XT6 Magic

I'm sure you are right. I was going by the pictures as the parts are at work. Anyway the conversion races don't look like they will work. Does anyone know of a combination that does work for putting together an EA81 Axle with a 25 spline DOJ? Thanks, -Jeff

The spline count on the center of the races? It looks like the EA81 is 22 the Rockford conversion race is also 22 but for a slightly larger shaft diameter, and the EA82T is 25 spline. The splines on the outside of the DOJ cups are the standard EA81 (23) and EA82T (25) Thanks, -Jeff

Here are some pictures of the Subaru conversion races (Rockford part number 184-068A) that cobcob helped me find. They don't seem to be for the purpose I had intended. I was hoping to put the EA82T DOJ on the EA81 shaft. Does anyone know what these are for? They do fit the EA81 DOJ but the splines don't match either shaft:confused: Conversion Race DOJ Top View DOJ Side View Thanks -Jeff

Turn the key on and try jumping the small terminal of the starter to the battery cable positive with a screwdriver or something. Make SURE it isn't in gear first if it's a manual trans or it might start and drive away without you! On my 83 GL the wire from the ignition switch to the starter failed somewhere in the harness and I had to run a new one. The symptoms were similar to yours (click only on a cold morning). Also check the 10 gauge short wire from the positive battery cable to the fusible link box on the fender well. There can be a dirty or corroded connection at either end of the short power wire causing the same symptoms. Lastly the starter motor/solonoid contains 2 "L" shaped contacts that wear out from arcing over time. Improved larger contact area copper replacements are available to cure the click no start conditions caused by the old worn out ones. These are only a couple of dollars and are very easy to install yourself. Look for the wire connections on the starter motor under the small rubber boots. The contacts are inside the end cap. These tips are all assuming a good fully charged battery with clean cable connections is installed. Good Luck, -Jeff

Measure the distance (depth) of the step between the surface of the flywheel that the clutch mounts to and the surface that the disc contacts. The XT6 will be about .806" the EA82 might be the same as the EA81 or .906" If the EA82 flywheel measures the same as the XT6 pressure plate or about .806 then the XT6 plate will work. Another way to get an idea if it will work is to lay the disc in the flywheel that you are going to use and put the pressure plate on top without any bolts. The gap between the pressure plate and the flywheel should be about an 1/8 inch or so if it's the right combo. If there isn't any gap at all and the pressure plate sits all the way down the clutch won't hold at all. If the gap is closer to 1/4 inch then the clutch won't ever release when you step on the pedal. In other words the stepping of the pressure plate must match the flywheel. The thickness of all the discs will be about the same. The splines on the disc just have to match the input shaft on the trans. I have all three flywheels at work (EA81/EA82/ER27) and I can measure them Tuesday when I go back if you don't have a definite answer before then. Hope this makes sense. -Jeff

According to the parts manuals the XT6 and EA82 pressure plates are different. They may look the same but you should measure the stepping distance. It will be aprox. 0.806" on the XT6 flywheel/pressure plate. The larger 8.78" pressure plate for the EA81 is 0.906" stepping. The EA82 may be the same but I can't confirm that until Tuesday as the rest of my manuals are at work. The throwout and pilot bearings for EA82/XT6 look like the same part number. The clutch discs are also the same as long as both trans are 24 spline. Depending upon the pressure plate being used you may also want to watch the pressure plate to clutch hub spring clearance. The 6 spring center hub will offer a little more clearance than the 4 spring variety as the springs are smaller diameter. Good Luck, -Jeff

Nice job on the bracket! I have that (right side) PS setup too but I think I am going to try the EA81T parts first since I'm not much of a welder and don't know anyone locally who is. Isn't it difficult to weld cast iron parts like that? -Jeff

Thanks for the pictures! So it looks like you left the front cast iron bracket as is and rotated it so only two of the three mounting holes are used and just modified the rear bracket? Did you actually cut/weld the front cast bracket? It looks tight but it seems to work. I just received all of the PS/Alternator brackets, pump, lines, ect from an EA81T motor. I also have an EA82 pump and bracket. So far I can verify the EA81T and EA82 power steering brackets are the same dimensionally. The EA82 pump housing is longer and shaft larger (hubs will not interchange) than the EA81T pump. This combination also requires the EA81T crank pulley and water pump. It looks like it will work pretty well. Some mounting bosses on the EA81 block will need to be drilled and tapped. Clearance it going to be REAL tight around the distributor. I can take some pictures of all of this stuff before it goes on if anyone is interested. -Jeff

Input Bearing Replacement

So, there are different versions of the EA82 PS bracket too, wonderful:) The version I grabbed and tried was a cast aluminum part that looked different than the one pictured above. Perhaps I should take another look around the yard. My other thought is another small import pump with a remote reservoir. As far as I know it doesn't have to be a Subaru pump as long as the lines can be adapted. Keep the pics coming they do help. Thanks -Jeff

I would gladly buy an EA81T PS bracket from somebody if they had one and had time to pull it. Seems like they are impossible to find right now. Right after I build something I'll probably find 4 of them:D Markjw in Yelm WA has the EA81T stuff along with the crank pulley and alternator brackets I need but he doesn't have time to pull them. If anybody lives closer to Mark than I do and wants to make a few bucks by pulling that stuff and sending it to me let me know. Thanks, -Jeff

Please do send some pictures if you have them. I already have all the passenger side stuff to modify. I'll also look in to the EJ stuff. Thanks Again, -Jeff

The EA81 power steering pump and brackets that mount on the passenger side won't fit with the SPFI installed. The new location of the thermostat and manifold are solidly in the way. I also tried an EA82 style pump and bracket on a core EA81 with SPFI installed and the EA81 crank pulley is wrong and the holes on the EA82 PS bracket are all wrong. I am told the brackets and pulleys for an EA81T might work but I don't have access to them to even see what they look like. It looks like we are going to have to make something. Let me know if you make any progress. -Jeff

Well then I guess it's working just about perfectly! Thanks again for all of your help. -Jeff

Although Jerry's kit is "The" way to go and the one I used there is one other thing to watch for once you are done bashing:D Where the passenger side rear trans mount bolts to the tranny with the spacer that Jerry made the 12mm head of the lower bolt might contact the crossmember creating an annoying and hard to find body vibration on acceleration. I marked it and drilled a hole in my crossmember for clearance for the bolt head and it solved it. Good Luck it's a great swap! -Jeff

I can't imagine how much time GD spent working out the details and preparing the documents, but Many Thanks! I have had the conversion complete enough to drive the car for the last few days. It's an 83 GL 4DW Wagon that used to have the 2 barrel on it. I have owned the car for about 8 years now and I had no idea that an EA81 could make that much more power. I wonder what the actual difference in numbers is? It is a lot of work and the wiring looks pretty intimidating at first. GD's documents are well written though and you can't get lost if you stick to them. The first thing that I did was to take the PDF of the service manual wiring schematic down to FedEx Kinkos and have it printed on an 11x17 so I could read it:D I mocked the harness up on the bench complete with ECU, intake, distributor, coil, and everything first before installing any of it in the car just to locate any last minute wiring mistakes that I might have made and make sure it all works. Also the "Toilet Bowl" O-Ring seal under the throttle body should probably be replaced while you are at it. Mine showed evidence of leaking coolant down the side of the intake manifold. I would also look around and replace ALL of the coolant hoses that aren't already new. You are also going to want to replace all of the fuel hoses from the tank up to the front of the car. There are more small sections that I realized and mine were all old and petrified beyond belief. Although I am still working out the little issues I am very happy with it overall. There is a cold off-idle hesitation that I haven't found yet. There are also some Idle issues that I haven't tracked down. I thought at first I might have had the wrong ECU but as it turns out it's something else. When I put the clutch in and coast up to a stop the Idle is held up around 1300 rpms until I completely stop. At that point it slowly comes down to curb idle speed. Is this normal for these cars? I have never owned an SPFI Subaru before.

Just thinking here as I am getting ready for the swap soon. I already have the Large Brat 8 7/8 EA81 flywheel but no clutch parts yet. I also have a complete XT6 Flywheel pressure plate disc ect that all match. Could I just use the complete XT6 flywheel and clutch (with helicoil spacers and the EA81 flywheel bolts) and a Dual Range? Other option is just stick to the original plan and get the large EA81 Brat GL pressure plate and the EA82 24 spline disc from a Wagon. Opinions? Thanks, -Jeff

I am doing the same swap on my 83 GL Wagon from a 3AT to 5 speed. Last week I swapped out the pedal box, that wasn't too bad. Yesterday I put the Hill Holder in. What a pain! All of the steel lines under the hood were different and had to be swapped. I'm glad that part is over with. Next step will be the radius arm brackets. -Jeff

You can also poke a test hole in the pipe before the cat and measure the exhaust back pressure. I believe it should be no more than 2-3 psi normally and just weld the hole back up if you can't use an O2 sensor hole

It's normal. Heat and time fuse the old vacuum lines on to the tubes. Just tap them back in.

Mine is an 83 EA81 GL 4WD Auto, so it could be either. At that price if there is anything left of the body just buy along with Jerry's kit. Put head gaskets and a 5 speed D/R in it. It will probably run for another 100k before it even needs an EJ22:) -Jeff

Great! I can do the wiring myself and in fact I enjoy that type of project. When looking for a donor car are there better years to go for with the Ej22, or anything to avoid? Where did you get your adapter plate? Thanks Again, and I'd love to see the pics. -Jeff

Does the EJ22 fit between the 81-84 Brat/GL frame rails without any modifications? I bet it's a little tight up front too. Thanks, -Jeff

1983 GL Wagon 4WD/Auto/EA81 manufacturing date 05/83 engine serial number 285692

Thank You. -Jeff