bratman18
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Posts posted by bratman18
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For the new to me Sedan, i want to run 27" tires. Should i go with a 4" lift or 2" suspension lift and some fender trimming?
Anything i should know about lifting the sedan 4"?
What kind of lifts options are you considering??
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I personally have heard SEVERAL of the newer 2.5 motors knocking!! They are not built like the old ones! All the ones I heard were with low miles as well. Its not a good sound I would personally be pissed if I spent that much money on a car and it sounded like that! Hope for her sake it will live for a long time but from the experience I've had with all the 2.5 motors they just don't! I have one right now that is of course, leaking from the head gaskets! B ut mine isn't knocking. But good luck!:-\
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I've always just taken out the control arm bolt and that gives it enough?!?! Maybe i'm wrong it has been a while since i've changed one of those but i believe it works good luck
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Just did one this weekend on a GL Brat. Got the shaft from NAPA. Fit correctly and no clicking. I think it was $65. As long as you're rooting around you may as well change the ball joint. That was $18 at NAPA. Both parts had to be ordered and they were in the next day.
Same here just did one last week and replaced the ball joint as well! Napa is where I would go as well always had good luck with there parts!!
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Anybody have anymore ideas?!?!
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Im changing a cv axle on the 83 brat turbo and i had a few questions.
Where is the best place to purchase one?
Will i be able to do this job with a Chiltons manual?
Is there anything different about changing an axle on a turbo model than a gl?
Should be a be to get one at any auto parts store but it will probably be a remanufactured one. You should be able to use the manual its pretty straight forward. And no it should be the same as changing one on a GL the splines are different but as long as you get a turbo cv axle than you won't have to worry about that!!
Hope that helps -
yeah I have the only brat in my area. I rarely see another one or two but I think they are just passing through. Its really hard to find parts and they stopped making a lot of them too so its hard but I love my brat and can't wait till someday I can take a trip out west and get one thats rust free!!!
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Well, once I'm done with it all I'd be more than happy to answer any questions!
I've got a buddy out in NY that I've gotta go visit some time. Maybe we'll make a long weekend of it and come do a swap in your Brat!
That would be awesome!! I just really wish that I was closer to everybody else! There really aren't that many people out here that do this type of stuff so I'm kind of alone when it comes to any modifications and or improvements of this magnitude! Keep me updated on your progress and let me know of anything you run onto!
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Thats awesome I'd love to do the swap in my brat but i'd also love some help and I ain't got nobody nearby that can so maybe someday!!! Good luck with it
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yeah i know a guy that used a 2.5rs and put a two wheel drive(fwd) legacy tranny and kicked rump roast!! that would be the way to go if you could find a deal:headbang:
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Thanks for the info, so hatches never came with the 5 speed D/R 4wd, is installing one like most Subaru things, just bolt it in?
Not exactly but close, You will be able to find info in other forums on here but heres a short version! You can bolt the tranny onto the motor but have to combine the two tranny crossmember to make one, then you have to use a driveshaft out of your 5 spd dual range donor car and build a center bearing mount for the driveshaft. Then combine the shift linkages. There are a few more details but thats the most of it but its very much worth the time and effort!!!
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Yeah I tried again and if I pull back hard on the rubber mount it will slide back into its bolt but that little rubber block is stretched hard and I don't think it would last long like that so any ideas or comments would be awesome!!! thanks:confused:
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yeah,it's a 5-speed push button 4x4
Nice well that makes it a lot easier, another tip, make sure that the dual range that you use is out of a non-turbo car! The turbo cars came with a 3.7 and the non-turbo are 3.9 and have a lower low range gear! So good luck with your project!
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no plan yet. this is a very long term project, and while it will probably see the street before too long, it'll be awhile before it gets wheeled hard enough to need limiting straps.
Thats what I'm thinkin too, I'm just going to drive her and hope for the best! Good luck!
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Oh yeah and is it already a manual?! If it is auto then you will have a little more work, dash board and wiring harness so hopefully it is already a manual!
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nice ride! I wish I could find one that clean
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he's reclocked one notch, with the torsion bar mounted stock. which puts it a bit over 4" (of course, it's an ongoing project, we haven't gotten the front done yet, so that may settle once he starts driving it).
these shocks will be about perfect, as they bottom out just as the stock tire touches the stock fender. but there will be some definite limiting straps involved to keep from blowing up axles, as they offer a ton of droop travel!
here it is:
also, I just realized, that post was made before we actually installed them. they're now in. perfect fit. the bracket that came on the shocks could have been made to work, but a few minutes using a bench vise as a mini-press, we put the subaru upper bracket in the bushing on these shocks, which made them completely bolt-on.
also, the Rough Country ones we used came with steel sleeves for the lower mount, which made for a snug fit on the subaru bolt.
How do you plan on doing the limiting straps?? I have just installed a 3'' lift and have the torsion bars cranked and I installed the ranchos and found that they have a lot of droop! but the axles don't bind and they don't pull out so I will hope for the best
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are you running Jerry's kit with the 5 speed to use the stock linkageand 4wd shifter?
if not, you should be fine. I have a 5" lift (though less at the tranny crossmember, and I just have stock 5 speed D/R linkage, with zero problems.
(82 Brat)
the back part of the linkage with the rubber block I have bolted to the body still. I believe if the rubber part seperates, it makes it difficult/impossible to get into some of the gears... at least I read that on here, so I drilled a hole through both metal plates, and the rubber block, and have a nylocked bolt loosely tightened through them just to keep them together so I don't "lose" them on the trail.
I have more of a home made custom shift linkage made by a friend of mine. Yes it has the stock shifters inside and those attach to the 5 spd tranny. The rubber block would fit but it would be very stretched backwards to go back on so what could i do about that? Right now it feels like all the gears shift fine but that might be different when actually driving which is impossible because I have the motor pulled for headgaskets. But keep the hints or solutions coming!! Thanks
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What years of dual range tranny will fit?
any from 85 to 89 that are 5 spd with that body style! You will want to grab the interior trim and shift linkage and any other extras that will make it look and act factory
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alright well i got everything bolted up but from the bottom there is a little rubber mount attached to the back of the shifter linkage which bolts up to the body with a 12mm nut, I disconnected that and now it really doesn't reach to go back. the shifters seam to work ok so does this need to be bolted back up?!?!
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I took mine off when I got my brat and would definatley not go back! Its doesn't make enough of a difference on road. I can still cruise around a sharp corner at a high rate of speed which isn't all that high because its a brat but it leans a little more but no tire squeal and no problems!
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I'm in the process of lifting my brat 3 inches and was curious if I had to do anything to my shift linkage?!? I have a 5 spd D/R in it already if that makes a difference? I was told I didn't but the reason I'm asking is because when I dropped the front cross member and three bolt plate/tranny mount It seemed to move back a little and it really took some persuasion to get it foward again to bolt back up. So any body who has any tips in the lift process that would be great! Thanks!
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auto = 3.7
manual =3.9
definatly want to make sure those are the same,or at the very least dont engage 4x4 unless you are in mud.
my auto had 3.9
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I've had several bad new cv axles for my brat! They don't make quality axles for these thing or at least I haven't had any!
Opinions needed.
in Off Road
Posted
If your looking to fit 27s then I would go with the 4" but if you got a good idea for you 2" and it will work well then go for it!! What would you do for the homeade lift?