Caboobaroo

Well I've just about finished the deal with moosens with my '79 4wd wagon. Many of you know, this car is the one that got me hardcore into modifying Subarus. I was one of the first, if not THE first to completely put a EA81 front suspension/brakes into it. I made custom control arms that a few have seen in pics if not in person. This was my second Subaru I had, which I got when I traded my first one straight across for it. Rust free but had an engine issue which first thought was a bent pushrod but later turned out to be a thrust bearing knock. Got a bunch of parts from General Disorder waaaaay back in the day of ezboard so it has one minor dent in the driver front door now. Mudrat79 will be picking it up shortly from my parent's house in Oregon. Sad to see her go.... so much time and work into her but its time to downsize the fleet a bit more. Glad to see her going to a good home though. I know Paul will give her the lovin I've been denying since I got my Brat. Goodbye my love but its time for us to part....

I paid $25 bucks for a complete one from a junkyard in Denver. Then I modified it to work with my turbo.

so they make a high performance clutch for a Justy, what about an EA82 turbo? I got a stage 2 in my RX which is still brand new since I've never driven it with it in there.....

but with money and time, it can be made into a high performance car! But right now, I'm sitting at $5,000 into my '89 RX turbo with mods out the wazoo and its still not on the road. Just ran outta time right now. If you put a Weber on it like GD said, it will also increase your throttle response too. You can get cams reground from Delta Cams IIRC but I don't know fi they do NA cams. Those will run about $120 plus your cores but like I said, I know they do turbo cams but I'm unsure about carbed cams.

my turbo was pretty shot in my '89 RX so I upgraded to a WRX TD04 turbo. Slight modifying is needed to fit it in but I would also recommend putting in a top mount intercooler from a WRX as well. As for a dual range, you can get a turbo tranny thats a dual range in either a Full Time 4wd (basically AWD) or a part time 4wd so you have 4 hi and 4 lo but also have 2 hi as well. I actually have both. The part time came in the '85 '86 RXs and some of the GL-10 sedans. My part time came from an '85 GL-10 turbosedan. I also have the full time in my RX as well. Only the RXs and some of the 3-door turbo coupes came with the dual range full time tranny. The other option is to swap in a naturally aspirated dual range 5 speed but you'd also have to swap the rear diff as well since it has a different ratio. The turbo's came with 3.70 diffs whereas the NA trannys and rear ends are 3.90 diffs. The main difference between the turbo tranny and the NA tranny is the fact that they have the different diff ratios but also the turbo tranny has a 25 spline DOJ where the NA tranny has a 23 spline. I've heard that a turbo car with the NA tranny and rear end make it really spunky....

IIRC, the EA81T injectors are the same as EA82T injectors.

I 've been wanting to put a set of those on my RX since I plan on using it for shows....

what kind of a FPR are you using and where did you get it from? Maybe I can do a nice injector upgrade in my RX with an AFPR as well. Crank up the boost a bit and see what she can do!

sounds like an alternator problem. If I were you, I'd pull it out and take it to an autoparts store that will test it for you. They have a tendincy to fail and cause weird symptoms.

take it to Richie. He does fabulous work. My $.02

Well first off, that engine thats in there is STOCK. All EA82 cars that were turbo had an MPFI turbo'd engine in them. If you fix it, you might be able to get $500 outta it but that's depending on who's in the market for one. Also, you'll have a lot of headaches if you end up swapping that engine into your '88.

yes, with the turbo engines, they creat much more heat then NA engines do. I would get that fan fixed ASAP cause if it overheats too much, then you'll crack a head or blow a headgasket. Much more expensive and time consuming to fix. There a quite a few board members in your area. Hopefully they can pipe in and possibly help you out a bit.

dude, I just posted it over on awdpirates for you. Granted, there's a lot of people in the Colorado area but they might have some insite on how to get it back.

where is the VSS on an EA82 car anyways? Not to hijack a thread but I need to know so I can hook up my turbo timer.

There a small wire connected to the starter toward the back of it which comes from the ignition to engage the starter. You might want to see if you knocked that off. Thats what it sounds like anyways.

ok I'll get it home today and pull the plugs and see what it does. I hope its just hydrolocked and not a bad engine cause I don't feel like swapping this engine again. I did it at the beginning of January.

well if you haven't seen my previous post about it eating coolant in the past couple days, its there. Drove the bugger to work today but was a little sluggish because its been eating coolant and burning it out the exhaust. Parked it and went into work. Came out for lunch to see if I could possibly figure out where it might be getting coolant from like the baseplate gasket on the carb or an intake gasket, went to turn it over and it goes "knock knock knock CLUNK!". So I tried it again a couple hors later and still it has this horrific knocking sound. Kinda sounds like it might be a starter which I hope it is but how could it get a rod knock from sitting in a parking lot? I know its a little low on oil cause it has a bit of an oilpan gasket leak but it made no noise on my 3 miles drive to work this morning. Also, its been around 10* the past few days if that helps any. I made sure to chekc the coolant level before I left for work this morning since it was pretty low. If anything, I got another engine I can swap into it.... I got a spare starter I can try tomorrow if anything.

I'm going to have to agree with this one. Since it has the air suction on it and silencer, it appears to be the original engine for the car. The original engine in my '78 Brat looked identical.

if you drop that motor in there, you won't even remember the one you pulled out. This is a great upgrade to gen 1 Brats to give them more power. I know that if I ever decide to get another 1600 for my gen 1, it'll have to be the higher compression engine, hands down since I got so used to the power.

well I went to pick up one of my roomates a couple hours after I got off work and it was smoking even worse then my trip home from work. I was thinking that its probably more likely an intake gasket since I used some cheap ones from Advance when I swapped intakes onto this current engine. Plus, from the amount its smoking, it would have blown a headgasket pretty good and since it doesn't seem to be gurgling into the radiator, leads me to believe that its probably an intake gasket as well. That and I smelled the inside of the radiator and it actually smells more like unburnt fuel.

you could possibly have a short inside the coils in the starter causing it not to have enough power to turn the car over. I would check the connections on the starter, try it, and if that doesn't work, I'd go get that $5 starter for it and throw that in there.

bumpity bump!

Those green connectors are the diagnostic connectors that when connected, they display the codes the ECM contains. Here's a sit that might help decypher what codes you might have. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918

well I'll have to take a look at the cherry Brat to see what it looks like. You can use the square tubing as a spacer and put longer bolts in which I don't see it being a problem unless it rubs on the tire. Guess it all depends on how long the tubing is. Maybe those coilovers will end up in the cherry Brat;)

Bill, lifted wagons are the best! To help answer your question about the tubing, it depends on how the bracket is going to be made. I know in BYB lifts, that bracket is made from flat stock and welded in an upside down "U" and has two holes in the base of the "U" that bolt into the stock location on the body and it has two more holes at the top tips of the "U" for the new shock to bolt into. It also has a curve to the bracket that matches the curve on the body inside the fender well area. Lets get together next week on Wednseday and we can discuss it more if you'd like.