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bratman18

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Posts posted by bratman18

  1. I am installing the clutch on my 98 OBW 2.5. The manual reads "

    When installing the clutch cover on the flywheel, position

    the clutch cover so that there is a gap of 120° or more

    between “0” marks on the flywheel and clutch cover. (“0”

    marks indicate the directions of residual unbalance.)

    What if you flywheel does not have the "0" mark.

     

    I've never seen this before but I also haven't read any directions! I have always just put the clutch onto the dowel pins on the flywheel and tightened to specs! I spec thats tight enough:lol: But I've NEVER had one not work or fail and I have replaced many!

  2. Hmm... Mine must have been a conversion or something... IDK I was young.

    The lack of power should be what gives it better mileage, or performance... IDK. What I do know is that I really loved my old one, and would love another like that instead of the one I have :(

     

    Oh well...

    Oh yes... Purchase price: $500 cash

     

    I had an Impreza auto and the only time I put the fuse in was when I want to burn off a set of tires! That's the only power difference, it was able to burn out really good. As far as acceleration and what not it was no different or not noticeably different! Yeah I love the old ones too you should keep an eye out for another!

  3. Only the autos came with the fuse holder under the hood and you have to put a fuse in to make it fwd. Some people say that it does increase gas mileage but I found it doesn't! You are still turning all the same drive gear there is just no power to it! But I'm sure that someone will have a different opinion. If its in the shape you say it is hopefully you didn't pay much for it!

  4. What would you recommend with a 4" lift & 15" Pugs? I don't want to give too much power & I don't want to cut or pound anythjng! But the wider the foot of the tire, the better it'll roll on the sand.:grin:

     

    Well sand is a very dense material and "sucks" up a lot of a vehicles power. So you probably wanna go with a fairly conservative size. Probably something that measures 26-27 inches will work okay But I definately wouldn't go any bigger than that! You are going to notice quite a difference in power with those already so If you are able to measure anything and maybe even mock up than that might work.:banana:

  5. I was thinking a set of Bridgestone Duelers in a 235/70R/15 or do ya' think I can go BIGGER!?:grin:

     

    What size lift are you using? Those are pretty big! You want to remember that it is just a little subaru with like 90 horse! So you want to have enough power to turn them! But I have 205/75/14 on my brat with a 3" lift I could go an inch or so bigger with no mod but I don't have a lot of power! Those measured 26 and 1/4 inches new.:)

  6. Got my D/R tranny today!:banana: Bought the whole car, an 86 GL wagon, for $300.00. Thinking about doin' a complete tranny swap between the two cars, fixin' all the little BS stuff that's wrong with the 86 & puttin' it up for sale. More to come!:D

     

    Sweet You are gonna love the 5 spd d/r! I remember my first swap, what a difference! Keep us posted on your progress! When are you getting the lift?

  7. Im about to buy a used 4" AA lift. I was wondering how people have fixed the camber issues this lift kit produces. It seems to me if i hack the strut spacers shift them over x amount of inches it should fix the problem. I know people have done it and it worked fine. I guess im trying to get a # in inches to shift the parts then reweld.

     

    Thanks

    Orion

     

    I have lifted all of my subarus past and present the same way that sjr does and never had any serious camber issues or much tire wear so I never really saw the need to alter the strut block:-\

  8. Thanks for the info, that's encouraging. Picked up a new one from NAPA today, and it looks just like the OEM axles, which is encouraging. The EMPI units had different inner joints and outer boots. Maybe NAPA is duplicating the exact specs of the factory axles in their manufacturing, which should bode well for longevity, as I've only seen OEM axles fail because of torn boots. It's going in this week, and if I like it, I'm replacing the other side as well. MAYBE my epic axle adventure is soon to be over!

     

    I know that visually the joints are much bigger looking as well, so good luck!

  9. I don't know if it's possible or not,so that's why I'm asking.My brother has a '89 gl wagon that rusted out and fell apart.Mechanically it's great but the suspension fell out of it.He also has a early 90's Legacy[kind of forget exactly the year right now]with an auto tranny.Is it possible,at least reasonably possible to swap the dual range 5 speed into the Legacy and basically swap all the 4 wheel drive parts of the '89 wagon under the Legacy body hooked up to the 2.2 engine.I know people are swapping the EJ22 engines into the older subarus with an adapter so I didn't know if this was possible or not.Ideally he'd like to find a rust free body for his old wagon but where we're at the older subarus are pretty scarce.Anyway.it's probaly a dumb question but I don't know if I don't ask.

     

    Yes its possible to swap the d/r into the legacy but there is quite a few things that need to be done but someone else will know more and where to look for more info!

  10. DUDE! It's been less than 500 miles and I'm hearing a couple of tiny little clicks here and there from one of the new EMPI axles. This is starting to get old.:dead: That makes 7 failed axles in 23,000 miles (really 8 since I expect the other one is not far behind).

     

    One last chance before buying two new axles from Subaru for $600 is the new axles from NAPA that a friend told me he has had good luck with. They're still only like $75 per, so I'm willing to try one and see if it works.

     

    I and many of my friends have used the new ones from NAPA and I haven't seen any fail yet so hopefully its the same for you!!! I just wish they would make new ones for my brat!

  11. I decided against buying the '86 GL wagon, too much frame rot. I did make him an offer of $200.00 for the car(pretty much scrap price) 'cause all I need is the D/R tranny. He said he think about. Meanwhle I'm gonna keep the Loyale & keep lookin' for a 5 spd. D/R tranny. Thanks for your help guys!!!

     

    Ray:cool:

     

    No prob and good decision!

  12. The car runs smooth, has roughly 250K on it,it's a carbed motor(my Loyale is SPFI), it does have a D/R 5 spd. Some of the sub-frame is rotted & I don't know if there's enough good metal left to patch weld it. There's some rust around the wheel wells & the wndshield needs to be sealed (it's currently taped in). The more I think about it, I should just try to get the car for the tranny (which works fine). Anyone know what a working D/R 5 spd. w/ 250k on it is going for? Remember I'm the one who has to pull it! Or, if he doesn't want to part out the tranny, knowing what I've described about the car, what do you think would be a fair offer?

     

    Yeah sounds like parts to me! Too rusty, its hard to patch gthe frame rails so that they will last!:) But it is an ea82 car. I would put the tranny in your loyale but if you can get the whole car thats the way to go, that way you have any and all parts you would need when putting the d/r in your car. It isn't worth that much in that condition I paid 175 for a similar car but make an offer and see what he says.

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