XT6 Magic

It would seem that the type of sealer used on the case halves could affect the main bearing clearance.

Maybe I will try and run it then. It's just going to be a daily driver with a Delta Cam and DeMoss heads. I really don't have anything but gaskets and time to loose. I have a new set of STD pistons (the skirts on the old ones were collapsed about .003"). It's got to be better than what I am running now @ 1+ quart per 100 miles:eek: The reason that we took .003" off of the desk was a small imperfection at the liner in one spot. It looks like it was the cause of the gasket failure but it cleaned right up. What type of sealer should I use on the case? I have read 3 Bond, Ultra Grey 599, and Permatex Aviation (which flavor)? Thanks, -Jeff

Ya, that's the one. We took about .003 off the deck so it would hold a new gasket for more than a week, but the pitting in the one cylinder concerns me a little. The heads looked ok though. I'll probably either shop P-A-P for a better block or scrap the whole project and start looking for an EJ. That's probably what I should have done to start with:rolleyes: BTW how much oil did it go through? Did it smoke a lot?

That's what I was thinking. It's not worth the chance for all the work involved. I have a good crank/rods and cam core though at least.

I pulled this EA81 down for a re-ring and it looks like one of the cylinders had a head gasket leak for a while. The machinist I work with recommends I find another block. What do you think, how much ring leakage will this cause? The pitting in the photo won't hone out. Should just save the internal parts and scrap this block? [Click for larger photo] Thanks, -Jeff

The oil rings may be worn or frozen in the piston ring grooves. A leakdown test might yield some more information.

I just finished the EA81 SPFI PS conversion using EA81T parts and it works great. You need the EA81T crank pulley, water pump, PS pump and hoses (either EA81 or EA82 pump bracket will work). I also used an EA82 Non AC alternator bracket from an 86 GL with a carb. The EA82 PS pump is longer and will not work. My EA81 block had the bosses that needed to be drilled and tapped for the brackets. Some early EA81's do not. Thank You Aarons for the parts!!!

Also, if you hook everything up and ground it properly you should be able to mock it all up on the bench. When I did my EA81 SPFI harness I had spark, injector pulse, fuel pump power, and the ability to set trouble codes ect all running on the bench before installing anything in the car.

Agreed. If it had a vacuum leak unplugging the valve would not lower the idle speed, correct?

Does the old trick of leaving the pressure plate bolts loose and tightening them afterword through the starter hole apply here? I haven't tried it with an EJ swap but it works on the older ones especially if you are by yourself. Good Luck.

Check for bad diodes in the alternator.

You might want to do the O-Rings on the retainers at the same time. I think they are only a couple dollars each for Subaru ones.

It's well worth the time once the install is done to spend a little extra time with the SPFI unit. Most of these will already have 200k on them before you get ahold of them. Verify that the throttle stop is properly adjusted and that the idle switch/TPS is also adjusted properly. Check for any dead spots in the sweep of the TPS especially just off idle. Clean any varnish or build up in the throttle bore and around the plate. It's also a good idea to take the IAC apart and clean it's plunger and seat. Lastly make sure to replace the horseshoe (toilet seat) o-ring at the base of the SPFI unit. Any other details? -Jeff

The hybrid EA81 (25 spline inner) axles I have been working on are finally done. I just have to find boot kits. The recipe turned out to be 93 Legacy inner DOJ's with the Rockford 184-068A conversion races and EA81 front axles. Make sure you get the right diameter EA81 shafts or they won't fit the conversion races.

OK, I have one for you now. If this looks correct send me a PM and I'll get it to you.

They are plentiful in the Seattle area. I'll be happy to pick one up and mail it to you. Give me a couple days to get back out to the yard though. -Jeff

Finally a Brat that won't rust out:grin:

That would be great. The bumpers on my wagon are the same way.

It's starting to clean up nicely. The original color was #74 black. I'm not crazy about the green but it will have to do for a while. Thanks for the good deal on the wheels and tires Tex!

Every time I have an Axle/Hub out on my EA81 wagon I grease the bearings with a needle adapter and clean up the excess before reassembly. The original bearings have well over 200k on them and they are still good. Might not work for everyone, but... This technique also seems to work well for belt idlers as long as you are careful not to damage the seal on the bearing.

GD's SPFI swap page is second to none! Every detail is very well covered. I don't know what the difference in HP is but you probably won't ever go back to carb again if you do it:grin: It's well worth the trouble if you ask me. There is a definite increase in power.

The "small round thing" riveted to the coil bracket can cause no spark if it fails. I assumed it was a power transistor but I could be mistaken. I had one fail on recently on my wagon. Good Luck, hope you get it running soon.

Does this system use the power transistor mounted on the ignition coil? Have you tried replacing that as well if it does?

I just went through this for the third time. Fantastic work! It really makes me want to learn how to weld. I need to look in to getting the equipment so I can start practicing on some small stuff. Thanks for sharing the text and photos.

In Washington State 25 years and older also means no more Emission Tests! Ironically enough I just completed the SPFI conversion on my 83 GL Wagon and now that it's exempt it runs cleaner than it ever did before:rolleyes: