Olnick

You're kidding, right? Obviously the decision--and the cost--are your choice. But the engine in my '95 Legacy at 127,000 miles is just now getting nicely broken in. (Granted, it's an EJ22!) Good luck whichever way you go!

Golly. I hadn't even considered resale value. Good thinking, G!

Hey, car looks great. So do your photographs! Congrats.

Anyone think it could possibly be the engine coolant temperature sensor? Symptoms sound a bit like when my went bad, but I don't recall whether it threw a code or not. Chime in, please.

Grand feeling, ain't it?!! To donate, go back to the USMB home page, down near the bottom where it says "Community Chest."

There you go, throwing money at a problem again. I'll bet you could fix it for 1/5 the cost.

Amen to that brother john! I faced the same over-tight problem on mine awhile back. Set up the car jack under the 1/2" breaker bar and slowly cranked away--worked like a charm. Use small blocks of wood to make sure the jack is absolutely perpendicular to the breaker bar and adjust as necessary during the process. Good luck.

Sounds like the solenoid may be bad. Might want to remove the starter (it's easy, one bolt and one nut--at least that's how it was on my EJ22) to check the solenoid's plunger action and condition of the contacts. If it's just the contacts that's a cheap and easy fix. Or if you have to, replace starter and/or solenoid with a reconditioned one. Personally I would avoid a chain store rebuilt starter. Check around for an auto-electric shop locally--ask local mechanics who they use. Good luck.

Amen! Ask the kid if you can see his magical engine. Then count the lobes on the timing belt cover.

Touche!

Gentlemen, I don't disagree with you at all. But vast overgeneralizations like "never" just ruffle my feathers!

I wish you would stop making that generalization every time someone mentions an overflow tank, nipper. Mine is so clean you could drink out of it. To clean the tank, remove it from the car and partially fill with warm water and detergent, stuff a small piece of rag in it and shake vigorously. Then take a length of coathanger wire, form a small hook on the end and use it to push the rag into the corners to scrub with. Hey, stop by for a drink sometime!

Is there some reason you are replacing the oil pump? Are you sure your old one is no good? Usually you just have to remove the old pump and check the backing plate screws. Loctite them if they're loose. Then replace the little o-ring and reseal to the block.

Ultra Grey is not anaerobic however Subaru approves it as a substitute for the original sealant, which was anaerobic. Loctite comes in different strengths denoted by color on the packaging. You'll want the blue (medium strength.) But I'm just spouting this stuff from memory and could be off or even wrong. Still suggest that you use the "search" function here on the USMB--there's a treasure trove of facts and helpful hints from the past and can answer all your questions--even those you don't know yet! Good luck and keep us posted on how it goes!

IIRC Permatex Ultra Grey is approved for sealing the oil pump to the block. Also don't forget a new o-ring for the oil pump. Haynes manual does show a water pump gasket and a thermostat gasket too. Get genuine Subaru parts for those--and for the thermostat itself. Check your crank and cam oil seals for leakage. It's a good time to replace them. And the cam shaft o-ring on the left (driver's) side. Check all the timing belt idler pulleys too. The cogged one nearest the water pump is usually the first to go. Doing all this while you've got the front end open is a lot easier than having to go back in later! Good luck!

Gee, john, you're human! So am I. Did almost exactly the same thing and had to backtrack several steps to correct it. Guess the lesson is don't rush, re-read the instructions every once in awhile and stop to mentally review every so often. What a thrill when I finally cranked the engine and it purred. (But am glad I kept my day job!)

Ah, the old saying "search is your friend!" Tons of information on here--got me through my first timing belt change. Here's a link to start: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21715&highlight=timing+belt+endwrench Just go to "search" (up top) and type in timing belt. And do read the Endwrench and other articles referenced--very helpful. Good luck . . . and axe questions!

Yup! Sometimes it's just the little things. Keep up the preventive maintenance and you'll be good for a long time. Congrats!

You may well be right, crash. Would fuel injector cleaner or Techron concentrate help with that?

I've always seen KBB as a tool for dealers. Values are unrealistically high. I like Edmunds. They have what they call TMV (True Market Value) and it seems to reflect the real world market better.

The "bolt" is the valve itself. You may need to soak the threads with some penetrating oil to loosen it. Then use a little anti-seize on the threads of the new one. The pipe is a rubber hose. Suggest you take it off and clean it out inside with brake or carburetor cleaner. Good luck!

By the way, if you need to order Subaru parts you might try our buddy Jason in the parts department at Mike Scarff Subaru--866-528-5282. Nice guy and he always gives us the best prices I can find.

Wise man once said, "Cheaper to go buy alternator than entire car!" You might check around and see if there's an auto electric rebuilder near you, see if local car guys or mechanics can recommend one. I've found that they usually have better quality and prices on starters and alternators than chain stores. Good luck.