bratman18
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Posts posted by bratman18
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I was wondering about that myself, as my manual-converted legacy does the same thing.
Has anybody had trouble with fuel starvation when the tank is almost empty on their converted cars? I remember when I had the SPFI conversion on my EA82, that was a problem at times because the carb fuel tank doesn't have as many baffles as the SPFI one.
yes when my brat gets below 1/4 tank it sputters when starting and stopping. it sucks!
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what is the going price on a original Brat Go Cart shell, the red one with the devil kid stickers.....?
its just the shell....
its in avg used shape.
i've never seen one! so if you get pics please post!!!!
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http://s29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/TomRhere/82%20BRAT/?action=view¤t=82BRATPSR.jpg
Bad angle, but you can see the gas cap. This is an old pic of my '82, and most pics I've seen of other '82's had simular gas caps.
Link to other pics, from baccaruda's sale ad.
yeah i actually bought one from barracuda. I think.,...i'm not sure...but i think this style was a brat only thing.
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Greg
In the pictures you sent looks like you set the rear diff at 3" , I suggest you place it at 4" , may help the axle issue
So your experience is that it is important to match the lift of the rest of the car, with the rear diff? I haven't wheeled mine yet but I only dropped it 2'' on a 4'' lift. I haven't had any problems on the road but like I said I haven't really tested it yet. Just wondering what your input is?! Thanks!
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Get the "kit" from subaru. After market the seals for the buckets (spark plugs) are inferior and will not last very long.
nipper
+1 yes get the subaru seals!!!
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Kinda like the Chrome mirrors meself... Didn't notice the cap missing though, to busy drooling over the rest of it I guess. I happen to have one of those if you want it, send me a PM if you do.
Also just noticed the gas cap, it be flat where most wheren't. Hmmm... Need to find a pic of one....
My brat has the same style gas cap
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TAmore accurate description of what is leaking is the gasket at the top of the spark plug tube. The valve cover gaskets are something else.
Yeah I know what I meant but couldn't think of the actual name...If you pull the valve covers to replace them you will end up replacing the valve covers as well and they all come in the same kit so I figured he would get what I was saying.
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Nice super clean Brat I'm a really jealous!!!
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Sounds to me like its either the throw out bearing or the bearing in the flywheel. Thats what mine did on my car....push clutch in and the noise stops. They are both a lot easier and cheaper to replace than the input shaft bearing. So hopefully for your sake I'm right! I'm sure someone else will have an opinion as well.
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I was thinking of changing the plugs on my '03 Impreza RS and managed to pull off one of the plug wires,(front driver side). I was surprised to find oil in and around the hole...right where outside end of the plug wire covers the hole...(the round part where is seals the valve cover).
I'm hoping it's normal and that the plug-wire rubber seal is designed to keep the oil inside the valve cover.
Could someone please confirm ?
Not really. It means that your valve cover gaskets are leaking. There are actually rubber seals that go around the spark plug openings in the valve cover and that means they are leaking. It can and will cause your car to skip and sputter at times so You should probably change your valve cover gaskets, plugs and might as well change wires too!
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Congrats on completing project!!! Have fun!
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the only real reason I cared was because of the smogging here. I took it to the local smogge shoppe and they didn't care, it passed with flying colors. So now I can quit digging through my chilton's manual trying to figure out why the light is on. :-p
Best part about it, I've got about $375 into the thing so far. Including the $300 purchase price.
sweet deal any future plans?
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Howdy all, I'm a new member from Reno.. Just bought a 93 Loyale, manual 5spd. Picked it up for $300 and put in a new wheel bearing. I've been a fan of soobies for years, my uncle actually got me hooked on them, he was the 1999 SCCA Rally co-driver champion.
I'm slowly restoring all the things that were missing, starting with a hubcap (silly I know). I'm also trying to track down a few issues including a check engine light that won't go away. I'll be posting about that later.. :-P
yeah good luck getting the check engine light to stay away! I don't think I've ever seen a Loyale with out the cel on! Welcome to the board!!! This place is great!!
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Please do send some pictures if you have them. I already have all the passenger side stuff to modify.
I'll also look in to the EJ stuff.
Thanks Again,
-Jeff
Yeah I looked and I don't have any real good pics so I will try to take some and post them. But just to let you know...For the rear mount I used the two bolt holes on the back of the motor on that side on the top...then I used the stock bolt holes in the front but I cut the front mount and welded it back together at an angle, so that the pump would line up with the belt path. The resevoir is actually at a little bit of an angle.
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Dave, If your car has traditional glycol antifreeze, then this is what you should replace it with. The newer "orange" antifreeze found in mopars, gm's etc. Will do Damage to older systems. Seems the materials used, especially on the radiators and heaters to attach the hose fittings gets eroded by a mild acid contained in the newer extended life antifreeze. I have seen 3 cars to date where the change was made, and shortly afterward there were leaks, at the most unlikey places.
My own advise to those I help service and keep running, if it's Glycol, stay with it and do the 2 yr/30K replacement. It's worth the preventative maintanence in the long run.
Hell the orange stuff even causes problems in the Gm's and dodges! That stuff is junk and I would never use it, I've seen way to many problems caused by it!
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Also check the gas filler tube, I have seen many of these leak and you can't really see the leak because there is a cover over it and they fill up with road dirt and when they leak you can really smell gas. So its worth checking it out
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Yeah it sucks mine has 130,xxx miles and leaking out of the passenger side head gasket. Other than that I love the car but I'm not lookin forward to replacing them!!! I just keep driving it and checking the coolant level a lot!!
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i used factory ps on my ea81 spfi conversion, i had to weld on brackets/modify existing. it stays on the same side and uses a longer belt. I will try to get some pics.
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As not to keep making new threads: Is anyone recently selling some 6 lug adapters? I have some nice 15x7 rims id like to use for autoxing
You can get them through SJR he does the adapters. sjrlift.com
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I can't imagine how much time GD spent working out the details and preparing the documents, but Many Thanks!
I have had the conversion complete enough to drive the car for the last few days. It's an 83 GL 4DW Wagon that used to have the 2 barrel on it. I have owned the car for about 8 years now and I had no idea that an EA81 could make that much more power. I wonder what the actual difference in numbers is?
It is a lot of work and the wiring looks pretty intimidating at first. GD's documents are well written though and you can't get lost if you stick to them. The first thing that I did was to take the PDF of the service manual wiring schematic down to FedEx Kinkos and have it printed on an 11x17 so I could read it:D I mocked the harness up on the bench complete with ECU, intake, distributor, coil, and everything first before installing any of it in the car just to locate any last minute wiring mistakes that I might have made and make sure it all works.
Also the "Toilet Bowl" O-Ring seal under the throttle body should probably be replaced while you are at it. Mine showed evidence of leaking coolant down the side of the intake manifold. I would also look around and replace ALL of the coolant hoses that aren't already new. You are also going to want to replace all of the fuel hoses from the tank up to the front of the car. There are more small sections that I realized and mine were all old and petrified beyond belief.
Although I am still working out the little issues I am very happy with it overall. There is a cold off-idle hesitation that I haven't found yet. There are also some Idle issues that I haven't tracked down. I thought at first I might have had the wrong ECU but as it turns out it's something else. When I put the clutch in and coast up to a stop the Idle is held up around 1300 rpms until I completely stop. At that point it slowly comes down to curb idle speed. Is this normal for these cars? I have never owned an SPFI Subaru before.
Yeah I have the same conversion that a friend of mine did and yeah its great!! My friend did a really clean job so it looks completely stock too! It always starts and it never stalls or runs bad. And it never stalls when at extreme angles, its great. But, I still wish I had more power...The EJ swap would be even better!
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ALTHOUGH.. I CAN'T imagine being bill for work that was never done by the shop!
Yeah never! I've seen this on more than one occasion! It used to piss me off when someone would bring there car to my friend and I to work on, and they would have just had work done at the dealer....except for the fact that there was no evidence of the work!
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Lots of chain auto parts will read ODB2 codes for free - but typically won't clear them.
That said - I doubt this is an ODB2 code so it may have to go to the dealer, someone with a decent scanner, etc. Not just a 50 dollar ODB2 scanner.
Dave
My mom had hers read at a chevy dealership and they read the codes cleared them and researched the code for her which was dealer specific all for free so thats why I said check around but its probably easier to just go to a subaru dealer.
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I'd take it to the Subie dealer, diagnosis will run ya ~60 bucks...
That code can also be set if the key is turned to the "start" position without the clutch fully depressed, the last one I saw that was like that, the customer had their floor mats stacked and it wasn't letting the clutch go all the way to the floor.
many garages will read your computer and tell you what the code is for free so check around!
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Id be in as long as i got a decal for my car.
Yeah I second this!!! it would be cool to have an actual decal that was designed as a group!!!
Brat Go Cart shells.
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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how much? I ain't got the slightest on how much one would go for but...aren't they fiberglass? if its in good shape its got to be worth a fair amount?!