pull out the old pedal frame since it makes life a lot easier to replce it then instead of waiting after you get it in to replace it. Also, check to see how the throttle cable is doing as well and you might want to spray some lubricant down it to keep it nice a free. You might want to check the pin that holds the brake booster rod to the brake pedal for wear and fatigue.

As far as the lights, I don't really have a clue except you should be able to remove a rubber grommet on the back of the housing and the bulg should come on out. For the battery, I'd go for an Optima personally. I've had good experiences with them but if its a little rich for your blood, maybe try an Interstate battery. I've had one of those in probably 5 or 6 different cars over a couple years and still works like a champ!

or you remove them like me! Thats how I lowered my '78 Brat but for some reason, it lit the rear tires up posi. Oh yeah, it was also RWD too;)

actually, there's a guy on the board that had an RX 3-door that had it vented to the atmosphere and he said he didn;t seem to have any problems with it. We'll find out when my RX gets on the road;)

climb under rear of car and unbolt the muffler. Give you a nice piped out sound to it.

they probably got drained of oil when you pulled the head apart so they have to pressurize back up inside for the ticking to go away.

Now THATS a picture.... I love the pic of my playin in the Brat!

well I know where the knock sensor is and whatnot BUT I can only find one wire that has the same connection for both the FICD and the knock sensor. I'll have to look to see if I can't find another wire in there somewhere...

oh, silly me:-p

I got my '78 Brat free in 2004!

So a couple months ago, I pulled a complete spyder intake off of an '88 XT in the junkyard. I took into account that it had a knock sensor from what I can remember. Now, hooking up the upper portion of the intake, I find only one connection for either the knock sensor or the Fast idle control whatever on the throttle body. Should I have 2 connections for both or was I dreaming when I looked for the knock sensor on the XT? I need to shed some light on this matter ASAP and a wiring diagram would greatly help me from a FSM since the one in my Chiltons is understandable but not really the best in the work, at least not compared to the FSMs I've used in the past. Another option is to wire the knock sensor into the wiring harness from the XT. Would that work too?

Or runnin on two cylinders;)

yeah I saw that lol...

well when I lowered the '87 wagon, We also did the 5-lug conversion on it and the front struts were from a 2wd XT6 so it lowered the front a couple inches where the rear was still the stock height. Nice and raked, yeah. Anyways, I cut 1 1/2 coils from the rear and it leveled it back out pretty nicely. I do know that Impreza/Legacy coilovers from ebay work too. I'm actually putting in some Tien coilovers and struts into my RX for nice handling and kinda a rough ride. The '79 wagon consisted of removing the bumpstops from the front and cutting 3 coils, the rear was reclocking the torsionbars and cutting the bumpstops so it wouldn't hit and the Brat was crankin the torsion bars down all the way and removing the front coils. very rough ride but I got used to it. Made it fun too since it was RWD;) If you can get a whole donor car, there shouldn't be any rewiring at all. Just pull the whole harness out which is a pain in the @$$ don't get me wrong on that one, but it makes it easier then trying to splice it into your original harness which really doesn't work.

let see... you'll need the fuel pump, the engine (duh!), engine wiring harness and ECU, and little stuff but thats really about it. If you can get a complete car and just swap it all over, you'll have all the parts you'll need for the conversion. Oh yeah, and my '79 4wd wagon was lowered, along with my '78 Brat, plus I lowered Hondasuck's '87 GL turbowagon too;)

Hopefully I'll be going to the Dragon meet next year.... Here comes the RX!

so what happened with the cam to make it die? Also, get it torn down and pull it out because I wanna see some pics of it as well. Congrats! Hopefully my RX will be making it onto a course sometime in its lifetime...

yes! My RX is getting lowered, with all the goodies in it that go along with a built EA82T. EJ? HECK NO! EJ's are for quitters! You wanna be a quitter? I sure as heck don't! Go with the EA82T! Oh I'm as bored as a rock too. I could ramble all day about the EA82T I'm building but I've also had a few beers too:drunk:

I picked up an '86 GL-10 turbosedan a few years ago and the CV boots were thrashed. Luckily, someone had got the ingenious idea to use some duct tape on them.. Held pretty good since I kinda beat that car like a dead horse...

There've been a few people who have done that. If you search around for it, you'll come across someone doing it.

my sister's Honda Del Sol does it and when I gave her a ride home from work the other day, I told her she had to do that and for some reason, she thought the Honda was special cause it was the only car she's had to do it on....

but gen 1 Brats are teh sExY!!!!! Trust me, I got one and she was awesome before I tore into her. Now she's getting completely restored with a few minor mods done;)

nope no difference whatsoever that I have been able to determine.

The differences in a solid lifter engine vs. a hydro lifter engine for you Jerry... cams are different like stated the lifters (duh! *smacks forehead*) pushrods If you can get those items from a hydro lifter engine, you can swap them into a solid lifter block. If you want a good solid lifter block, I got a couple, one has about 100k miles on it;)