Rust

Here is the coupe, the hatchback is great for frying eggs in the back, maybee the vents are for cooling the back area under the glass??

WTF are these vents for? Brake cooler? Cabin pressure adjuster for high altitutude flying???

http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/2013/08/07/a-journey-to-subaru-of-americas-history-collection/ put on a bib to keep the drool off your shirt before viewing

They also came with plastic covers with the subaru logo. I have a set but missing one of the covers.

Wonder if it blows purple smoke,

i made my own punch by cutting off the head of a screwdriver that was a little smaller than the diameter of the roll pin. soak it with PB blaster, coca-cola, or whatever you have on hand, and whack away. when in doubt use a bigger hammer.

My 86 brat had problems, stuttering/hiccups. I swapped fuel pumps, new fuel filters, ect. still ran like crap. then I swapped coils and it fixed the problem.

Elvis has left the building!

No Paul, you should hunt down the ellusive rear tent factory option for gen 1 subaru along with a first gen subaru bumper winch and sell them to this CT resident. I'll try to get some new picks of the car up soon.

I have a 4 door sedan 1986 ea82 spfi w/ 3spd AT. The rear cross member tube is about to snap in half from rust. I am thinking about converting the car to pushbutton 4wd. I have all the parts from a wagon. I am assuming everything should be a direct bolt up, or is it more complicated than that? Any one done this conversion to a sedan?

Thats a great pic, best I have seen on here in a while.

I have a few spare radiators to try out. I found an old bottle of prestone radiator flush that I will try first, then I will try swapping radiators, then lastly I will do a water pump swap. It probably is the water pump but I want to rule out the easy fix stuff first.

This is a hobby car not a daily driver, I went through about 5 different carbs before settling with this one, all the other carbs I couldn't get it to idle right or other problems. The car is not diesleing after shut off, just one big Ka-Pow, I will check all the fuel lines again but I have not noticed any leaks. I've stopped driving it due to the raging headaches I get from the fumes, even with all the windows down. I do have 2 other ea81 carbs that I have not tried yet, hopefuly I will get some free time to tinker with this car some more. If I tried running the car with the gas cap cracked, or off completely would that stop any fumes getting into the cabin?

I probably need to rebuild it, I'll try messing with the adjustments in the meantime. Maybee my generic electric pump is pumping too much and the carb can't keep up with it.

My 79 EA71 wagon really stinks(gas fumes) I don't have the funds for a webber upgrade. I am running a generic electric fuel pump and have gone through my box of hitachi's to find one that idle's and accelerates good enough. I have one that works, but its running way too rich. It backfires when you shut the engine off, and the gas fumes insight the car are getting unbarable. Any shade tree mechanic tips to reduce the fumes/richness?

Well here is an update. I flushed the radiator with water and put in a brand new thermostat. It drops to the 1/4 mark much faster once I get off the highway. It is still spiking to the 3/4 mark on the highway. Ive notived it hovers slightly under the 1/2 way mark on downngrades....and spikes up past the 1/2 way mark on upgrades. It is cooling better in city/town traffic 30-45mph but still crappy at highway speeds 65-75mph. Iv'e had to turn the heater on several times when it spikes up to past the 3/4 mark to bring it back down to the 1/2 way mark. the secondary electric fan is working good and nothing is blocking the radiator. Going to try some chemical flushes, any body recommend any particular radiator flush brands?

Just wrap your interior with tinfoil....problem solved!

I have 4 EA82 cars that see regular use. I consider running at the 1/4 mark avarage, whenever thet run at the 1/2 way mark or above it is not to long before they start overheating. I have noticed some buildup of grey clay-like stuff/crap on the radiator cap but no white slimey crap. The engine does burn a ton of oil so some clogage may me going on. I'll give the system a flush this weekend, and go through my box o' spare thermostats to find one that opens the best and give it a shot. How bad would it be just to run without a thermostat just for the summer, and put in a new one in the fall/winter?

Been noticing my loyale is running hotter on the highway, and cooler on secondary roads. My electric fan is comming on as it should, and my fluid levels are good. Before I start swapping out thermostats could some thing else be the cause? I am a little stumped, because you would think at the the higher speeds and increased air flow it would run cooler on the highway???? It is very strange having the temp meter read between 1/2 and 3/4, and then after a 50 minute commute get off the highway and have it drop down to the 1/4 mark (where it should be) in stop and go city traffic. Seems to defy the normal way a car overheats. Any insight or ideas welcome.

I believe that is part of the return line to the tank, maybe some sort of evaporator thing. The fuel filter should be before your pump in the engine bay. I have removed all rusty lines (and things that look like that in your pic) and just run straight rubber hoses for return lines and had no problems.

For this set up I used a set of Van Racks, the core from a sofa frame, and actually bought a basket from pep-boys. The basket lasted about 3 yrs before rusting away. I have since thrown it out, and have built another basket from a futon frame and 1x1 wood.

generic rack bars, but I made the basket from an old bed frame and a swingset. The 2x4s ar for canoe hauling