Caboobaroo

Umm on a budget.....Pull coils, crank down torsion bars....... Voila, lowered Soob:D

Well I have done some research on the turbos that came in the CHevy SPrints, Pontiac Firefly, Daihatsu Charade, Opel Kadett, and the Opel Corsa. Its the IHI RHB32. I was wondering if anyone might know the easiest way to find two for cheap. I did find two on ebay but the guys was like 200 bucsk for both!?!?! Would it be cheaper to find someone on ebay that has a set or should I talk to the Aussie guys and see if they can get me a set?

Mud?? Why does everyone think you need mud on a lowered 4wd Subaru???? Look at my Brat. Its 4wd (with a blown front axle) and it sits on the bumpstops but it does some of the knarliest burnouts I've seen from a small import that was 50 bucks. So Hey, its all in what the person with the car likes. I've had people ask me why I lowered the Brat. Cause I felt like it instead of being like everyone else and lift it, wheel it, beat her up...and besides, its his daily driver too:D

if neither the oil or the antifreeze has the other in it, yo might have a cracked head which means you can drive around for awhile like that:D I did it in an 86 turbosedan and it lasted a few months before the head cracked wide open and like a river, flooded into the exhaust:-\

Looks like the front of my Brat but the front of mine is about 4 inches lower and makes some really nice posi marks from the EA82 steels I have on it... oh yeah and BTW, in RWD, it will drift pretty well. I love gettin the rear squirrly in front of people. I get the "HUH?????" look from a bunch of the ricers that at first laugh at my bouncing poop of a Brat. I then do the burnout show for them and they start respecting the ole Brat:D

That should be the one, I don't know if it is deep enough. If you can find one that is 1/4" drive, it will work better as it's small enough to get down inside the axle stub. I used an 8 point 8mm 1/4" drive deep well craftsman socket last time I had to pull stubs, you just have to be careful not to round it off!

there is the fuel filter by the pump under the hood which I have replaced. Ed is talking about a seperator. The seperator came in the EA81, not previous with the EA71 in the gen 1s. I also noticed that when I turn the idle up, the hesitation goes away but when I turn it back down, it come back.....Now I have had this carb torn apart twice so far and I've blown out the jets and all of the little passages inside the carb really well

cool thansk guys. I don't think its the idle misxture screw cause I did exactly what the FSM told me to do. Screw it in until she runs really rough, then back it out 2 1/2 turns. I can try it again and I can check the tank too. Thanks again guys:D EDIT: Ed, there is only the fuel filter which I have replaced. There is no seperator, its just a hose that comes into the engine compartment, goes through the filter, through the pump and into the carb:D

dual range is the term for 4wd. There are two ranges of 4wd. There is 4-high (1:1 ratio) and 4-low which is anywhere from 6:1 for rock crawlers to like 1.5:1.

it could be a few things....Check your axle joints to see if they have grenaded. If you just have a bad boot, it usually isn't a bad thing unless you have half your axle in your hand. Another thing is it could be the wheel bearing. It could have siezed up or something along those lines. Or it could be a brake issue. You might have sucked a brake pad up and it got lodged to the point where it will not move. Just a few things to check:D

I might be interested in doing a RHD swap into my '79 4wd wagon. PM me about it, maybe we can work out some details and some pics:D

yeah its been in the meet-n-greet forum.

Ooo Jason, save me the power mirrors. My Brat could realy use them:D

well Andrew and I noticed something yesterday. The connector for the MAF sensor was loose so we reconnected it. It seemed to run a little better until I took it out for the test drive. The surging problem was still there and it died on me once. This surging problem is so bad, my neck hurts from it. So today our buddy Chris looked at it and he noticed the disty cap was really loose so we tightened it but STILL the surging problem was there. I could relate to what you're saying WJM but it didn't sit that long in a non-running condition and it did it gradually not all at once. Also it NEVER had this type of problem with the old motor seeing I was the one driving it when the old motor cracked the head wide open and a friggin river went right into the exhaust. I believe it only sat for like 4 months before Andrew got this motor in it.... Also today after we got the disty cap tightened, I took it around the block and I had it floored the whole time in first gear and I was only doing 12mph because it would go a bit, surge really bad for a small time then it would do it again.

That mgiht be it seeing this car sat for about 10 years beore it was running again. It seemed to do it worse when I put 2 bucks of Arco gas into it so I could make it a few miles. I since then have put Chevron into it but it still does it:-\ If you stand on it with no load, you can hear it bog down and then rev high

Well my Brat has started to act up again so I need some help. I have torn down and gone through the carb twice now and replaced the fuel filter. I have also checked my fuel pump which is fine but it still has a bad hesitation problem. Most of the time, it will start up and idle fine after it has warmed up but the instant you give it ANY gas, it wants to die right away until you either back out of the gas completely or you floor it. It will hesitate realy bad until about 4k then it'll be fine. I have new plug wires, cap, rotor, and plugs. I might need to replace a couple vacuum lines but it doesn't have any vacuum leaks from what I can tell. Anyone have any ideas??

well it could be a couple things. The driver side axle could have popped and caught on a suspension piece making it so it will not roll, move, whatever, even when pushed. The other thing I would check is the clutch. It could have worn down to the point where it will not move under its own power. Seeing you say it will not move at all is leading me to believe that you blew an axle and it caught on something underneath thus making it impossible to move

well I had a closer look underneath my Brat today and its not looking to good. Its leaking oil from in between the bellhousing and the block, the valve covers and a couple small spots. Good news is I have the motor out of my wagon that has a fresh reseal done and some nice paint. Now I just have to spend the day getting it all bolted into the Brat along with the tranny from the wagon as well since the tranny in the Brat grinds in first. What loads of fun....:-\

I would go to a part store. I found that I could get a full rebuild kit for under 30 bucks.

Oh boy thats gonna be a fun drive in my Brat....w00t!!!:-\ All I can say is Bouncy bouncy bouncy.....

Well garner, you can keep the suspension but you might want to remove the bumpstops. Depending on how low you go, you can remove the bumpstops in the rear to give it more travel. The only down side to removing the bumpstops is when you would bottom out, it'll smack metal on metal...not a great sound if you ask me.....

Nope, just pull the crank pulley off, pry it out with a screwdriver but be careful not to damage the block, lube up the seal, then pound a new one in using a socket thats the same size diameter as the outer portion of the seal.

When I got my wagon, it leaked from the disty and the crank main seal was SHOT so it sprayed oil all over the engine bay. I had also noticed that it was leaking form the oil pump and I found out later when I dismantled it, the oil pump had some nasty score marks inside the housing so on went a new oil pump (well used but it good shape). As for spending 100 bucks on an engine kit, check ebay. I got mine off of ebay for $20.95 shipped. Also I've gotten a full carb kit from Knects for like 25 bucks and it includes everything so there ya go on that one. The disty has an O-ring around it to prevent the oil from coming up. Now cleaning the carb, I soaked it in Chem-tool overnight and then sprayed it down with a can of carb cleaner. Worked pretty well if ya ask me:D Now my Brat runs like a champ and talk about the fatty posi burnies in RWD.....

Not exactly sure but you could find a spring that has a higher spring rate but is shorter than stock. It might take some searching but in the end, your car would handle better than cut stock coils. Really the only way to lower a Subaru is either use other stock springs like the 2wd XT or in Andrew's case, 2wd XT6 springs, or to cut them. If you have a big nasty swaybar in the rear, cutting the rear coils is fine and it will handle a lot better that it does stock. Or you could do it like my Brat and pull the coils out completley and crank the torsion bars down so it all sits on bumpstops like this.... http://usmb.net/gallery/album225/AUT_3284 Mwahahahahaha!!!! Granted the ride is a little bumpy, I've gotten used to it fairly easily. It also handles like its on rail through corners!!!

cool way to go!!! If ya need help, lemme know. I usually check the board like a gazillion times a day and since I've done a few of these carbs, I've got the hang of it