Rally_Blue

So it fired up! I now need to figure out where to splice the other wires in to get the gauges all working and do it without having to take apart the dash to do so. Anyone have wiring diagrams for an 82 brat?

With just those 4 wires ran to power the car will run. To get two of the wires hooked up I needed to gain access to the back of the gauge cluster. The Tach signal can be accessed at the original fuel pump relay. It is bolted to the chassis just above the hood latch pull cable. I tapped into the yellow wire The VSS signal is tapped into at the reed switch behind the speedo. Yellow wire Coolant temp signal is found on the white round plug. Yellow green wire.

Fuel Pump: You only need one wire to run the fuel pump. From the fuel pump relay I ran the fuel pump power wire to a fuse block top to bottom: Fuel Pump Power Constant Switched Start Signal I ran the pump wire down the driver's side along the fuel lines And to the pos side of the pump with the neg side going to ground on the chassis. Pump is a replacement for a EA82 GL It runs! got my switched power a little backwards, switched but off while cranking. One wire change and it fired right up! So, the engine will run with only 3-4 wires spliced in.

I am attempting my first swap and everything is going pretty well except the dreaded wiring job. By utilizing the extensive knowledge here on USMB I hope to create a one stop guide to wiring up an EJ engine into an EA Subaru. My own experience is with an EA81 Brat. So far I have read many threads, looked at several FSMs and read quite a few wiring diagrams along with Numbchux's guide many times. I understand that there are several ways to tackle the wiring on a swap of this nature. What is lacking in the guides and threads is clear pictorial guidelines to hooking up what wires from the EJ to the chassis points in the EA. This is where I am stuck currently. I have gone the "easy" way and purchased a stripped down wiring harness from General Disorder. It is packaged very well and has the appropriate wires labeled so it should be easy right? Well, what fuel pump power wire should be tapped? Where is the fuel pump relay? Should the neutral safety switch be grounded? should it see voltage? if it needs to be tapped into the ecu wires, witch one? These are the questions I hope to answer with this thread. With everyone's help I hope to make future swaps less of a hassle.

Yes actually, I used practically all the EA82 suspension and brake parts. Corssmember, axles, hubs, brake calipers, radius rods, sway bar, and control arms. Not really any pictures to speak of, sorry. I was able to bolt up the EJ power rack also. I had to do some modifications to the crossmember to get everything to fit. I had to cut out a hole for the lines, and clearance the input shaft for the rack. I used EA82 tie rod ends. They fit pretty well, almost all the way in.

I'm currently tackling the swap. I initially purchased a SJR lift for my Brat, wanting to run the lift and EJ swap with the manual rack and had just about everything bolted up before finding out my brake calipers couldn't be "spread" or reset to fit some new pads I had. After looking at the EA82 Takeoffs I had laying around I bit the bullet and ordered a 4x3" block of square tube so I can modify the mounting points on the lift. EA81 on top EA82 on bottom. Along with maintenance items for the brakes, axles and tie rods, I'm planning on running an EJ power rack since they are much easier to find around my area and it should be all mounted in a few days.

That Legacy is a pretty rare car. Subaru sold a very limited amount of Legacy GT wagons, let alone one with a manual. Hope you got a good deal, they command a premium for someone looking for that specific model.

I have a set of both knuckles. Comparing the two, the EA81 struts will not fit the EA82 knuckles, they kinda do but the diameter of the strut is slightly smaller than the hole so I would not feel comfortable using the EA81 struts on a EA82 knuckle. As far as using a EA82 strut, I feel it would be a little tight but fit fine.

Stand alone means aftermarket engine management. The Stinger, Vipic, and Mega Squirt are some examples of stand alone ECUs that have been used on subaru swaps and for power. You mentioned NASIOC, and it is true there is a lot of crap you must filter through to get a kernel of information but here are some threads that would interest you. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2055900 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2252813 Good luck with the project

Lots of information on NASIOC regarding your questions. Some threads can get a little off track at times but there is a good amount of information there if you spend the time to filter though it http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=31

Could you include a Large with my lift kit I just bought? I've also purchased an engine adapter in the past.

There is even an aftermarket EM system available http://www.specialist-components.co.uk/engineering/diesel-engine-management/ These guys did a swap in a VW Vanogan http://www.smallcar.com/index.php?dispatch=news.view&news_id=15#15

That's how I got mine!

Got everything but the rack. It was leaky and the lines were cut anyways.

Thanks for the advice. Is there any benefit using the whole EA82 crossmember? Is it easier to modify to bolt up to the EA81? So far I think I have probably eliminated 100-200 from the bill at the pull a part by not picking up everything. I will be headed back Wed to get the parts I need So far I'm going to get crossmember, front control arms and radius arms, knuckles, and brake parts. Unless Miles can get me the crossmember, control arms and rad arms for cheaper. I think the prices on those parts are around 80bux

So cutting the mounting ears off the EA82 crossmember will reposition the suspension and allow me to run the knuckles on an EA81. Will this allow me to retain use of the EA81 axles? I am currently shying away from EJ or XT front knuckles simply because I dont want to deal with the custom axles and ebrake modifications. I want to stick with a 6 lug as I already have some truck wheels for it. The pick a part wanted $50+ for the crossmember and like 25 for each control arm. I will need radius arms as one on my brat is bent and the EA81 are thicker.

So my Brat build is in full swing, I have an EJ22, D/R 5spd, adapter plate, harness (haven't figured out if I want to keep hacking on the one I got or sending another one to GD for a strip down) I found a 87 GL 2wd wagon at a pick a part near me. It had a power rack (leaky as hell) and most of the front suspension pieces look good enough to restore. I have done extensive reading on the subject but I still have some questions regarding what is needed for what I want and what I can take off and leave at the yard. I was quoted over $300 for almost everything that bolts up to the engine crossmember. I didn't buy anything today since I felt they were nickle and dimeing me to death charging for a lot of separate pieces and not an assembly like some places do. I definitely want the front brakes to replace the EA81 itty bitty caliper and rotors. I plan to lift my brat enough to get a good 27in tire to fit along with a 6lug conversion for the wheels I have. My main question is what do I need bare bones to get a good lifted suspension geometry, better front suspension (I plan to use the EA81 mounts since I have a couple new in box KYB hats) and bigger brakes? Is a swaybar desirable if i am going to lift the car? Can I bolt up the EA81 manual rack to the 82 crossmember? Do I even need the crossmember to run the hubs and brakes? Currently I am thinking of taking the crossmember, front control arms with radius rods and plates, hubs, brakes, and springs.

I always found it easiest to unplug the voltage reduction box in the engine bay. In the engine bay, mounted on the passenger strut tower, you will see a metal box about 3 in long. It has a harness plug going to it. Unplug that and it should disable the DRL. I like it because it takes less than a min and is reversible.

Thank you for those insights. It looks like if all I'm using off this donor car is the SB and wiring harness for the swap, I don't think it is the right car to get. Still after reading several threads on the subject the OBDII ECU and harness is desirable for a swap of this nature. I will keep looking Thanks again.

I have been lurking on the forum for the last several years, so I've read a lot of threads but I have a few questions regarding the best possible donor car to obtain for an EJ swap I plan to do this winter on my 82 Brat. After looking around on local craigslist I found what seems to be a cheap and solid enough donor car. It is a 97 OB with an AT and EJ25D. I know the DOHC 25D will not fit between the frame rails of my EA81 chassis. If I pick this car up I was planning to swap to the 22 heads and make a frenkenmotor out of it for fitment and power reasons. The main concerns I have are: (Whats the best 22 head to use?) Will I be able to utilize everything (manifold, sensors, etc.) form the donor car to use with the 22 heads? I would want to use dual port 22 heads, what years did those come from? Is it better to use OBDI or OBDII heads? Phase I or Phase II? Thanks for the answers I plan on documenting the swap as best as possible and will be sure to post a build thread on it.

I have searched and searched, and can't seem to locate a speedo cable for my 82 BRAT. It snapped on me a couple of weeks ago and I need it fixed. It's a little annoying to not know how fast you are going, and how many miles you've put on the clock.

well I got the Hitachi distributor, turns out I have the ND coil and disty. So I put the new disty in since the old one was done and could not be salvaged, got the hitachi cap and rotor but still have the ND coil I only discovered this after scraping some paint off the coil to reveal the label. Had to modify the coil leads to fit the hitachi disty. I need to start looking for a Hitachi coil now.

Thanks, I just ordered a reman SNAP disty for the car hopefully its the right one