Olnick

I feel your frustration my friend. What happens when it won't start--does it turn over okay but just not fire off? I still think it's got to be something simple and basic (and not belt!) Just can't think of what right now.

I would suggest that the cam and crank marks should be lined up "per the book." In other words, no 180 out. Then look elsewhere for the non-start problem. Retrace your steps as you removed the old belt. Did you disconnect or unplug anything? Cam and crank sensors properly in place? Good luck and let us know how it progresses!

Hey, I thought the old rims looked just fine. But WOW! Great new look (and great price). Congrats! How's the handling--big difference?

Interesting! And thanks for your courtesy, cvlooper, coming back on to let us know.

Get it timed correctly and see what happens. Then go from there. Fortunately you don't have to split the block (OHC and all, ya' know!)

Well now, that's discouraging ain't it? Did you use the right cam & crank marks (not the arrows)? Didn't disturb the cam and crank sensors, did you? Spark plug wires all on? Did it try to fire at all when you cranked it? You know, there's a really simple answer to this. I just don't know what it is right now!

Hmmm, can cam sprockets even be installed incorrectly? It's been a couple of years since I did mine so can't remember the details. My thought would be to pull the belt off and line everything up according to the marks (or if you don't have marks on the belt, you can count teeth). Do you have instructions to go by? If not there's been a lot posted here over the years. Try a search. There's an excellent article from Endwrench that's a great help. Good luck.

Yeah--Kuliouou is home! Kids used to go to Aina Haina Elementary, back when the Ranch House Restaurant was still there! Can't remember if I got a CEL or not. Sometimes it doesn't come on but there can still be a stored code. Just checked with my son and he had a stored code on his '92. If you have a code reader (or try Autozone or some parts store--they'll often read them for free) you could check. Or you could check resistance on the CTS with a multimeter. Haynes manual, page 6-7, has the values you should be seeing. Good luck.

Wow! Looks nice under there, blondy. Is that an EJ25? By the way, WOT means Wide Open Throttle. Good luck with the car.

Thanks, Gloyale. I think it's a potential problem area that we should all be aware of.

Yes, it's down near the DOJ where the axle fits into the transmission. Try cleaning the pins and receptacle on the O2's electrical connector. Good luck.

My CTS thought might be a reach, but here's my logic: The ECU controls engine operation, including amount of fuel. ECU depends on CTS to know operating temp. of engine. ECU will often go to "open loop" if it gets faulty temp. info and this, I think, can usually mean richer fuel mixture. I may be way off base--and I certainly don't advocate throwing money and parts at a problem. But a new CTS cleared up a lot of problems on my '95 Legacy a few years ago and more recently on my son's '92 Legacy. Hopefully others will chime in with suggestions.

One small suggestion--might be wise to remove the IACV and give it a thorough cleaning. Just running cleaner through it may not be enough. Clean the MAF sensor? (Gently spray the fine wires with cleaner.) Check/clean front O2 sensor's electrical connectors. Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor? Good luck--really hope you can help the lady.

G'day, mate. Can't really answer your questions but at least I can keep you company 'til someone else comes along! PCV screws into the right (passenger--oops, over here it's passenger!) side of the intake manifold. After you cleaned it could you shake it and hear it rattle? Did you also clean the rubber tube that leads to it? The PCV is relatively cheap--might be good to throw a new one on anyway. Beyond that, no idea about the excess oil and the smoking. Good luck.

Gloyale, your revelation in this thread . . . http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=809188#post809188 . . . about o-ring failure in the coolant crossover pipe really got me to thinking. Seems like it could help explain at least some of the air getting into the coolant system resulting in overheating. How do you replace the o-rings? Do you have to pull off the intake manifold to get to it? Thanks for any info.

So . . . did you stop the flood? Is the car running okay now?

Sorry if I sounded overly critical, 1-3-2-4. And don't let me scare you away from asking questions in the future. That's pretty much why we're all here, to help each other--and learn! And the "long post count" simply says people are eager to offer a hand. Main thing is you got the help you needed and, hopefully, a properly timed engine. Good luck!

Yes. it is that too!!!

Not meaning to sound harsh here, 1-3-2-4, but does your user name indicate your approach to projects? Before you started did you do any reading or studying about replacing a timing belt on a Subie? There is a ton of wonderfully thorough and helpful information here on USMB and in Endwrench and other articles that address almost every difficulty/concern/frustration that you faced. USMB folks are tremendously pleasant and helpful (as you can see in this thread) but it really helps if you do a little searching and reading before you start a major project. Then ask questions. Just a friendly suggestion. Good luck in the future.

WOW! Thanks Gloyale. That's a real eye opener!

All '95 Legacies had to have the front hooks cut off.

Yeah, isn't it great when such a relatively easy bit of maintenance yields such an obvious improvement? The IACV is a great place to start to fix idle issues. Thanks for posting your success--good reminder for everyone. Oh, and welcome to the board!

Amen!

Vincent--check post #5 in this thread. It worked for me. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=97108 Good luck.

Pssst, Hannah . . . enjoy the quiet. Oh, and welcome aboard!