Caboobaroo

first off, I'd crawl under there and shake the crap outta the tailshaft of the tranny while watching the mounts. They probably need to be replaced since well they all have a tendency of breaking apart as you would know. Second, I would look into modifying the linkage hole in the trans tunnel to acommidate for the extra throw of the shifter, which would also lead to the popping outta gear. Or, swap a 5-speed into it and call it good:brow:

still won't be for a couple more months since I have a lot of minor things to attend to on it. As it is, I might be living down there in a couple months so it might be as easy as pimpin over to my house!

I do know of a baord member on here that has done the EJ22 conversion into a bug. His board name is "nug". Just do a quick search and you might be able to come up with something or at least send him a PM and ask him what he had to do. He said it was quick so it makes me curious to almost do this myself:brow:

best bet, once you get it back together, drive it for about 100 miles and change the oil. Do it once or twice and you should be fine. I had an '83 hatchback that had blown 2 freezeplugs in the head and water sat in the crankcase for 8 years! Fixed it all up and she ran fine besides the Carter-Weber.

She did it for me. She fired up. After a year and 2 months for the build, she came to life today. She ran for about 15 seconds but she ran, breathed her first breath. I still have a lot to do like button the intercooler up, some vacuum lines, tuning, plus make sure my 5-lug is good and finish installing my XT6 swaybars. I spend about an hour on her today because she's sitting outside and its snowing now. Once she's on the road, I'm going to shoot for WJM's "very expensive, very powerful" EA82T. I might already have a set of headstuds that are stronger then ARP's and for about 1/3rd the price. I love being friends with machinests.

ehhh I would but I'm not a big fan of Oregon anymore. Especially after seeing Colorado:brow:

Well I'm looking at catbacks right now. zip is 82070. Also, do you offer others as well?

WOW, there's a lot of board members in that area that weren't there a couple years ago. Its surprising how many people have come up in that area onto the board.

you use the XT6 control arms but whenever doing this conversion, I highly recommend replacing the balljoints since you will be getting the parts for such a conversion usually from a junkyard. The balljoints go with what knuckle you are using. So Impreza balljoints with Impreza knuckles and same with XT6.

Look in the USRM under suspension. I have a whole write-up in there about it plus a parts list from SubaruTex.

Wow, looking great. Glad things worked out for you. As far as the clunking, it sounds like you may need some balljoints which are always a good thing to replace when doing this conversion. I myself put new ones into my RX when I installed my 5-lug. Also, you might want to check the CVs and the DOJs to make sure they are still in ok shape. If you get a lot of side to side movement in the joint rather then the in and out movement, you're gonna need new axles or rebuild the ones you have. Congrats!

sounds like we're both havin some good luck Brian. My RX will be firing up within the next couple weeks if everything goes as planned. Good luck!

omg thats teh Sexy!

well the way the under chassis is made is totally different 2wd vs. 4wd. I compared a '78 2wd wagon to my '79 4wd wagon and it was waaaay different. Also the way the rear suspension is mounted is different as well. General Disorder and I compared the two.

Unfortunatly, its next to impossible to convert a gen 1 Subaru from 2wd to 4wd. I have already looked into it and the whole underside of the chassis is different in the rear.

ok slow down there turbo. As far as splitting the case and putting the lower dual range in it, it has been said thats it possible and not possible. Do a search, you'll come up with an answer real quick. The bolt patterns are the same, you can bolt it directly up into the same spot as a regular manual transmission in an EA82. External linkage is the exact same from FT d/r to PT d/r. All EA82 axles are the same length, its the DOJ housing which is different IE from turbo (25 spline) to non turbo (23 spline). Although the XT6 transmissions are a 25 spline.

its not March yet now is it;) It might still happen unless by some miracle it runs and drives with no problem... should I start laughing now?

well they MADE FT trannys that were nonturbo BUT they weren't dual range. It should have a 25 spline DOJ instead of the 23 spline. The XT6s I know came with that tranny along with some XTs and some nonturbo GL-10 wagons. Sounds like a swap job to me if you say the tag on the rear diff reads 3.90 since NO turbos ever came with a 3.90 gearing.

stock EA82T with a modded uppipe, TD04, Megan Racing bellmouth downpipe, spyder intake, GReddy Profec II B-spec EBC, matching turbotimer, and AEM cold air intake. Luckily, my EBC isn't hooked up so no cranking up the boost yet. New engine will have a rebuilt carbed bottom end, gen 3 turbo heads with oversized valves, Delta 260 street cams, TWE header, blah blah blah... you get the idea;)

well maybe I'll be lucky and it'll seem like it has so much power that I won't get into it very much. I'm used to driving a '84 Brat with an EA81 in it

I finally decided to quit being lazy and do some work on it. The lower portion of the spyder intake has been on for awhile but I've been trying to deal with the upper since it was having some fitment issues with the TD04. So I was looking at some engine pics of SubaruTex's RX and noticed that he had reclocked his throttle body 90* which gave him better fitment of not just the intake but also with the intercooler as well. Now its time to finish the vacuum lines, get the one piece of piping I need for the intercooler, get the intercooler put in and see what happens. Oh and also fix the little fuel leak at my tank since I don't think one of my connections is tight enough. Give me about a week and I might have blown it up already knowing my luck with the car but its all about learning!

He's right. Is a new belt worth more to you by doing it right the first time or later on when the reused one breaks and it becomes 10x's more expensive to fix ie. a new engine.

yes, even with lots of air, the most you'd do is blow out a sidewall, or a bead, or blow the valvestem out. Too much pressure plus a tire thats not supposed to take that much plus the addition of the weight which is going to be over the load capacity of the tire equals lots of BOOOOOM!!!!

hey man, clean out your PM box, Its DA FULL!!! It's regarding the y-pipe and DHL;)

Where the heck have you been?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!